Thanks Schitz
I scanned all the pages but in the rush I uploaded page #1 twice, I have fixed it and uploaded the 3rd page to complete the explanation
My R12 POS Arrived!
- Thread starter Bowie
- Start date
I scanned all the pages but in the rush I uploaded page #1 twice, I have fixed it and uploaded the 3rd page to complete the explanation
Tightening torque is 4 m.daN
Taadaaa!
Happy with those Supercheap colours I picked out, going to look a treat!
Unsure if I want to paint the entire rear beem green… I might mix it up and green the control arms in the rear, they are kinda low, we’ll see.
Oh! And someone mentioned the perfect name for this thing now, I might even christen a new thread for the time while this place remains if I get some more work done. It’s more to me now then a POS, and with aspiration, I think I shall call it a “Gornearly”
Last edited:
How about Bowie and his technicoloured carView attachment 138886
Taadaaa!
Happy with those Supercheap colours I picked out, going to look a treat!
Unsure if I want to paint the entire rear been green… I might mix it up and green the control arms in the rear, they are kinda low, we’ll see.
Oh! And someone mentioned the perfect name for this thing now, I might even christen a new thread for the time while this place remains if I get some more work done. It’s more to me now then a POS, and with aspiration, I think I shall call it a “Gornearly”
Nah the car will still be white, the best white, Alpine White.
The rest of it however
I can't help but think of suspension compents as undergerments. And who doesn't like novelty nickers and socks!
The rest of it however
I can't help but think of suspension compents as undergerments. And who doesn't like novelty nickers and socks!
My R10 Gordini supension will be "Bean Stalk" almost Kermie with yellow springs and red Konis. All under chassis is/and will be mid-grey industrial. Nice choise Dan.View attachment 138886
Taadaaa!
Happy with those Supercheap colours I picked out, going to look a treat!
Unsure if I want to paint the entire rear beem green… I might mix it up and green the control arms in the rear, they are kinda low, we’ll see.
Oh! And someone mentioned the perfect name for this thing now, I might even christen a new thread for the time while this place remains if I get some more work done. It’s more to me now then a POS, and with aspiration, I think I shall call it a “Gornearly”
Oooooh I like the mid grey idea, that would make everything stand out noicely!
And yes I feel the Koni red sort of decides the rest of the hue, and tha's ok
Hehehehe! Well done. Nice colours.
I would like some sort of colour underneath that would highlight leaks of any kind.
I would like some sort of colour underneath that would highlight leaks of any kind.
Bushes are dumb!
Which one of you warned me about cracking the bush housing. I did it twice
photos.app.goo.gl
photos.app.goo.gl
Oh well, something else to practice welding on.
Shiny new bush, broken crappy arms.
#fail.
Also I thought the upper control arm bushes were the same as the lower.. They certainly are not.. I'm sure I had a couple here...
#more fail.
Which one of you warned me about cracking the bush housing. I did it twice
New item by Dan Boads
photos.app.goo.gl
New item by Dan Boads
photos.app.goo.gl
Oh well, something else to practice welding on.
Shiny new bush, broken crappy arms.
#fail.
Also I thought the upper control arm bushes were the same as the lower.. They certainly are not.. I'm sure I had a couple here...
#more fail.
Did you crack the wishbone putting in the new bush or extracting the old bush?
I have never seen a wishbone crack there, I have managed to crush the wishbone getting out old bushes before I made up an extraction tool.
Cracked them putting the new bushes in.
To be fair I don’t think it was cracked prior, but it was covered in paint after all.
Tell me about this tool? I took plugs from a press and used them on a vice with a big bar over the handle. I was able to get the first ones in no trouble, not sure what happened to the second arm.
To be fair I don’t think it was cracked prior, but it was covered in paint after all.
Tell me about this tool? I took plugs from a press and used them on a vice with a big bar over the handle. I was able to get the first ones in no trouble, not sure what happened to the second arm.
