Hi, l have purchase a 203A Peugeot , 1952, and l am looking for a mecanic, or someone that knows a bit those, on the Gold Coast, or nearby, thanks.
Peugeot 203 mecanic on the gold coast
- Thread starter JaxonT
- Start date
welcome - you've come to the right place - there's a wealth of experience here for the asking anyway ...
what work does it need?
can't imagine i can be of much use myself being a little further north, but i do have a roll-call going if you would be so kind as to share anything you can of;
Serial No. , Carroserie , Code/s , Type , Photo , Notes , Name , Locality , State and/or Country
for inclusion in
what work does it need?
can't imagine i can be of much use myself being a little further north, but i do have a roll-call going if you would be so kind as to share anything you can of;
Serial No. , Carroserie , Code/s , Type , Photo , Notes , Name , Locality , State and/or Country
for inclusion in
Last edited:
is it one of these recently on the market
( neither of which i have a serial number for ) ?
( neither of which i have a serial number for ) ?- Joined
- Aug 2, 2000
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I'm in Melbourne, can offer advice at least.
Without offending anyone, the bulk of the 203's mechanical design is par for the course for the time.
Any mechanic familiar with working on older cars (from the 203's era), should be able to attend to pretty well any repairs required.
Trouble is these days, is finding a mechanic that wants to work on ANY old car.
Any mechanic familiar with working on older cars (from the 203's era), should be able to attend to pretty well any repairs required.
Trouble is these days, is finding a mechanic that wants to work on ANY old car.
Hi Steven, sorry to reply to you that late, l am very new to this platform, and forgot all about !
I bought the 203 a couple of month ago from a person that had the car for a year who didn’t drive nor registered at all: he bought from a fellow in Brisbane who had it for over 10 years and was part of the Peugeot club in Brisbane.
I join the club for advice as l am very novice in French very old cars. I driven an old 403 back home, in 1979, age 17 !
They told me there is a person that own 3 ,203 on the Gold Coast, but he does travel a lot and hasn’t contacted me yet.
I already had minor work done on the electrical at Woodys.
I live in Broadbeach Waters, on the Gold Coast but can go up to you one day as my sister lives near Cairns.
I recently lost the brakes and discover a leak on one of the front wheels: l had a look only on that wheel, and the rubber on the brake cylinder is cracked and leaking fluid; the other cylinder seals are weary too, and that is one wheel at of 4! My plan is to fix and maintain this project car by doing as much as l can myself, even with little mechanical knowledge l have. I started searching parts online, without buying full cylinder but rubber seals and spring kit, much cheaper. The French or German parts are quite expensive; E bay even more ! I found a kit from Argentina, cheap; cheap part too? I will also have to find all seals for all doors.
The car is a 203 A; l haven’noticed any A model yet? The old rego said 1952, but was sold to me as a 1954 sedan model . The chassis number is 1384.049 : would that mean after August 1954?
The upholstery is like new; the paint job ok for now; no rust on the body, but a lot around the chassis, the motor look and sound good, new carburettor, new radiator, alternator reads 40 W, new exhaust, new fuel pump, no smoke, new clutch, and much easier to use since l found the second gear !!!
I am attaching photos for you, maybe you know the car and it’s past.
Thank you very much for replying to me in the first place and thank you for ready my infos, cheers, Jacques
Attachments
thank you Jacques, very pleased to hear from you!
curious - matching numbers in photos ( ...172 ) vis-a-vis the one you mentioned ( ...049 ) - is that seen below the air cleaner?
but you have the date correct either way , i think.
curious - matching numbers in photos ( ...172 ) vis-a-vis the one you mentioned ( ...049 ) - is that seen below the air cleaner?
but you have the date correct either way , i think.
I thought I first saw this car for sale from Bundaberg, then soon after from Cabarita Beach, all within the last year.
Presently I do not have a 203 In Real Life, so can't really help, but others here could advise on sources of brake parts ( which might not be metric (?)) and suitable rubber , etc.
For relevant content look at posts here from members Alpine, Commerciale, Dano, lo203404, peter munro, Russell Hall, and 20FIVE amongst others ...
Presently I do not have a 203 In Real Life, so can't really help, but others here could advise on sources of brake parts ( which might not be metric (?)) and suitable rubber , etc.
For relevant content look at posts here from members Alpine, Commerciale, Dano, lo203404, peter munro, Russell Hall, and 20FIVE amongst others ...
Having French maybe you should also join up at
http://www.amoureux203-403.com/.
I hope you can sometimes help us with translation ... most Aussies only speak one language (badly).
http://www.amoureux203-403.com/.
