You could use a 30mm hole saw, weld a plate with the nut in position then weld the hole up again.
My new challenge - 1964 ID19F Safari
- Thread starter bleudanube
- Start date
Time for an update after a few weeks of Sunday fiddling. Finished the rear left corner and have started on the final area, the front left sill and floor.
The rear came up ok, it was after all a tad easier than the right hand rear.
The front floor and sill area needs the most work of all - foot rest panel, seat panel, inner and both outer sills, the whole jacking point with inner strengthening bracket, floor section and finally the strengthening plate...
So over the past weekends I replaced a section of the seat floor and the foot rest panel. Started with a cardboard template and then made up the panels and welded them in place.
Then onto the inner sill and the jacking point bracket. Welding the sill in from the inside meant less grinding for once... phew.
A few more weeks and it should be finished.
Sven
The rear came up ok, it was after all a tad easier than the right hand rear.
The front floor and sill area needs the most work of all - foot rest panel, seat panel, inner and both outer sills, the whole jacking point with inner strengthening bracket, floor section and finally the strengthening plate...
So over the past weekends I replaced a section of the seat floor and the foot rest panel. Started with a cardboard template and then made up the panels and welded them in place.
Then onto the inner sill and the jacking point bracket. Welding the sill in from the inside meant less grinding for once... phew.
A few more weeks and it should be finished.
Sven
So close! I can see the end in sight!
After two days of solid work I have a floor again - woohoo! Finished the jacking point, the internal bracket took a bit of persuading to get the fit right... too many wonky angles to battle.
Then the inner and outer outer sill were reasonably straight forward, cut the holes for the jacking stand et al with a die grinder. Still need to tidy up all the welds - next weekend job. There is still a lot of grinding left...
Then the final masterpiece - the remaining floor panel. It fit like a glove and looks fantastic. It is such a relief to end up at this point after over a year of fiddling with the car. I am estimating that I have spent probably 400hrs on the chassis to date.
There are a few small areas to finish, then onto the filler work to tidy up some of the welded areas that will be visible and then seam sealing and underbody protection.
After two days of solid work I have a floor again - woohoo! Finished the jacking point, the internal bracket took a bit of persuading to get the fit right... too many wonky angles to battle.
Then the inner and outer outer sill were reasonably straight forward, cut the holes for the jacking stand et al with a die grinder. Still need to tidy up all the welds - next weekend job. There is still a lot of grinding left...
Then the final masterpiece - the remaining floor panel. It fit like a glove and looks fantastic. It is such a relief to end up at this point after over a year of fiddling with the car. I am estimating that I have spent probably 400hrs on the chassis to date.
There are a few small areas to finish, then onto the filler work to tidy up some of the welded areas that will be visible and then seam sealing and underbody protection.
Wow. What an inspiration, Sven.
Finally! After months of cutting, welding and grinding the heavy lifting on the chassis has been completed! What a relief. Thought I never get there...
The floor looks really good, especially after tidying up the last of the underbody remnants.
So I started on the next job: some of the areas where I welded in panels using the lap joint method I need to use some filler to smooth out the joins. Even though it will all be covered by carpets or vinyl - it needs to look right.
Also started using seam sealer on some of the joins. Using being Teroson caulking sealer and then use a small brush to level it out and make it look a bit like the tar-like stuff the French used in 1964.
Also thought it might be quite cute to put a few before and after shots up: here the jacking point before (or what was left of it) and after.
Bit of a difference ...
Sven
The floor looks really good, especially after tidying up the last of the underbody remnants.
So I started on the next job: some of the areas where I welded in panels using the lap joint method I need to use some filler to smooth out the joins. Even though it will all be covered by carpets or vinyl - it needs to look right.
Also started using seam sealer on some of the joins. Using being Teroson caulking sealer and then use a small brush to level it out and make it look a bit like the tar-like stuff the French used in 1964.
Also thought it might be quite cute to put a few before and after shots up: here the jacking point before (or what was left of it) and after.
Bit of a difference ...
Sven
Another before and after - this time the front floor. Here what it looked like before: in some areas I had four layers of “floors” to cut out.
A little better now:
Rewarding....
Sven
A little better now:
Rewarding....
Sven
After over a year of toiling, the chassis is nearing the end and will soon be ready for painting. I tidied most of the welded joins with a thin skim of filler and then prepared the floor for the application of the stone guard.
I also finished off the last small bits and pieces like the remaining seal holder sections and also welded in decent support plates for the intertia seatbelt reels for the front seats.
After scuffing the whole floor, prepsol and masking up the chassis, I was finally ready to apply the stone guard - tested it first on a large piece of paper to make sure I got the gun set up right. It was very easy to apply and it laid down well. I used up two cans but finished 90% of the floor. A third one should be sufficient after the chassis is flipped over to finish the other side.
Very happy with the result. Looks almost professional!
While the whole thing was drying, I cleaned out all the sections I cut out over the past year and replaced... they took up an area of about 1.5 x 2m - a lot of rust...
Finally a rewarding step... very happy with it.
Sven
I also finished off the last small bits and pieces like the remaining seal holder sections and also welded in decent support plates for the intertia seatbelt reels for the front seats.
After scuffing the whole floor, prepsol and masking up the chassis, I was finally ready to apply the stone guard - tested it first on a large piece of paper to make sure I got the gun set up right. It was very easy to apply and it laid down well. I used up two cans but finished 90% of the floor. A third one should be sufficient after the chassis is flipped over to finish the other side.
Very happy with the result. Looks almost professional!
While the whole thing was drying, I cleaned out all the sections I cut out over the past year and replaced... they took up an area of about 1.5 x 2m - a lot of rust...
Finally a rewarding step... very happy with it.
