Marks Mi16 Rebuild

New bolts - by the book 300 deg - 4th bolt - pulled the helicoil out of the block. I am over these bloody aluminium blocks. Does a 1.9 16v head fit on a 2.0 steel block?

I have never experienced this with any steel blocks in the past. I don't have any hair left.

...over it!
 
Alloy blocks can be a pain in the dorongo especially when you need such bestial torque, but I have three cars all with alloy blocks and didn't experience any problems. They're not even helicoiled. What I do however is I always use a dial gauge torque wrench for torqueing (never a clicky type) and clean the threads until I can put the bolts in all the way through their entire thread by hand (before anything goes on) with absolutely no effort. Clean thread, try bolt, clean again, until the bolt goes through clean and smooth from top to bottom. When the time comes to torque I use lots of moly grease on the threads and under the heads, otherwise my very sensitive gauge wrench will show jumping around. When the wrench is happy, I put the head on. For the last step I use an angle gauge. No problems so far, but I do realise some of these blocks are old and can have worn threads so pucker factor is at defcon one when I have to do this job.
 
PugMonkey said:
New bolts - by the book 300 deg - 4th bolt - pulled the helicoil out of the block. I am over these bloody aluminium blocks. Does a 1.9 16v head fit on a 2.0 steel block?

I have never experienced this with any steel blocks in the past. I don't have any hair left.

...over it!
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You used new bolts?
I always just torque the bolts to 65 ft lbs or so. Never had any problem.
Yes 1.9 head will fit 2.0 block, need to use a 1.9 diesel head bolt above the water pump.
I have a 2 litre rebuilt with 1.9 head and Piper cams/solid lifters. Want a few dollars though. This engine has throttle bodies which I'm happy to sell on their own.
 
GRAHAM WALLIS said:
You used new bolts?
I always just torque the bolts to 65 ft lbs or so. Never had any problem.
Yes 1.9 head will fit 2.0 block, need to use a 1.9 diesel head bolt above the water pump.
I have a 2 litre rebuilt with 1.9 head and Piper cams/solid lifters. Want a few dollars though. This engine has throttle bodies which I'm happy to sell on their own.
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Yup New bolts, copper grease on clean threads and under bolt head. Followed torque setting but it's the 300 deg rotate the kills me every time. Did it on both 8 valves and now this. I wasnt going to do the 300deg in the first place. I was going 25 - 50 - 75 but took note of the balance of knowledge base.
 
Hey Mark sorry to hear of your woes with the alloy block. There are many variations with helicoils in both their type and length. The ones I used were where the length was twice the diameter of the headbolt shank (2D). Any shorter and pulling the thread is more likely. I had an engineering company drill the block and install them too.
I used the 25, 50 & 70 lbs/ft torque method.
 
I once put seven helicoils in a block. It had a long life until my son destroyed it. Definitely needs to be 2D minimum. 2.5D is better.
 
PugMonkey said:
Yup New bolts, copper grease on clean threads and under bolt head. Followed torque setting but it's the 300 deg rotate the kills me every time. Did it on both 8 valves and now this. I wasnt going to do the 300deg in the first place. I was going 25 - 50 - 75 but took note of the balance of knowledge base.
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75 is too much, the bolts go into the plastic phase above 65 to 70.
 
Matthew said:
I gather your staying with the alloy block if your asking this?

Sent from my Mi 9 Lite using aussiefrogs mobile app
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Aahhg I don't know what I am going to do now. I have another block but again - get it gleaned up with the correct liner protrusion 200 bucks, another thread set 100 bucks and strip it all down again and put into the new block... I've allready speant a mint on this. Mind you, I'm kicking myself I didn't put ARP bolts on the conrods. Maybe this is a good excuse.

I just want my 205 back! ....sniff
 
OK I'm going to try once more. I will order some ARP bolts for the conrods (if someone can help me with an ARP part number that would be good). I'll get the block done again this time with the 2.5D Recoils. I AM NOT GOING WITH 300 DEGREE ROTATION.
 
Maybe it's a good time to go for broke and do everything else if there was anything you initially thought was not really necessary.

And that's how your 5k budget for an engine rebuild starts pushing 10k. Comiserations.

However, you will end up with a sweet engine and in retrospect you won't regret it.
 
I'm not sure why you're fixated on ARP rod bolts. Even if you intend to race it, I don't think they're necessary. I ran standard ones to 8500 rpm for years without problems.
However, if you want to go that way-Part No is 117-6101.
 
Mark get two sets and I will go for it with you? That is if you do get them that is? Need any help??? Happy to assist and learn plus bring a good torque wrench.

I want mine on the road too with the hp to knock most things off a straight line red light drag and the ability to deliver and brake.
 
Matthew said:
Mark get two sets and I will go for it with you? That is if you do get them that is? Need any help??? Happy to assist and learn plus bring a good torque wrench.

I want mine on the road too with the hp to knock most things off a straight line red light drag and the ability to deliver and brake.
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Get an auto, I can beat most people off the line in my stock 205 Si, by the time they get their head into gear and their engine fires itself up.
 
PugMonkey said:
I do miss my Si. I'd have another one in a heartbeat.
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Replace Oxy sensor, adjust timing back from the usual retarded to standard (Need TAD 100 device), 14 inch wheels, Mi16 gear box and 306 8 valve or 206 base model front brakes and you have an excellent car.
 
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