Master Cyclinder?


Active member
Fellow Frogger
Jul 15, 2002
Gold Coast
Help! :confused: I have a 8/75 R17G and need to repair/replace the master cyclinder. I know I can get a kit for them but I would prefer to replace it as it has some corrosion around some of the connections. Is the cyclinder the same as the 12 Gordini? Being a 75 model is it the same as the TS? What is the meaning of life?
Also is the tailgate lock (just the barrel part) the same as on the 12 wagon?
Thanks. mallet
Is the corrosion around the connections bad? Or just surface rust? I'd imagine being cast iron it would be only surface. Probably an idea to get it stainless steel sleeved while it is out of the car, that will prevent further corrosion to the internal surface anyway, and while it is being blasted it will reveal any corrosion that would render it unservicable.

The cylinder is the same as the late 12G's and 17TS.

The rear lock barrel will be the same as a 12 wagon.

The meaning of life? Take your pick: 1063, 1091, 1093, 1134, 1135, 1173, 1313, 1327, 1317, 1327.

Thanks Simon,

Perhaps a fan of Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy?

Ok Simon,

Just realised when I actually read the codes. Reno's!!!! tongue
G'Day g'day...

I honed my 12 m/cylinder with one of those drill powered hones, followed by the hone wrapped in 1000 grit carborundum paper, followed by a THOROUGH clean, then replaced the seals and it has lasted 5 years like that. Mine had some pitting where the reservoir rubbers sit, but there's been no problem or leaks; I used new reservoir seals. I do change the fluid every 18 months or so.

I'd recommend what Simon said, though - s/s sleeve. Just make sure they are reputable, as I've heard that some don't properly chamfer the various holes drilled (for example where the holes to let the fluid in reside) and they can tear the seals prematurely. My stop gap repair was because I was skint at the time...but I hammer my brakes to complete fade and they're still fine.