Sven
Is it just me or has anyone got the same issue: I upload the photos, but many times they are not visible like in the photo (hopefully visible)...
Am I doing anything wrong when uploading? Too big a file, too many photos?
Anyone any ideas how to fix it that everyone can see all photos all the time?
Am I doing anything wrong when uploading? Too big a file, too many photos?
Anyone any ideas how to fix it that everyone can see all photos all the time?
The new forum software seems to be a bit variable on photos. I use Firefox and Chrome browsers and I think Firefox is doing better. I have been just adding files using the 'paperclip' Attach files button below.
Cheers, Ken
Cheers, Ken
Yep, that’s the same way I have been doing it and clicking ‘full image’... maybe adding them as an attachment will do better?
Let’s see if that does any better...
Let’s see if that does any better...
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Absolutley amazing ..... Thanks for documenting this for us all to see 
excellent work cant wait to see the final product BTW what will your next project be??
Geez, next project? That will be years away. It took me over a year of weekends to pull it all apart and get through the chassis.... next is engine or hydraulics (including conversion to power steering if I find a PS rack and Relais from someone), then onto axles and ancillaries. Not to forget the outer panels, the whole interior, electrics and then get the whole thing running properly.
Can’t see it being done under two years... but who knows. The journey is the fun part. Apparently
Hahaha..... That's what we all say but you are now one of us "citroen addicted its in the blood stronger than Covit 19" and there will always be another trust me talking from experience even I always say this will be the last one but guess what I'm about to start another restauration a 1970 DS21 Pallas BVH.
Pure madness Hey???
Pure madness Hey???
Over the past two weeks I have tidied up the last items of the chassis. The rear window frames needed a bit of filler, so did the two rear lids and a couple of other seat panels. I finished the seam sealer and also the stone guard of the floor.
But there was one panel that still annoyed me. The lower rear lid remained in bad shape, caved in from people sitting on it. I remembered Babadec’s (?) comment about the lower rear lid... don’t touch it, it isn’t possible to straighten it. Hmmm, bugger it, let’s have a go.
So I cut it open: the floor needed a fair bit of panel beating to flatten it out and remove the dents. To stop it caving in again but not risk distortion, I made up three brackets and welded them inside. Of course drowned the inside in rust converter...
Then welded the lid back on. Next week I will clean up the welds and then tidy up the floor and welded joins with a bit of filler as well and it will be a lot better than it was. Glad I tackled it - it would have annoyed me all the time seeing it dented.
Now Only stage 4 restrictions need to ease so I can get the whole chassis and ancillary panels to the painter.
But there was one panel that still annoyed me. The lower rear lid remained in bad shape, caved in from people sitting on it. I remembered Babadec’s (?) comment about the lower rear lid... don’t touch it, it isn’t possible to straighten it. Hmmm, bugger it, let’s have a go.
So I cut it open: the floor needed a fair bit of panel beating to flatten it out and remove the dents. To stop it caving in again but not risk distortion, I made up three brackets and welded them inside. Of course drowned the inside in rust converter...
Then welded the lid back on. Next week I will clean up the welds and then tidy up the floor and welded joins with a bit of filler as well and it will be a lot better than it was. Glad I tackled it - it would have annoyed me all the time seeing it dented.
Now Only stage 4 restrictions need to ease so I can get the whole chassis and ancillary panels to the painter.
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Hello, well I completely messed up the lower rear lid. In the end I put a brace across the length of the tailgate then had a piece of 5mm aluminium checker plate plasma cut to fit. The plate will be pop riveted in place. In the meantime I had the lower tailgate sand blasted and zinc sprayed inside and out.
I've nearly finished the upper tailgate. Window corners have been brazed into place. I made my tailgate from two, one with a rubbish top, the other with a rubbish bottom half. I cut and shut, now the whole thing is rubbish!
The biggest pain has been the metal strip that holds the lower rubber seal in place. Although available from the usual suppliers, it is the wrong shape. It is just a channel. The original has curved lips to the channel. It took all afternoon to beat the channel into shape, using a 4mm rod as a former.
The upper tailgate will also be sand blasted and zinc sprayed.
I've nearly finished the upper tailgate. Window corners have been brazed into place. I made my tailgate from two, one with a rubbish top, the other with a rubbish bottom half. I cut and shut, now the whole thing is rubbish!
The biggest pain has been the metal strip that holds the lower rubber seal in place. Although available from the usual suppliers, it is the wrong shape. It is just a channel. The original has curved lips to the channel. It took all afternoon to beat the channel into shape, using a 4mm rod as a former.
The upper tailgate will also be sand blasted and zinc sprayed.
Ouch, sorry to hear the upper lid issues! What’s your plan now, find a new one?
Interesting comment on the seal channel - I got replacements off Darrin in the UK and had a similar suspicion as the shape is more angular, but went ahead and just welded them in as they are. I might have to trial fit the lid seal (with the inner core) and see whether it works before I paint the car. Wouldn’t want to have to fiddle after the paint has been applied...
I would love to catch up with your latest progress, and have tried for the last couple of days. But images aren't showing from post 210 onwards? I just get a load of question marks in small blue boxes. Anyone else having this problem please?
Not sure what’s going on either. I upload photos and can see them at the time. The next time I look most of the time just a .jpeg link shows.
If I edit the post the photos are visible again...
If I watch my posts on a PC it works... maybe it’s an IPhone thing?
If I edit the post the photos are visible again...
If I watch my posts on a PC it works... maybe it’s an IPhone thing?
Hmmmm...my problems are when using Safari browser on a Mac. I just logged into Aussiefrogs using Firefox instead of Safari. The little question marks have gone - but only to be replaced by long alpha-numeric jpeg filenames.....