He's a real joy to watch. So much skill.
My new challenge - 1964 ID19F Safari
- Thread starter bleudanube
- Start date
I certainly felt like Fitzee over the past two weekends - can’t say I missed the cutting, welding and grinding since finishing the chassis… but: what needs to be done needs to be done, so back onto the doors and outer panels:
Most of the bottoms of all doors are rusted - as are the bottom edges of the door skins. Some are a little better than others, so the process of fixing it is roughly the same for all four doors.
Folding the sections isn’t easy - the tapers, radii and angles are all a little different, which pushes my folding skills via a couple of steel angle to the limit. But, they all came together after all.
I folded the door skin bottom edges over an offcut from a slightly thicker sheet, which worked very well.
Once the seal holders were plug welded back into the recess and the whole door epoxy primed it looked pretty good.
The sheet metal on the doors is super thin - very easy to blow holes into it, which then takes a bit of patience and practice.
Added the drain holes to the doors. I will coat the inside of the doors after the dents are removed or filled. I will then add the seam sealer and also paint the bottom section with stone guard before the doors receive another coat of epoxy primer and then the final paint of Bleu D’Orient!
A few more weeks of toiling and I should be close to handing the panels back to the painter…
Most of the bottoms of all doors are rusted - as are the bottom edges of the door skins. Some are a little better than others, so the process of fixing it is roughly the same for all four doors.
Folding the sections isn’t easy - the tapers, radii and angles are all a little different, which pushes my folding skills via a couple of steel angle to the limit. But, they all came together after all.
I folded the door skin bottom edges over an offcut from a slightly thicker sheet, which worked very well.
Once the seal holders were plug welded back into the recess and the whole door epoxy primed it looked pretty good.
The sheet metal on the doors is super thin - very easy to blow holes into it, which then takes a bit of patience and practice.
Added the drain holes to the doors. I will coat the inside of the doors after the dents are removed or filled. I will then add the seam sealer and also paint the bottom section with stone guard before the doors receive another coat of epoxy primer and then the final paint of Bleu D’Orient!
A few more weeks of toiling and I should be close to handing the panels back to the painter…
Last edited:
bleu d'orient! sexy!
Hello, which epoxy primer are you using?
The primer that is on the panels is as per below, but it comes only in a 4L kit.
So I bought a one litre can and hardener from the same shop but different brand. They promised they don’t interfere as long as each layer is cured properly.
I am actually brushing it on for now as I need to sand it again anyway, apply filler, seam sealer, stone guard, etc and I then give it to the painter to put the aic primer over it all again.
Sven
So I bought a one litre can and hardener from the same shop but different brand. They promised they don’t interfere as long as each layer is cured properly.
I am actually brushing it on for now as I need to sand it again anyway, apply filler, seam sealer, stone guard, etc and I then give it to the painter to put the aic primer over it all again.
Sven
Be really careful with those activated hardeners. I can feel the cancers growing just looking at those tins 
....... You really need an air fed mask to paint them. WHile they are drying I avoid the shed for a few days. The fumes they create while they are gassing off/hardening can make you feel sick in the guts (well it does with me). Even the activated POR15 that is brushed on makes me feel sick to be around for the first few days.
....... You really need an air fed mask to paint them. WHile they are drying I avoid the shed for a few days. The fumes they create while they are gassing off/hardening can make you feel sick in the guts (well it does with me). Even the activated POR15 that is brushed on makes me feel sick to be around for the first few days.
DONE! All outer panels’ rust cut out, sections fabricated and welded back in. This wasn’t as bad and lengthy as the chassis work, but I won’t miss the dirt from the grinding or the fumes from the welding…
Practice makes perfect. I got better at fabricating door bottom sections. Joining two sections is easier than trying to fold up four angles…. Then add the end sections and drain holes. A skim of filler will cover any sub standard welding.
One of the front fenders was rusted behind the bonnet lock holder. A fiddly job with a number of plug welds to recreate.
both front fender’s rear bottom sections were also a little rusty, but not too bad and easier to access and fabricate than the door bottoms.
And there they are: All 10 panels - ready for the last step of filler and prep work. Slowly getting to the pointy end of the restoration.
Never thought I would enjoy cleaning up the work bench after weeks of grinding
. Pack up all the tools, vacuum the whole garage and benches in preparation for the next stage.
Question for the Safari anoraks - my rear panels have a number of 3mm holes in them. They look like they may have had a trim riveted on or something like that… was that ever an aftermarket option?
Also got my rims back, with nice new Michelin X 165x400 tyres. Expensive exercise, but they will last a few decades…
And another brains trust question: A mate of mine sent me a couple of “period correct” accessories…
A foldable fan style sun visor and a Korean made Galaxy 206 radio. Does anyone know what year those are from? Even roughly? Surprisingly Google doesn’t show anything at all on the radio…
Unlikely I will use them, but let’s see whether anyone knows anything about those items.
Happy lockdown 5.0. Hopefully over soon…
Sven
Practice makes perfect. I got better at fabricating door bottom sections. Joining two sections is easier than trying to fold up four angles…. Then add the end sections and drain holes. A skim of filler will cover any sub standard welding.
