Mystery front end knock (clunk) 306

Dunno if you have the same mac-struts like my old 505 or was it the 504 ? It had a serious clunk on the left - turned out to be a monster steel washer that was moulded into the top mounting rubber that had escaped it's home and every now and a gain it would pop out and jamb into the spring.
Bob
 
N5?
My N5 306 XSi cracked the body where the engine mount was attached, and made this type of clunk when turning through table drains and driveway entrances. The only way you could see it was to completely remove the engine mount.

I found someone to weld it up as I couldn’t do it myself.
All 2.0L N5's break there. I had Colliers weld mine up.

Not to say that this is the cause of your knock though. My GTI6 would knock on one particular corner - a slowish, downhill, left hand corner - when pushed a bit. Never did find the cause or solution.

Cheers

Justin
 
Reviving this. I've now been through the whole front end. New drop links. New ARB bushings. Lower control arms/ball joints. Steering tie rod ends. And new strut tops and bearings, new NOS made in France front dampers. The car drives beautifully now. Feels right on the money. In combo with the fresh rear beam last year it's basically a midlife resto, suspension wise.

It still creaks/cracks. Basically, I think it's now a quirk of the car. Top Engine mount is ok too. Completely stumped.

And my AC condenser has now sprung a leak... Back to the workshop!

I dunno why anyone would want a new car, you just don't have this amount of fun.
 
Have you checked the gearbox mount ? I would suspect it's some sort of engine/g'box movement. You could grab the engine and give it a vigorous shake about. Exhaust ?
 
Have you checked the gearbox mount ? I would suspect it's some sort of engine/g'box movement. You could grab the engine and give it a vigorous shake about. Exhaust ?
I have done the old grab the head of the motor and pushed and pulled, it's solid. Nothing undue at all. The only real clue is that I can feel the "clunk" through the wheel when it happens.
 
Have you had a look at the springs? Might have broken the last coil on one of them right at the top? Not that easy to see. Might be able to replicate if you turn the wheel to the same lock where it usually happens and start bouncing up and down on the car.
 
But I'm getting a clunk... It's only ever one clunk when turning into a drive or a sharp low speed turn. Left and right. Particularly noticeable when turning into a steeper than usual drive. It feels like something binding and then releasing.
Adjustable height steering column universal joints could be binding, mine have noticeable play that could be mistaken for a knock.
Or the head or tip of bolt holding universal joint to spline could be rubbing on power steering pipe as it rotates.
 
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Have you had a look at the springs? Might have broken the last coil on one of them right at the top? Not that easy to see. Might be able to replicate if you turn the wheel to the same lock where it usually happens and start bouncing up and down on the car.
Well completely replacing the dampers and top mounts meant the springs were inspected and most definitely in one continuous coil.
 
Adjustable height steering column universal joints could be binding, mine have noticeable play that could be mistaken for a knock.
Or the head or tip of bolt holding universal joint to spline could be rubbing on power steering pipe as it rotates.
Interesting, might have to check that. I had a GTi 6 with that issue, had forgotten about it!
 
Ball joints come in two sizes 16mm and 18mm. That is the taper part that ensures a snug fit. Given newish control arms I would be double checking you don’t have a 16mm ball joint in a 18mm hole.
 
^ Good thinking. ! Never underestimate the ability of parts suppliers to stuff up !
 
Ball joints come in two sizes 16mm and 18mm. That is the taper part that ensures a snug fit. Given newish control arms I would be double checking you don’t have a 16mm ball joint in a 18mm hole.
If it was this, surely normal testing for movement would at least show that something was off with the ball joint. Currently there's zero play in anything.
 
If it was this, surely normal testing for movement would at least show that something was off with the ball joint. Currently there's zero play in anything.
If they are tightened down it’s unlikely you can get enough force to make them move. Dynamic forces will apply greater force especially in extreme conditions.
Easy to check loosen nuts jack up tapers should still be solid and have no movement, They should be difficult to extract and need a decent wack or a lot of force to make them let go. Would also explain tyre wear.
 
If they are tightened down it’s unlikely you can get enough force to make them move. Dynamic forces will apply greater force especially in extreme conditions.
Easy to check loosen nuts jack up tapers should still be solid and have no movement, They should be difficult to extract and need a decent wack or a lot of force to make them let go. Would also explain tyre wear.
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Apologies 306 are a parallel pin with a bolt retaining through the side groove so unlikely to be the issue.
 
After going through the front end and replacing almost everything I actually think its something else entirely. I'm almost starting to wonder if it's the loose check strap in the drivers door (insert facepalm gif) I dunno! The little XSi is driving really well - tight, well damped, no bounciness. Great turn in, even better when the rear steer gets involved... Just an annoying "clunk" every now and then.
 
There was an urban myth of a new car being returned to the dealer because of a rattle that turned out to be boiled lollies in the ashtray.
😀
 
You need to have a friend drive the car and strap yourself to the bonnet and listen for the clunk.

More seriously, is it possible someone drives the car and you listen outside? If it does it when you go through a gutter that shouldn't be so hard. It would at least clarify if it's on the left, right, front or back.
 
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