Peugeot 2008 - 1.2Lt - Ownership Feedback

Hi. I am interested in what tyre brand /model other owners have fitted. Mrs Whippets are the original Goodyear Vector 4 Seasons 205-50-R17 89V. These have travelled 43,000kms. I have recently swapped front to back, to share the wear as the fronts have worn on the shoulders more. Our main issue is the loud tyre roar at freeway speeds, I assume mainly due to the blocky tread design. I would say in 5,000km I will be looking for a new set of tyres and highway tread pattern would be suitable. The car hardly ever gets driven offroad, mostly around town and down to Melbourne and back.

I was driving the car on the weekend and thought the level of feedback of surface irregularities was more than I recalled from last time I drove it. The 50 series aspect ratio and also I tend to have 36PSI inflation pressures as well. So I will be looking for low noise, best ride that can be achieve with 50 aspect ratio and wet & dry braking.

I noticed that the earlier 2008's had 195-60-R16 rims and tyres fitted. I would be happier with those.
 
Hi. I am interested in what tyre brand /model other owners have fitted. Mrs Whippets are the original Goodyear Vector 4 Seasons 205-50-R17 89V. These have travelled 43,000kms. I have recently swapped front to back, to share the wear as the fronts have worn on the shoulders more. Our main issue is the loud tyre roar at freeway speeds, I assume mainly due to the blocky tread design. I would say in 5,000km I will be looking for a new set of tyres and highway tread pattern would be suitable. The car hardly ever gets driven offroad, mostly around town and down to Melbourne and back.

I was driving the car on the weekend and thought the level of feedback of surface irregularities was more than I recalled from last time I drove it. The 50 series aspect ratio and also I tend to have 36PSI inflation pressures as well. So I will be looking for low noise, best ride that can be achieve with 50 aspect ratio and wet & dry braking.

I noticed that the earlier 2008's had 195-60-R16 rims and tyres fitted. I would be happier with those.
I had the same experience with the same Goodyears. I’ve replaced them with a non-blocky Bridgestone Ecopia design. Presumably less grippy in the mud-wallowing stakes, but certainly much quieter. What also has disappeared is the scrabble of the Goodyears if you plant the boot on acceleration. Doesn’t do that now. Whatever is the compromise with traction, I haven’t yet noticed any in my situation, although with COVID, haven’t done anything remotely challenging. I’d be interested to see what happens with some more performance-oriented tyre rather than the “eco” branding that I got. I’m happy with my choice, but I suspect handling and driving could be even better if I’d avoided the “eco”. However, there was a 4 for the price of 3 going at the time…. I actually didnt look too hard, but avoiding the blocky tread is the first step. Keep us all informed of your choice.
 
We changed to Michelin PS4 on the advice provided here. Very happy with wet and dry grip as well as a quieter and more comfortable.
 
We changed to Michelin PS4 on the advice provided here. Very happy with wet and dry grip as well as a quieter and more comfortable.
Thanks BarryC and David M, out of interest, what pressures do you inflate the tyres to?

I will let you know my choice when I finally make my purchase.
 
Hi. Hoping 4CVG might comment.

On the Jax website searching for 205-50-R17 89V. I am stuck with the 50 series aspect ratio, so I am not considering the 93 load rating as I am assuming that they might be slightly stiffer and contribute to a slightly rougher ride. Main reason for replacement is the road noise of the factory fit 4 Seasons blocky tread tyres, and ride comfort. Of course I also want them to have good braking performance as well.

The below two selections are middle price range tyres. I have fitted the EfficientGrip (SUV) on the suggestion of 4CVG on a family Toyota RAV4, and they are much better than the factory Yoko Geolanders.

Goodyear Assurance TripleMax 2 is designed to give you the assurance and confidence on the road - Stop faster, drive safer. Jax 4 for 3 offer. $162.50 each

Key Tyre Features​

  • HydroTred Technology offers improved braking performance on wet roads
  • Asymmetric design allows improved handling and steering precision
  • Comfortable and quiet riding tyre

Goodyear EfficientGrip - efficiency is it's middle name. Jax $199 each.

Key Tyre Features​

  • Reduces wet braking distances and enhanced control in all driving conditions
  • Delivers an extremely quiet and comfortable ride
  • Provides enhanced grip, lower rolling resistance and improved fuel efficiency
 
What could go wrong quoting the advertising blurbs
I concur, and you all well know my cynicism of marketing, but I thought I would post what Goodyear say about the differences between their two tyre models, as a starting point.
 
Thanks BarryC and David M, out of interest, what pressures do you inflate the tyres to?