Are the new bushes slightly bigger in diameter than the old bushes? Its the only thing that I can think of that would crack the wishbones like that.
They weren't but, and the other arm was fine. I think these were left overs from my Yellow 12 and the owner was collecting bits from at least the late 80's. Does the rubber have a tendency to swell or shrink if left to the elements? there was a bit of surface rust I scratched away, coupled with removing the over spray from the inner of the arms, perhaps a combination of both left me with to much girth? "shrugs"
I think it's time I just drop some coin on PTFE lined M8 / M10 rose joints and do this properly.
I was looking at the Radical SR3's control arms at the rear again, guaranteed this sees more weight and force then the 12 ever does or would. Oh and their manual suggests they (rose joints) get changed every 80hours. That would be a real 3-4yrs for me.
Time to fkn weld Dan, It's Christmas.
I think it's time I just drop some coin on PTFE lined M8 / M10 rose joints and do this properly.
I was looking at the Radical SR3's control arms at the rear again, guaranteed this sees more weight and force then the 12 ever does or would. Oh and their manual suggests they (rose joints) get changed every 80hours. That would be a real 3-4yrs for me.
Time to fkn weld Dan, It's Christmas.
Attachments
Last edited:
I don't know can't offer an explanation.
Dan, that large "crack" going along the the tube welded in the arm is not a crack. It is there from factory. The "tube" they use is just a piece of flat steel rolled into a cylinder. I would be more worried about the "welds". Which by the way, are not welds. The "tube" is brazed on the arm.
Key to successful bushing insertion is pressing against the end of the "tube" not against the arm around the tube. Pressing against the arm will easily rip off the brazing. I see your paint is cracked around there too, so I would suggest you take that nice shiny paint off and inspect very carefully for cracks in the brazing.
You can try to weld those "tubes" on, but I think between the factory brazing (welding over brazing is not easy they say) and heat soak of the welding process (distortion of everything everywhere) you're fighting an uphill battle.
I would advise you take it somewhere in a jig that would keep the arm as it is supposed to be and ask some well seasoned old timer to braze or weld those things for you.
Key to successful bushing insertion is pressing against the end of the "tube" not against the arm around the tube. Pressing against the arm will easily rip off the brazing. I see your paint is cracked around there too, so I would suggest you take that nice shiny paint off and inspect very carefully for cracks in the brazing.
You can try to weld those "tubes" on, but I think between the factory brazing (welding over brazing is not easy they say) and heat soak of the welding process (distortion of everything everywhere) you're fighting an uphill battle.
I would advise you take it somewhere in a jig that would keep the arm as it is supposed to be and ask some well seasoned old timer to braze or weld those things for you.
Bowie, I note you keep referring to welding as your go to solution. FYI, Brabham, Lotus F1 and numerous Le mans winning sports car chassis were all steel tube with Nickel Bronze, brazed joints. Into the 1980's, 90's and even to this day many of the suspension arms on sports prototypes sports sedans and some Radicals are brazed with Nickel Bronze.
Maybe learn to braze before buying an expensive welder. The "oxy shifter" may also minimise those impact injuries you occasionally suffer.
As to fitting bushes into those pressed steel arms, I generally use some anti seize on reassembly, partly so they slide in easily but mostly so they are easy to press out again if required. I also chuck the bushes in the freezer for a couple of hours and warm the arm with a heat gun to minimise any stress in the assembly process.
I also seem to recall that I suggested rose joints about 2 years ago when you were asking for advice on suspension.
Maybe learn to braze before buying an expensive welder. The "oxy shifter" may also minimise those impact injuries you occasionally suffer.
As to fitting bushes into those pressed steel arms, I generally use some anti seize on reassembly, partly so they slide in easily but mostly so they are easy to press out again if required. I also chuck the bushes in the freezer for a couple of hours and warm the arm with a heat gun to minimise any stress in the assembly process.
I also seem to recall that I suggested rose joints about 2 years ago when you were asking for advice on suspension.