Okay, here's the thing. More Koleos farfiffnuggery

[schlitzaugen]

So changing the oil and the filter I found some problems. LH outer driveshaft boot is split and spraying grease all over the place. RHD lower wishbone rear ball joint is worn (split rubber? - not sure if it's just a boot or some sort of bushing that encapsulates the ball joint, whatever, needs to be changed).

Now, I had a look in the manual but couldn't find anything to say how to do these jobs or if it is even possible. I have found instructions how to remove both the driveshaft and the suspension arm, but nothing about replacing a ball joint or a boot.

I suspect Renault would have you replace the entire driveshaft and the entire lower suspension arm but I imagine these bits won't be cheap so would prefer to replace only the defective parts.

If anyone has any experience or knows how to do these jobs, please illuminate. Where to buy parts would be useful as well.

And another issue that occurred to me while lying on my back under the car on the cold cement of the driveway. Does this thing (diesel engine, I suppose M9R) have a timing chain or a belt? Couldn't find anything in the manual.

PS. But look what I found on the interwebs:

Phew. Thank god (and Renault) I won't have to do that any time soon (hopefully).
Does anyone know why he is inserting that tool in the side of the block when taking off the front pulley? I suspect to immobilise the crank but wonder how that is achieved, maybe pushing against one of the webs?

 

[4cvgordini]

If this is the Nissan X-Trail based Koleos, then a Nissan dealer might be another option (or a mechanic who's familiar with them).

Bonne chance!

 

[schlitzaugen]

Yeah, probably.

Maybe we should merge forums. You know, Renault-Nissan, Jaguar-Ford, Bugatti-Volkswagen.

The engine undertray has "Nissan" molded into it, by the way.

 

[68 404]

The M9R 2.0 diesel in your Koleos is definitely has chain driven cams. Great engines.
Driveshaft boots and balljoints shouldn't be too much of a job to a decent mechanic. The commonality between the Koleos and X Trail would mean parts would be easily sourced. Even a place like Pedders would be able to do it.

Dave

 

[schlitzaugen]

Thanks, '404, I figured that one out and posted the video above just in case I need to find it later. Maybe I should just download the video.

Regarding the other parts I just had a quick search and it seems the driveshaft boot cross references with Nissan. Called local Nissan dealer, they can get it but they have to order from Melvegas, and want almost 100 bucks for it. Nissan doesn't recognise the part number for the rear lower arm bush (it is a rubber bush that thingamajiggy). Number is correct though, and it's in fact a Nissan number but may be specific to the EU market.

Here's the numbers just in case:

d'shaft boot C9241JA11A
suspension arm bush (front suspension, lower arm, rear bush) 54570 AX600

Both available here in numerous manufacturer options including OEM, for a fraction of the cost (not sure about postage but we'll find out soon):

https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/

 

[Fireblade]

I find Spareto.com one of the better suppliers - they do not charge VAT on au purchases and have good shipping rates starting from 20 euro for courier service. I ordered ignition coils for my BMW motorbike the same day I ordered a service kit from Perth (to VIC) and the both arrived the same day (1 week later).

They have your boots:

https://spareto.com/products?utf8=✓&keywords=C9241JA11A

 

[85Fuego]

If you are buying boots and are expecting to keep the bus, buy all the drive-line in question.
If one boot has gone then do both ends of the shaft whilst it's out.

 

[schlitzaugen]

Yeah, I noticed spareto too, will have a look, thank you for the info.

True, I should order both boots. Or at least all the bushings. We'll see. Kinda not looking forward to doing the job to be honest so am inclined to half arse it. Once in there I may regret it, but you know what they say. Thou shalt not half arse tomorrow that which you can totally arse today.

 

[Fordman]

Does anyone know why he is inserting that tool in the side of the block when taking off the front pulley? I suspect to immobilise the crank bu wonder how that is achieved, maybe pushing against one of the webs?

That will be exactly what he is doing - locking the crankshaft at TDC. Very accurate TDC location.
Very similar on my Megane Scenic 2.0 litre petrol with cam belt replacement.
There is a 8mm groove machined into a crank web which runs very close to the block in that area. I just used a 8mm bright steel rod about 150mm long, as shown in the photo. You'll note a black texta mark around the rod to indicate depth is correct.
It is only used as a locating pin, not strong enough to hold against the tightening torque of the harmonic balancer bolt, I used another holding method to loosen the bolt just enough that I could still rotate the crank to get the locating pin inserted before completely undoing the bolt, vice versa for assembly.

 

[driven]

Don't stuff around with dealers, go to guys that do these repairs for a living
Driveshaft Repairs
They will have boots to suit

 

[jo proffi]

Does anyone know why he is inserting that tool in the side of the block when taking off the front pulley? I suspect to immobilise the crank bu wonder how that is achieved, maybe pushing against one of the webs?

On the fuego, one of the crank counterweights had a neat slit/hole in it which aligned with the hole in the block. It was this slit that the pin slipped into
I assume it is the same system.
I cant imagine any damage being done to the crank by using this as a holding device, but I can well see the alloy block suffering should too much force be exerted. If the pin were to bend or worse, snap off you'd be in all types of bother.
Jo

 

[schlitzaugen]

Yeah, I suspect they use a bolt/threaded implement to avoid the possibility of any movement with bad consequences like that. Clever anyway. Block the crank because that is what you are applying torque to rather than rely on the timing belt/chain to hold because you pinned the camshaft gears. I have a little gizmo I made for my Renaults in the past that locked the flywheel for the same effect. I think the 205 has a hole in the block behind the flywheel for the same reason.