My new challenge - 1964 ID19F Safari

My God, that blue has such an imposing presence.

Fuse 1 feeds:
ignition switch
park lamps switch
stop lamp switch
feed for courtesy lamps

The easiest way to test is an automotive circuit breaker, no bigger than 15 amp for this circuit. Disconnect the battery. Insert or clip the CB in place of the fuse. Reconnect the battery, all the switches off. Then just check each circuit one at a time. When you trip the breaker, you've found the circuit giving heartburn. It could be, but I'm doubting it's your ignition switch. That was just the symptom that announced itself.

Edit: I read a bit more carefully, you said the second fuse blew immediately. Were either of the front doors or the liftgate open when this happened?
 
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The coil got to 60 degrees, but no issues. The dwell adjustment doesn’t seem to have had any noticeable impact on the coil temp - 50+ degrees seems to be ‘normal’…
Congratulations on your maiden voyage Sven. Any trip.getting home under your own steam is a good one!
When I bought my DS I got an unregistered vehicle permit, chucked in some petrol, did 5 kms under it's own power and 90 kms on the back of a truck.🙄
I was being a little ambitious, even the seller didn't know how long it had been off the road for and the "big red light of doom" came on, along with the temperature light.
Turned out the radiator was blocked solid due red and green coolant being mixed in its deep dark past.🤦‍♂️

I did read on an American Mopar site that it isn't unusual for standard oil filled ignition coils to reach 200F in normal service.
That's over 90C so probably not much point in losing sleep over 60C?
Mine's a third nose but it gets pretty hot under the bonnet, I reckon 60C would probably be close to the ambient temp in there anyway?
 
My God, that blue has such an imposing presence.

Fuse 1 feeds:
ignition switch
park lamps switch
stop lamp switch
feed for courtesy lamps

The easiest way to test is an automotive circuit breaker, no bigger than 15 amp for this circuit. Disconnect the battery. Insert or clip the CB in place of the fuse. Reconnect the battery, all the switches off. Then just check each circuit one at a time. When you trip the breaker, you've found the circuit giving heartburn. It could be, but I'm doubting it's your ignition switch. That was just the symptom that announced itself.

Edit: I read a bit more carefully, you said the second fuse blew immediately. Were either of the front doors or the liftgate open when this happened?
Thanks Bill for the ‘action plan’ - I will buy a breaker and play around. The rear gate was open but has no light switch - so that won’t be it, but yes, the passenger door was definitely open when we played around. The second fuse was a spare. I couldn’t even get it into the holder (I think ignition was still on) and it zapped me and blew… 😬. However, the initial fuse blew while we were driving… with all the doors shut 😂.

A few more action shots while I am typing ; from Lee’s SM who followed me. If you look closely… had to wear my jacket with elbow patches - proper Citroen driver attire 😄!

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Thanks Bill for the ‘action plan’ - I will buy a breaker and play around. The rear gate was open but has no light switch - so that won’t be it, but yes, the passenger door was definitely open when we played around. The second fuse was a spare. I couldn’t even get it into the holder (I think ignition was still on) and it zapped me and blew… 😬. However, the initial fuse blew while we were driving… with all the doors shut 😂.

A few more action shots while I am typing ; from Lee’s SM who followed me. If you look closely… had to wear my jacket with elbow patches - proper Citroen driver attire 😄!

View attachment 139080View attachment 139081View attachment 139082View attachment 139083View attachment 139084
Might be worth looking at your brake light bulbs?
Couple of times in other cars I've had one blow and they've managed to short to earth inside the bulb in the process.

I'll have to get me one of them jackets (ready for winter).😉
 
Alrighty, it seems it's either your stop lamps or, as you mentioned your ignition switch. There is the possibility that the N7 powering your courtesy lamps shorted to ground somehow. That's going to be the difficult one to check. If you can, disconnect the connection at front/rear harness. It'll be the black one, just behind your glove box. You can also disconnect circuit 7 from each of the 3 switches (ignition, stop, and park lamps) one at a time. Now that I think of it, didn't the ignition switch have a faulty back on it?
 
Bill… the fuses are all 30A, so shouldn’t the breaker also be 30A, not 15A?
I just thought about the brake light bulb theory, that would only be a possibility if someone had a foot on the brake when you tried replacing the fuse.
 
I just thought about the brake light bulb theory, that would only be a possibility if someone had a foot on the brake when you tried replacing the fuse.
Not necessarily. Your theory would apply with a faulty bulb shorting to ground with the brakes applied. I would check the bulb sockets.
 
Not necessarily. Your theory would apply with a faulty bulb shorting to ground with the brakes applied. I would check the bulb sockets.
Yes, but Sven said he his spare fuse blew as he was inserting it. So unless the brake light circuit was energised via someone else having a foot on the brake "pedal"; it shouldn't have blown the new fuse until Sven put his foot on the brake.
 
Yes, but Sven said he his spare fuse blew as he was inserting it. So unless the brake light circuit was energised via someone else having a foot on the brake "pedal"; it shouldn't have blown the new fuse until Sven put his foot on the brake.
Yah, you're right. Someone would need to be in the driver's seat applying the pedal while Sven is inserting the fuse. Unless the switch is stuck on. Not overly likely.
 
Yah, you're right. Someone would need to be in the driver's seat applying the pedal while Sven is inserting the fuse. Unless the switch is stuck on. Not overly likely.
I reckon if he had a shorted bulb and a faulty brake switch (stuck on) at the same time he should probably buy a lotto ticket.😄

It's really leaning towards (assuming the parkers weren't switched on), the ignition switch or the dome light?
 
I reckon if he had a shorted bulb and a faulty brake switch (stuck on) at the same time he should probably buy a lotto ticket.😄

It's really leaning towards (assuming the parkers weren't switched on), the ignition switch or the dome light?
Possibly the dome light. The wiring runs up the B post on your passenger side into the roof rail, then around the back of the lift gate, and on towards the driver's courtesy lamp. If at any point circuit 7 got pinched, there will be a short. That was why, when I mentioned disconnecting 7 from the switches to check, that one will the most difficult. Sven will need to disconnect the wire marked in black at the junction for the main-to-rear harness, which is behind the glovebox. The reason I'm wondering this is the door and dash switches switch ground, not power. All 3 lamps have 12V unswitched going to them.
 
The reason I'm wondering this is the door and dash switches switch ground, not power. All 3 lamps have 12V unswitched going to them.
Of course, I didn't think of the live circuit.
Last thing I recently replaced door switches on was my F100, it completes the + circuit at the door/dash switches.
Now that I'm thinking about it, remove the roof lamp sockets first. One of those screws may be nicking a power wire.
I was in the middle of typing the same thing.😄
 
Thanks for thinking through the potential causes… won’t get to it before the weekend now that work gets in the way again, but I am sure it won’t be too hard to find and then hopefully fix. Interior lights is a good guess…

Stand by!!! 👍
 
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