complete mi16 motor with harness and brain. new clutch. Airflow meter and air box. Alternator and stater motor. perfect for a 205 conversion.
$2000
Ben
deguio1@bigpond.com
$2000
Ben
deguio1@bigpond.com
Mi16 motor + harness 1.9 130k
- Thread starter Ben de Guio
- Start date
What condition is the engine in? Do you have an engine number on any records for the car?
Does it have a service history? What year car is it out of? Does it have a g/box to go with it? Coil packs, what condition?
jr or Dave,
Can you guys tell me how hard the loom out of a 405 is to get working in the 205?..i have heard the BX loom is a whole lot easier to work with, has less sensors etc???
Chipper.
[This message has been edited by Chipper (edited 30 July 2001).]
Does it have a service history? What year car is it out of? Does it have a g/box to go with it? Coil packs, what condition?
jr or Dave,
Can you guys tell me how hard the loom out of a 405 is to get working in the 205?..i have heard the BX loom is a whole lot easier to work with, has less sensors etc???
Chipper.
[This message has been edited by Chipper (edited 30 July 2001).]
Chipper,
I have already emailed him for more info as i would be interested as well if the motor is in good nick.
I think the wiring would not be to hard to sort out but would take a bit of time
The work is in the shortening of the inlet manifold or moveing the radiator and getting a custom exhaust manifold made
If i did the conversion i would cut and weld the inlet and sit the engine on its right angle as i have heard to many people had problems with the driveshafts if you tilt the engine foward to clear the firewall with the original exhaust manifold.
If you shorten the inlet a bit you can keep the radiator where it is as well.
I am waiting for more info on the engine and why he is selling it.
Murat
I
I have already emailed him for more info as i would be interested as well if the motor is in good nick.
I think the wiring would not be to hard to sort out but would take a bit of time
The work is in the shortening of the inlet manifold or moveing the radiator and getting a custom exhaust manifold made
If i did the conversion i would cut and weld the inlet and sit the engine on its right angle as i have heard to many people had problems with the driveshafts if you tilt the engine foward to clear the firewall with the original exhaust manifold.
If you shorten the inlet a bit you can keep the radiator where it is as well.
I am waiting for more info on the engine and why he is selling it.
Murat
I
Murat,
Cheers mate.
I did notice a performance shop in the uk (cant find their addy) that sell already shortened inlet manifolds (to get the donk on the correct angle so as not to chew d/shafts) and pre-made zorst manifolds for this exact conversion. Some guy also makes a loom for this conversion as well. Could use these specs at the very least to get it right i guess. But neither place has returned any of my e-mails either. Musnt like the aussies huh? jealous of the weather or sumpthin?
Your in Sydney, so if you dont pick it up and its ok, drop me a line
Chipper
Cheers mate.
I did notice a performance shop in the uk (cant find their addy) that sell already shortened inlet manifolds (to get the donk on the correct angle so as not to chew d/shafts) and pre-made zorst manifolds for this exact conversion. Some guy also makes a loom for this conversion as well. Could use these specs at the very least to get it right i guess. But neither place has returned any of my e-mails either. Musnt like the aussies huh? jealous of the weather or sumpthin?
Your in Sydney, so if you dont pick it up and its ok, drop me a line
Chipper
chipper, Racing Solutions sell the shortened manifold.
it'd be chepaer to pay some to do it here once youy add freight/tax to it, it's not as if it's a specialised part that needs fabricating.
then there's always this option
Andreas
it'd be chepaer to pay some to do it here once youy add freight/tax to it, it's not as if it's a specialised part that needs fabricating.
then there's always this option
Andreas
Chipper,
The url is the one Andreas has posted for the inlet manifold and exhaust.
It would cost you big dollars to bring something like an inlet manifold and a custom exhaust from the UK.
And those shops are so expensive it's a joke.
With our dollar i would not bother to be honest unless you have money to throw away.
I will be doing the inlet and exhaust myself the problem is i am already into the turbo setup.
Murat
The url is the one Andreas has posted for the inlet manifold and exhaust.
It would cost you big dollars to bring something like an inlet manifold and a custom exhaust from the UK.
And those shops are so expensive it's a joke.
With our dollar i would not bother to be honest unless you have money to throw away.
I will be doing the inlet and exhaust myself the problem is i am already into the turbo setup.
Murat
Chipper,
By the way i am in melbourne so i would need to fly down there and check it out.
I purchased my 1.9 high comp from sydney so it wont be the first time.
Murat
By the way i am in melbourne so i would need to fly down there and check it out.
I purchased my 1.9 high comp from sydney so it wont be the first time.
