Peugeot 2006 307 Diesel Wagon

[Armidillo]

Thanks for sharing that story Steve - might be a handy bit of intel down the track...

For a bit of perspective, one of my sons and his wife have a Subaru Impreza (not my fault). They are having a recurrence of "Check Engine" fault warnings.

First time it happened, their Subaru dealer told them that the cat was stuffed and needed to be replaced. RRP for the part was $4,500, but since they were nice guys they would only charge $3,000 (plus labour of course). Can't remember if this included new oxy sensors, but the excuse for the exorbitant price was that pretty much the entire exhaust had to be replaced, as the cat was built into it. They went ahead with the genuine part and (to be fair) it did fix the problem - at a price! (NOTE: I wasn't consulted about this, as I don't know anything about Subarus - apart from the one parked in the paddock.)

Three years later it's happening again, and the diagnosis (& price) is the same... However this time he has actually talked to me & his big brother (who also has Subarus). Turns out it's a common issue, & affects Libertys & Outbacks as well as Imprezas. Car is throwing a Catalytic converter fault ? club.liberty.asn.au

Solution (discussed in the above link) is to reprogram the ECU so that the Check Engine light does not show if the problem is worn-out cat - also necessary if a high-flow cat is fiitted. He has now downloaded the DIY diagnostic software, and purchased a diagnostic cable from eBay, so hopefully will start to take some interest in understanding what the problem is, rather than paying a lot of money (which he doesn't have) to make the problem go away...

Cheers

Alec

 

[Steve Turner]

On the way to the Griffith muster (I couldn't take Kermit), the same warning message came on again. It was too late to turn back, which, as it transpired, would have been pointless. I was waiting for the car to go into limp mode, but nothing happened. We're in Griffith, some hundreds of kilometers later, the message didn't come on the following morning and hasn't since. Looks like a faulty sensor. What does that say about the Peugeot dealership's diagnosis?

 

[505604]

Good on ya mate! …

2. Brake (light) switch. This again was a common fault (but not a recall). Turning off engine cleared it, but it would recur during the drive. It was not obvious that the cause was the brake pedal switch, as the symptoms were that ABS, ESP, EBD and cruise control were disabled. Car was still driveable, but obviously not as controllable in an emergency situation (which thankfully didn't occur).

3. Steering pulled to the left. This was not fixed by the dealer. Best they could do was to insist that wheel alignment was correct, and therefore there wasn't a problem. Here is a thread which has a good discussion of the problem: http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/peugeot-forum/98288-308-steering-drift-left-wheels-aligned.html

In our case it was (at least partly) tyre related. I particularly remember it being much worse after new tyres were fitted. Took it back to tyre service and they fixed it - claimed to have just rotated the tyres until they found a combination that went in a straight line.

Cheers

Alec

Hi Alec,

Digging up a very old thread here!

Hopefully the simple question first: do you remember what brand of tyres were fitted which ‘made it much worse’?

With the brake light switch fault, did anything show up on the fault list on the dash display?
I’m asking because 2 days ago, I was driving to Sydney along the Hume, cruise control on, doing the 110 km/h and suddenly the car began slowing down. The cruise control had switched itself off. I couldn’t reactivate it. The dash display for the CC showed CC - - - with the word OFF displayed. When I tried to turn it on, those dashes just blinked a few times and that was it.

I didn’t notice if any of the other things that you mentioned - ABS, etc - were affected, but there was no fault logged on the central dash display.

I rang the dealer who I usually go to when I absolutely have to go to a dealer - Allan McKay in Moss Vale - and one of the service advisors suggested that the only thing that I could try was parking the car and locking it for 15+ minutes and see if that would reset it.

I did that, as I was approaching a service centre, and it worked. The CC has been operational since.

I’m interested in what you think!

Cheers,
Andrew



Sent from my iPhone using aussiefrogs

 

[Armidillo]

Not too sure of the tyres on that occasion (may possibly have been Yoko C-Drive), but I recall insisting on 'W' speed rating, as that was original spec. The same issue drove us mad from new (& it came with Dunlop SP Sport Maxx), and we wasted money on wheel alignments - seriously wasted money, as the local wheel alignment guy suggested by the dealer got it quite wrong one one occasion, causing the front tyres to scrub out quite quickly. That tyre service didn't seem to know about "lazy" tyres .

Re. the brake switch - I remember the chime ("bing") sounding, and I'm sure the main central display warned us very insistently that ABS/ESP were not working. A brake switch used to be a simple thing that activated the brake lights when pressure was applied to the brake pedal. It is obvious that much more is done with that signal in modern cars, but I don't know if the brake switch itself is also more complicated - perhaps yours produced a different (faulty) signal - but maybe the CC went off 'just because" .

Cheers

Alec

 

[simca1100]

search for my old thread about fixing the brake light switch on a 307.
It is a very common fault.
You can replace the switch (it is up behind the glove box) but mine just needed to be cleaned out and reset. When I did mine, a new one was about $150.
They are a multi-model switch, it adjusts to suit your particular model of Pug by adjusting the length of the plunger. This is critical to it working well. Very easy to adjust.

 

[Graelin]

Interesting on tyres. I spent $2,000 trying to fix my Nissan Patrol death wobbles, severe shaking of the steering wheel. my mechanic took the front wheels off and rolled them across the floor, one went left and one went right. They were fighting each other.. A reputable wheel aligner with a good reputation told me that this problem was tyres. No one wants to listen he said. He could get a pile of brand new tyres and some would cause this issue and others from the same pile would fix it. He said he had no idea why but it was the fix.

It turned out one of my new tyres had a separation issue which was not apparent until it wore a flat spot. It took about two years to find this and solve it.

We bought a 307 2,000 petrol five speed two years ago and love it. The only issue is central locking has stopped and won't reset. Key has new battery and works when in the ignition. My mechanic tried a reset and will look at it when he has more time. I find the ride is more compliant than our 308 is this something other Peugeot drivers are finding?

 

[505604]

search for my old thread about fixing the brake light switch on a 307.

I didn’t find your thread (as in one started by you), but I did find a lot of useful information in a thread started by someone else to which you contributed quite a bit.

Thank you for pointing me in that direction.

Andrew