One of the front fenders was rusted behind the bonnet lock holder. A fiddly job with a number of plug welds to recreate.
both front fender’s rear bottom sections were also a little rusty, but not too bad and easier to access and fabricate than the door bottoms.
And there they are: All 10 panels - ready for the last step of filler and prep work. Slowly getting to the pointy end of the restoration.
Never thought I would enjoy cleaning up the work bench after weeks of grinding
. Pack up all the tools, vacuum the whole garage and benches in preparation for the next stage. Question for the Safari anoraks - my rear panels have a number of 3mm holes in them. They look like they may have had a trim riveted on or something like that… was that ever an aftermarket option?
Also got my rims back, with nice new Michelin X 165x400 tyres. Expensive exercise, but they will last a few decades…
And another brains trust question: A mate of mine sent me a couple of “period correct” accessories…
A foldable fan style sun visor and a Korean made Galaxy 206 radio. Does anyone know what year those are from? Even roughly? Surprisingly Google doesn’t show anything at all on the radio…
Unlikely I will use them, but let’s see whether anyone knows anything about those items.
Happy lockdown 5.0. Hopefully over soon…
Sven
An educated guess for the radio tells me '68-'73. Looking at the packaging for the screen (looks like an early Toyota Carina?), about the same age.
Happy lockdown 5.0. Hopefully over soon…
One of the reasons we're recalling our Governor.
Happy lockdown 5.0. Hopefully over soon…
One of the reasons we're recalling our Governor.
Holes in rear panels.
There was an aftermarket kit (not sure if it was Robri or GH) to fit infill panels in the wheel arches, to resemble the look of the saloon. These were fitted with screws in those holes
There was an aftermarket kit (not sure if it was Robri or GH) to fit infill panels in the wheel arches, to resemble the look of the saloon. These were fitted with screws in those holes
Not sure that was it as I found one broken rivet in one of the holes (ie no distortion from screws) but ultimately doesn’t matter - won’t be adding infills… never seen a photo with them in. Would make it look quite rear heavy I would think.
Those rims and tyres look pretty sharp Sven. Looks like you'll have the old girl out just in time to enjoy Spring. Let me know if you need a set of hands any time? Great job!
Previous owner might have used rivets instead of screws? Either way...... eventually someone agreed with Citroen factory that the safari wing was a bit more of an impediment to wheel-changing than the saloon was, and took them off again.
Found a photo on Dr. Danche’s nuancierds website… yuk, would look terrible with infills…
Maybe Yuk...... but distinctive!
I don't mind it.Found a photo on Dr. Danche’s nuancierds website… yuk, would look terrible with infills…
View attachment 134932
Don't have Photoshop so I grey scaled it cause I reckon the bright colour doesn't do it any favours.Attachments
Hi Sven,
Could the holes have been for additional mud flaps.
There was a black safari in Melbourne (at the 50th celebration at Fed Square about 15 years ago) that had infilled rear arches and it looked pretty cool if a little hearse like. That green one just looks plonky for some reason (the colour?)
Can't wait to see your finished safari
cheers Tony
Could the holes have been for additional mud flaps.
There was a black safari in Melbourne (at the 50th celebration at Fed Square about 15 years ago) that had infilled rear arches and it looked pretty cool if a little hearse like. That green one just looks plonky for some reason (the colour?)
Can't wait to see your finished safari
cheers Tony
Hello, NiceDONE! All outer panels’ rust cut out, sections fabricated and welded back in. This wasn’t as bad and lengthy as the chassis work, but I won’t miss the dirt from the grinding or the fumes from the welding…
Practice makes perfect. I got better at fabricating door bottom sections. Joining two sections is easier than trying to fold up four angles…. Then add the end sections and drain holes. A skim of filler will cover any sub standard welding.
View attachment 134877View attachment 134882
One of the front fenders was rusted behind the bonnet lock holder. A fiddly job with a number of plug welds to recreate.
View attachment 134879
both front fender’s rear bottom sections were also a little rusty, but not too bad and easier to access and fabricate than the door bottoms.
View attachment 134884
And there they are: All 10 panels - ready for the last step of filler and prep work. Slowly getting to the pointy end of the restoration.
View attachment 134883
Never thought I would enjoy cleaning up the work bench after weeks of grinding
View attachment 134880
Question for the Safari anoraks - my rear panels have a number of 3mm holes in them. They look like they may have had a trim riveted on or something like that… was that ever an aftermarket option?
View attachment 134881
Also got my rims back, with nice new Michelin X 165x400 tyres. Expensive exercise, but they will last a few decades…
View attachment 134875
And another brains trust question: A mate of mine sent me a couple of “period correct” accessories…
A foldable fan style sun visor and a Korean made Galaxy 206 radio. Does anyone know what year those are from? Even roughly? Surprisingly Google doesn’t show anything at all on the radio…
Unlikely I will use them, but let’s see whether anyone knows anything about those items.
View attachment 134878View attachment 134876
Happy lockdown 5.0. Hopefully over soon…
Sven
Hello, Nice work! Could you tell me where you have bought your tyres from?
Stuckey Tyres in Brunswick / Sydney Road. About $400 each incl tubes and fitting.