I hope you can sometimes help us with translation ... most Aussies only speak one language (badly).
Machine translation is OK for the basic gist, but how much better via someone who knew something of that being discussed - maybe even conversant with technical idiom and jargon, let alone etiquette, the wordplay or jocular?
I suspect 'frogs' may seem offensive to our counterparts in the country of origin anyway.
I suspect 'frogs' may seem offensive to our counterparts in the country of origin anyway.
As you know I have been posting and translating French here for years. I have noticed that Google does a reasonably good job with automotive terms. It gets most right, and there isn't wordplay or joking in service documents. Forums can get much less formal.
The result usually varies with the language. Machine Russian to English leaves a lot to be desired. Some machine translators aren't as capable as Google technically, some are better with idiom and colloquialisms.
The result usually varies with the language. Machine Russian to English leaves a lot to be desired. Some machine translators aren't as capable as Google technically, some are better with idiom and colloquialisms.
Brake cylinder rubbers are standard, non metric, available from any large brake service. The cylinders have probably been sleeved with stainless steel, if not they may benefit from it. Again available at brake services.
I was about to say the same as Russell. I haven't had a car yet (and I've had a couple 
) where I couldn't just wander down to the local brake supplier with the old seals and get them matched up.
Having said that, you have to find the right brake shop, some of them keep sweet FA these days.
) where I couldn't just wander down to the local brake supplier with the old seals and get them matched up.Having said that, you have to find the right brake shop, some of them keep sweet FA these days.
Wayne at Better Brakes Bailey Crescent Southport was very helpful with my 404 brakes .He recognised them straight away when I dropped them on the counter which is always a good sign.I was about to say the same as Russell. I haven't had a car yet (and I've had a couple
Having said that, you have to find the right brake shop, some of them keep sweet FA these days.
"He recognised them straight away when I dropped them on the counter which is always a good sign."
Yes it inspires confidence, doesn't it.
This is not Frog related, but...
Recently I had to replace the charcoal canister purge valve on my partner's Skoda. It's a simple solenoid valve in a vacuum line. It is used to control the flow of air from the charcoal canister to the inlet manifold, controlled by the engine management computer.
It is common enough for them to fail, I have read that often the cause is bits of charcoal dust escaping the charcoal canister into the air flow and jamming the purge valve partly open.
I decided to fit a small fuel filter in the vacuum line between charcoal canister and the valve - just cut the rubber hose and insert the inline filter. I wanted a really small one as it is in a crowded part of the engine bay, so went to a mower shop for a tiny fuel filter. I took the rubber hose (which is a weird shape) in to the shop and said "I want a very small fuel filter to fit this diameter hose."
The man behind the counter looked at it and said "what's it off, a VW or a Skoda?"
Turns out before working for a mower shop, he worked in European car spare parts...
Yes it inspires confidence, doesn't it.
This is not Frog related, but...
Recently I had to replace the charcoal canister purge valve on my partner's Skoda. It's a simple solenoid valve in a vacuum line. It is used to control the flow of air from the charcoal canister to the inlet manifold, controlled by the engine management computer.
It is common enough for them to fail, I have read that often the cause is bits of charcoal dust escaping the charcoal canister into the air flow and jamming the purge valve partly open.
I decided to fit a small fuel filter in the vacuum line between charcoal canister and the valve - just cut the rubber hose and insert the inline filter. I wanted a really small one as it is in a crowded part of the engine bay, so went to a mower shop for a tiny fuel filter. I took the rubber hose (which is a weird shape) in to the shop and said "I want a very small fuel filter to fit this diameter hose."
The man behind the counter looked at it and said "what's it off, a VW or a Skoda?"
Turns out before working for a mower shop, he worked in European car spare parts...
My previous highlight at a spare parts shop was being asked "what's it to to suit" (with fingers hovering over the keyboard), when I went in to pick up a UNIVERSAL 16mm heater tap I'd phoned about earlier.
I bit my tongue and said, "it's universal".
I bit my tongue and said, "it's universal".
Hi Steven
I have a 1954 Peugeot 203, in Townsville Nth Qld. It has recently sprung a
leak out of the nut(17 mm) just above the crank pulley, on what looks like the timing belt cover. It leaks a lot when the engine is on and warmed up.
Do you or anyone else here have any advice on repairng this?
many thanks in advance
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PS
I managed to tighten this nut a little, with a 17 spanner yesterday, but when I came back today with a socket on a 1/2 inch drive, it felt way to delicate to be giving it my all. I did not want to strip it.
Any wisdom on this will be way appreciated