Murat
Chipper,
the engines in good condition, its out of a 88 405 mi16. It hasnt had a cam belt change since the 100km mark. It has the exhaust manifauld, Ive kept the gearbox. The loom does fit into a 205, it does take some time but theres primary wires to conect for it run eg, power, fuel and ignition otherwise all the 205 engine bay harness(not engine harness) stays the same.
the engines in good condition, its out of a 88 405 mi16. It hasnt had a cam belt change since the 100km mark. It has the exhaust manifauld, Ive kept the gearbox. The loom does fit into a 205, it does take some time but theres primary wires to conect for it run eg, power, fuel and ignition otherwise all the 205 engine bay harness(not engine harness) stays the same.
hi guys, the tilting of the motor/chewing driveshafts is not the real problem.....its oil starvation, which is a bigger nightmare than d/shafts. if u do buy the shortened inlet manifold from racing solutions[ it looks poor quality] it probably will lessen low down torque. question?? did mi16's come out in 1988? i thought it was 89!! the wiring loom is a fairly simple job but quite labor intensive...thus $$$$ thought of the day..if your not the lead dog the view will always be the same !!!
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The motor has 130k. Im pretty sure about 88 but mabe its 89. It came with be1 box which has reverse next to 1st, which makes it the first series of Mi16, it had 14inch wheels. manifold inlet and outlet yes.
The wiring does take time. I learnt by reading the manual and at the time it didnt mean alot to me cause i hadnt dealt with wires before. But if you can understand a wiring diagram (which i didnt) its not that hard.
The motor came out of the car about five months ago.
Ben
The wiring does take time. I learnt by reading the manual and at the time it didnt mean alot to me cause i hadnt dealt with wires before. But if you can understand a wiring diagram (which i didnt) its not that hard.
The motor came out of the car about five months ago.
Ben
JR,
It would be best to leave the engine the way the factory engineers designed it an therefore u will not run into any probs
The inlets are tuned so cutting and shutting them would rob torque down low.
I would much rather move the radiator carefully or weld up another one that will allow the original inlet to fit.
You would have to be pretty keen to order that cut and shut inlet from racing solutions as it will probbally cost u as much as the engine when it arrives.
If u could not build the radiator yourself i would advise spending the money on a custom radiator and keeping the standard inlet manifold.
I think he meant 89 mi16
Murat
It would be best to leave the engine the way the factory engineers designed it an therefore u will not run into any probs
The inlets are tuned so cutting and shutting them would rob torque down low.
I would much rather move the radiator carefully or weld up another one that will allow the original inlet to fit.
You would have to be pretty keen to order that cut and shut inlet from racing solutions as it will probbally cost u as much as the engine when it arrives.
If u could not build the radiator yourself i would advise spending the money on a custom radiator and keeping the standard inlet manifold.
I think he meant 89 mi16
Murat
Folks,
Andreas, thats the mob i was thinking of, and what are you trying to do to me (with regards to your unreal T/B set up) make me jealous, yeah, well, it worked
I was more looking at the Racing Solutions site for info rather than getting the bits from them, apart from the fact they never acknowledged my e-mail, the pound is the preventing factor. It does have a picky of exactly where they cut the manifold though.
Now, can someone clear up the inlet runner length/low end/high end torque ratio.
I was of the opinion that short and fat inlet runners meant more low end torque at the sacrifice of top end torque, and long thin runners are the opposite? Comments?
jr,
How did you do your conversion? Did you move your radiator forward? It looks awfully close to the radiator as it is. Isnt there some dramas with cooling when the radiator is moved due to the fact it has to sit a bit lower due to being moved forward, creating airlocks ala VL commondore? Aircon is of little importance to me as 100,2wd aircon has blessed most of my cars (100kph, 2 windows down
) and I can do without it, so can discard the front A/C Rad. Can you also give me an idea (if you can) of the install cost? I understand yours cost a bit more due to the rebuild you performed, but if i was to "plonk" the thing in as is, any idea on the figure for this?
Murat,
I have mates in Sydney I could get to check it out for me, I just thought you were from Sydney (for some reason). Thanks for your info as well.
Ben,
I have e-mailed you my ph number and I am interested. I can get a mate or two to have a looksee at the engine, and if it all looks as you have said, we can negotiate.
Look forward to hearing from you.
Cheers
Chipper
[This message has been edited by Chipper (edited 31 July 2001).]
Andreas, thats the mob i was thinking of, and what are you trying to do to me (with regards to your unreal T/B set up) make me jealous, yeah, well, it worked
I was more looking at the Racing Solutions site for info rather than getting the bits from them, apart from the fact they never acknowledged my e-mail, the pound is the preventing factor. It does have a picky of exactly where they cut the manifold though.
Now, can someone clear up the inlet runner length/low end/high end torque ratio.
I was of the opinion that short and fat inlet runners meant more low end torque at the sacrifice of top end torque, and long thin runners are the opposite? Comments?
jr,
How did you do your conversion? Did you move your radiator forward? It looks awfully close to the radiator as it is. Isnt there some dramas with cooling when the radiator is moved due to the fact it has to sit a bit lower due to being moved forward, creating airlocks ala VL commondore? Aircon is of little importance to me as 100,2wd aircon has blessed most of my cars (100kph, 2 windows down
Murat,
I have mates in Sydney I could get to check it out for me, I just thought you were from Sydney (for some reason). Thanks for your info as well.
Ben,
I have e-mailed you my ph number and I am interested. I can get a mate or two to have a looksee at the engine, and if it all looks as you have said, we can negotiate.
Look forward to hearing from you.
