Sounds a lot like control arm bushes. Have you checked if there is any forward and backward movement on the wheel.
All 2.0L N5's break there. I had Colliers weld mine up.N5?
My N5 306 XSi cracked the body where the engine mount was attached, and made this type of clunk when turning through table drains and driveway entrances. The only way you could see it was to completely remove the engine mount.
I found someone to weld it up as I couldn’t do it myself.
I have done the old grab the head of the motor and pushed and pulled, it's solid. Nothing undue at all. The only real clue is that I can feel the "clunk" through the wheel when it happens.Have you checked the gearbox mount ? I would suspect it's some sort of engine/g'box movement. You could grab the engine and give it a vigorous shake about. Exhaust ?
Adjustable height steering column universal joints could be binding, mine have noticeable play that could be mistaken for a knock.But I'm getting a clunk... It's only ever one clunk when turning into a drive or a sharp low speed turn. Left and right. Particularly noticeable when turning into a steeper than usual drive. It feels like something binding and then releasing.
Well completely replacing the dampers and top mounts meant the springs were inspected and most definitely in one continuous coil.Have you had a look at the springs? Might have broken the last coil on one of them right at the top? Not that easy to see. Might be able to replicate if you turn the wheel to the same lock where it usually happens and start bouncing up and down on the car.
Interesting, might have to check that. I had a GTi 6 with that issue, had forgotten about it!Adjustable height steering column universal joints could be binding, mine have noticeable play that could be mistaken for a knock.
Or the head or tip of bolt holding universal joint to spline could be rubbing on power steering pipe as it rotates.
If it was this, surely normal testing for movement would at least show that something was off with the ball joint. Currently there's zero play in anything.Ball joints come in two sizes 16mm and 18mm. That is the taper part that ensures a snug fit. Given newish control arms I would be double checking you don’t have a 16mm ball joint in a 18mm hole.
If they are tightened down it’s unlikely you can get enough force to make them move. Dynamic forces will apply greater force especially in extreme conditions.If it was this, surely normal testing for movement would at least show that something was off with the ball joint. Currently there's zero play in anything.
If they are tightened down it’s unlikely you can get enough force to make them move. Dynamic forces will apply greater force especially in extreme conditions.
Easy to check loosen nuts jack up tapers should still be solid and have no movement, They should be difficult to extract and need a decent wack or a lot of force to make them let go. Would also explain tyre wear.