I will let you know my choice when I finally make my purchase.
I use 37 psi all round. The goodyears I replaced were showing under inflation wear while I was using the recommended Peugeot pressures. On the other hand, when I put the new Bridgestones on, I found them all at 40 psi when I checked because……”we always put 40 psi in the tyres”…….. so much for the rocket scientists doing the fitting. The seem to be fine at 37, no I’m hoping for even wear. They’re also non-directional, so I can at least swap the tyres around to even up the wear.
 
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I use 37 psi all round. The goodyears I replaced were showing under inflation wear while I was using the recommended Peugeot pressures. On the other hand, when I put the new Bridgestones on, I found them all at 40 psi when I checked because……”we always put 40 psi in the tyres”…….. so much for the rocket scientists doing the fitting. The seem to be fine at 37, no I’m hoping for even wear. They’re also non-directional, so I can at least swap the tyres around to even up the wear.
 
Curious as to what the timing belt job has cost people? The belt is now supposed to be changed at 90K / 6 years (without tensioner and roller) and then the full kit at 180K /12 years. The latter interval could turn out to exceed the vehicle life for many examples.
 
Curious as to what the timing belt job has cost people? The belt is now supposed to be changed at 90K / 6 years (without tensioner and roller) and then the full kit at 180K /12 years. The latter interval could turn out to exceed the vehicle life for many examples.
With those intervals now scheduled, one might say that the original belt problem has been overcome, given that its likely to be the only major replacement item on the whole engine, and in line with the same type of job on many newer models of other makes.
 
Hello, does anyone on the site have any experience with the 3008 diesel? At present we have a 4007 diesel, which has been fantastic. Also, the rest of our vehicles are also diesel (508 GT, Renault Megane etc), so would like to stay with diesel if possible. Cheers!
 
Hi.

I have been driving the 2008 more freqently of late. I have noticed that when your put the foot down on the throttle, that the engine does a "cough" missfire, then recovers and continues to accelerate. Only seems to do this when a larger throttle input change is demanded. My initial thoughts are that the injected fuel is not matching the increased mass of air from the turbo. It is very like what used to happen with two stage four barrell carbys when the secondarys opened.

I have been putting of purchasing an EBDII reader, maybe I need to do this.

Any thoughts?
 
Hi.

I have been driving the 2008 more freqently of late. I have noticed that when your put the foot down on the throttle, that the engine does a "cough" missfire, then recovers and continues to accelerate. Only seems to do this when a larger throttle input change is demanded. My initial thoughts are that the injected fuel is not matching the increased mass of air from the turbo. It is very like what used to happen with two stage four barrell carbys when the secondarys opened.

I have been putting of purchasing an EBDII reader, maybe I need to do this.

Any thoughts?
Check the cambelt through the oil cap the first hint of failure can be the vvt solenoids starting to block up and causing exactly that driving concern
 
Thanks dmccurtayne. I am going to perform the 45k service, so will be changing engine oil & filter. Maybe I will also remove the VVT solenoid and inspect the gauze for blockage with particles. If I find anything I will post.

I note that my VIN is not included in the publised recall list for the loss of brake booster vacuum.
 
Remember that recalls always have a VIN range and there's never any guarantee a problem is really limited to that VIN range.
Keep in mind that unless you are a registered mechanic, DIY servicing can potentially compromise your warranty status. Doesn't matter how competent you are as a DIYer. Regardless, it's important you use the correct oil here and document what was used.
 
It's most likely a failed plug with a cracked ceramic insulator rather than a coil. Replace them as a set. The service schedule likely advises to change plugs every 30K/24months in any case. If you do take out the suspect plug, check the ceramic near the electrode hasn't broken away and fallen inside. If it has, don't start it, tow it to a dealer.
Interesting. I had a “AL4-like” clunk and bad gear change when accelerating at about 80 km/h coming up out of the Eastlink tunnel. Happened more regularly more recently. Eventually decided it wasn’t my driving technique, but something else. Dealer replicated the problem it a freeway drive and then changed the plugs which were near the service life of around 30K - certainly not “miracle-long-life” plugs. Anyway, the problem has disappeared. At least I know what to look out for, now.
so, I’ve had two problems in 60K - the external mirror temperature sensor and this plugs incident. I’d hope for no problems, but I suppose that’s not too bad. Still love driving the car. Have also replaced the all weather tyres with some Bridgestone “eco” something or other.
Next time (after watching John Cardogan on YouTube), I’ll avoid a tyre with an “eco” prefix, and try some real tyres instead.
 
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