Cheers
Chipper
[This message has been edited by Chipper (edited 31 July 2001).]
i have heard that it is possible to mount the engine at the correct angle without having to move engine mounts or the radiator.
i think it involved shaving part of the radiator, i'll look into it.
as for the bx loom being easier to work with, arent all the wires green on it and on the mi16 one they're coloured?
Andreas
i think it involved shaving part of the radiator, i'll look into it.
as for the bx loom being easier to work with, arent all the wires green on it and on the mi16 one they're coloured?
Andreas
Andreas,
Cheers for that.
I think the BX loom just has less sensors ???
Maybe its just a myth that its easier to use as lots of literature exists to that effect.
Go figure.
I will have a squiz tonight to see if the radiator can be moved forward (the bottom mount is the concern) without moving below its current level. Otherwise, a custom alloy job might be the go.
Can anyone tell me the angle in degrees that is optimal for this conversion? Is it the same as the 8V?????
Any help welcomed.
Chipper
[This message has been edited by Chipper (edited 31 July 2001).]
Cheers for that.
I think the BX loom just has less sensors ???
Maybe its just a myth that its easier to use as lots of literature exists to that effect.
Go figure.
I will have a squiz tonight to see if the radiator can be moved forward (the bottom mount is the concern) without moving below its current level. Otherwise, a custom alloy job might be the go.
Can anyone tell me the angle in degrees that is optimal for this conversion? Is it the same as the 8V?????
Any help welcomed.
Chipper
[This message has been edited by Chipper (edited 31 July 2001).]
Chipper,
People have completed whole books on just inlet manifold design.
Without getting to deep the peugeot uses a common plenum connected to four runners in a helmholtz resonance system and the runners are tuned to take advantage of the low pressure wave that exists when the piston desends down that causes the negitive air wave to go back along the intake port and inlet manifold runner when this wave hits the plenum and then is reflected back down toards the engine if this event is timed to return at the right time it helps in packing more air
What this means is the engineers at peugeot spend a lot of time tuning these runners so shortening the runners will rob power.
Long and slim runners for low down torque as this setup has good air velocity compared to fat and short runners that has better potential air flow up in the rev range bu poor air speed velocity down were you are driving %80 of the time.
Hope this makes sense
And i think it would be easier moving the radiator down rather than moving it foward to clear the runners.
But without having the runners to measure i would be guessing.
Murat
People have completed whole books on just inlet manifold design.
Without getting to deep the peugeot uses a common plenum connected to four runners in a helmholtz resonance system and the runners are tuned to take advantage of the low pressure wave that exists when the piston desends down that causes the negitive air wave to go back along the intake port and inlet manifold runner when this wave hits the plenum and then is reflected back down toards the engine if this event is timed to return at the right time it helps in packing more air
What this means is the engineers at peugeot spend a lot of time tuning these runners so shortening the runners will rob power.
Long and slim runners for low down torque as this setup has good air velocity compared to fat and short runners that has better potential air flow up in the rev range bu poor air speed velocity down were you are driving %80 of the time.
Hope this makes sense
And i think it would be easier moving the radiator down rather than moving it foward to clear the runners.
But without having the runners to measure i would be guessing.
Murat
Chipper,
I have already talked with ben and let him know what i am willing to pay for the engine
If your freinds check the engine out and it is ok good luck with it all and we will help you out with info if you need it.
I am busy with the turbo setup anyway so it is not a good time for me to buy the engine.
But because it is a complete setup i thought i would make him an offer.
I will be getting a engine from the uk in the future so i am not fussed.
Murat
I have already talked with ben and let him know what i am willing to pay for the engine
If your freinds check the engine out and it is ok good luck with it all and we will help you out with info if you need it.
I am busy with the turbo setup anyway so it is not a good time for me to buy the engine.
But because it is a complete setup i thought i would make him an offer.
I will be getting a engine from the uk in the future so i am not fussed.
Murat
chipper, yes i moved the radiator forward. tilted the motor slightly forward approx 1 inch. i used factory inlet/exhaust manifolds. the rad is not lower, why mine is extra close is because last year i got a stone thru it so replaced the core and the dickheads put a 2 core in it when it was a single core. install cost[as is] would be around $1000. the bottom mount is easy. i also used the 205 rad and oil cooler. my conversion was done by professionals and with a large phone bill every nite to ecosse when hiccups would pop up, as nobody had done this at the time in oz.[4 years ago] i strongly advise doing up the lump b4 installing. better safe than sorry. cheers
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JR,
What don't u understand about the post chipper asked for advice regarding the inlet manifold and i explained why it shouldn't be cut and how it robs power if u do afterall thats what chipper wanted to know is it not.
Yes you did say don't cut the manifold but i explained why it should not be cut.
Anyway its pretty obvious.
I would put throttlebodies on the motor and toss the oem manifold anyway (Hey but thats me)
Murat
What don't u understand about the post chipper asked for advice regarding the inlet manifold and i explained why it shouldn't be cut and how it robs power if u do afterall thats what chipper wanted to know is it not.
Yes you did say don't cut the manifold but i explained why it should not be cut.
Anyway its pretty obvious.
I would put throttlebodies on the motor and toss the oem manifold anyway (Hey but thats me)
Murat