Marks Mi16 Rebuild

Some pics for future reference.
 

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PeterT said:
Some pics for future reference.
Click to expand...
Thanks Peter, you know, I remember you saying to put a smear of threebond under the liners when putting into place. The only way I could work out how to do this was to have the piston in the liner before it goes into the block doing it two by two. Your image confirms this. I will do this tommorow night and the clamp them all down at the same time.

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29th of April was my last post - Wow how much has changed between then and now.

Well I don't have the garage and workshop I used to have but I have all the goodies and engine in one spot to continue the job. I'll unwrap it all this weekend and continue on.

Thread resurrection......
 
Got back into the build this month. Unwrapped all the goodies fron storage and started on my new journey. Everything survived its hibernation with only one part needing some resurrecting work (exhaust cam polish) Liners, pistons and rods are in. Oil pump on. Now I'll spend some time sorting through some parts just to make sure I have everything together. I know I need a waterpump and ilder pullies for the cam belt. I bought a cam belt kit but bearings have gone walkabout. IMAG1042.jpegIMAG1043.jpegIMAG1044.jpeg

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I have two second hand ones that are in very good condition because the belt broke! I replaced them but I don't think they needed to be.

Next weekend bring em down?
 
Oops all apart again. Oil pump should have gone on after the sump extention..... A quick removal and refix. IMAG1046.jpegIMAG1047.jpegIMAG1051.jpegIMAG1052.jpeg

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I have been researching Valve Springs. Matthew raised the question that since I have so much spent on the head, it's a shame to put the standard (old) valve springs back in. My research shows a kit from catcams model number CC-PAC-S10011-16. Am I on the right path here. Peter T's recommendation is set to 80 lb which is what I will forward to the head man.

Update on this - Springs are ordered pending delivery. Srings were 11 Euro each with 47 Euro for parcel post so approx $340Aud Landed

I did find some interesting spring suppliers / Manufacturers in SE Queensland though, but with very limited knowledge in the details I just could not answer the questions they were asking. Turned out they would have been a similar price anyway when asked for a ballpark figure.


https://www.performance-parts.fr/gb/camshaft-accessories/26409-cat-cams-valve-spring-kit-tu-16s-xu9j4xu10j4.html

 
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Good work. I think it's more like 90lbs of seat pressure too.
 
Good to hear mine will be the same roo I hope, keep up with the news it keeps me entertained dreaming of what's next!

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Well.... I put the head on today! .... But I'm not happy. I torqued it all down using 25 - 50 - 75 lb measurements. 25 ok, 50 ok and I have three bolts that wont tighten down to 75lb. They are nice and tight just waiting to hear the wrench click but its not happenig. I feel I have gone all the way correctly but dont want to stretch the bolts too far. All of the threads in the block have been helicoiled.

What do I do - Do I cross my fingers and keep going, do I leave them as is and feel confident that they have been tightened or do I pull it all apart and investigate?

If I do the later, have I buggered the cometic gasket?

....scratching head
 
These TTY bolts start to go into the plastic phase at around 70 ft lbs. Any more than that and it is best to use the normal angle torque method. The Peugeot Rally Club in the UK recommended 55 ft lbs, bit low I think.

 
They are new bolts - so do I just continue with 300 deg? will gasket be ok?
 
PugMonkey said:
They are new bolts - so do I just continue with 300 deg? will gasket be ok?
Click to expand...

No, how do you know how many degrees you have tightened them already? Gasket will be fine. Better to get another set of bolts and either tighten to high 60s or angle tighten to 300 degrees.
 
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