still took a week longer than expected as there were a few more more pieces Upper sill pieces I had to fabricate and weld in. Then added the two brand new outer sills - nice when you have new parts to put in. Very rewarding.
Also welded the seal holders back into the rear section, the boot lid and the B pillars.
Found a couple more dodgy section in the floor near the seat belt attachment points and also in the cross cover where the seats bolt on. Will attack that next weekend and then onto then left sill, which is hopefully a little better than the right hand... famous last words.
Hello, the sills on my Safari looked OK until I picked at one of the scabs. I cut off the entire outer sill, and then found that the repair sections only cover the bottom half. I had a local firm fold some steel for me, 1.5mm and 2mm thick. I welded on tabs for the horizontal dust cover mounts and welded on nuts for the hose clamps. I did drill through first so the bolts can go in fully.
I strengthened the bottom lip of the sill with some 1.5mm steel. This gave enough meat to drill 10mm holes for plug welding. In the 2mm outer strengthening sheet, I used 12mm holes to plug weld the two sheets together.
In fact the 100 kB limit was lifted some time ago to (I think) 4 MB. There is still a limit (someone found it by trial & error in the first few hours of the new software), but I didn't take note of what it was. I'd assume, until otherwise proven, that it's somewhere near that 4MB mark.
I used 0.6mm wire and a piece flattened copper pipe to back it if filling a small hole. Do you guys have trouble with welding spot welds shut (as in filling the hole) but not actually welding it back to the metal below
I've never had luck with spot weld cutters or drills. They seem to dull almost immediately. Given there can be dozens of spot welds holding the smallest part on ... cutters sure are expensive to use.
Hello, with the 5mm hole, it would fill with weld with almost no attachment to the metal underneath.
I gave up on carbide cutters, the sort with a point in the middle. Now I just use a small drill to start then swap over to a larger drill bit. I have though sharpened the larger drill so the cutting angle is about 150 degrees.
If they are really getting on my nerves, I use a plasma cutter.
Same here: small drill first, then a bigger drill if I don’t need the panel underneath any more. But if I want to save the panel underneath I use one of those 3/8th Blair spot weld cutters with a decent amount of cutting fluid. They do last quite well. But yes, they aren’t cheap.
I use a copper block if I have to fill holes (if I can get underneath it of course).
finished off the door seal holders and also replaced a section of the seat support near the seat belt attachment point.
Rather than bit by bit I attacked the left hand sill all at once. To enable me to cut out the outer plate of the sill I had to unfortunately cut the outer sill again and bend it open - otherwise I wouldn’t have had no access.
plenty of rust between the plates and a need to replace the inner sills in a few places
As expected, the rear corner and sill were again full with dirt and dust from 50 years of driving...
I estimate I pulled another 2-3 kilos of dirt out. Fascinating!
As expected the inner sill is in better condition than the right hand side was, so, once I paint it with rust converter, it only needs a few small panels added and the rear will be done.
Yes, saw that. With the double angle bracket I was given I will be able to move the bolt hole just that little bit further out so that the hole (and therefore the nut) is between the outer closing panel and the outer sill panel that I can access from underneath. Your spot is between the inner and outer sill plates, difficult to access. Will play with it and take some photos.