Marks Mi16 Rebuild

[FIVEDOOR]

I do miss my Si. I'd have another one in a heartbeat.

Le French Motors at Woolloongabba has closed down and is selling his bits and pieces. I dropped in the other day and saw a white 205 Si he is selling. Was running when he parked it. Was going to fix it up for himself but other peoples work got the priority. Looked tidy enough on the outside. No idea of the price. Need to make an appointment if interested as he is not there all the time any more.

 

[PugMonkey]

Update - All the helicoils out, threads cleaned up, 2.5 Coils ordered and a pro called in to fix two threads with bigserts. My question now is, since the head has been on and torqued down and now off again, do I use the same Cometic head gasket or do I have to buy another? Engine was never started.

 

[PeterT]

re-use the gasket.

 

[PugMonkey]

Head is on finally.

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[Matthew]

Well done indeed. I have Teflon anti-sieze in mine now, following you. Threads in mine are good thankfully.

 

[PugMonkey]

Bit more done today. Need to get a Rocker gasket some plug hole gaskets and a front main seal then the front timing stuff goes on. Can't post pics now as 100. Kb limit.

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[PugMonkey]

Resized photos

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[schlitzaugen]

Well done indeed. I have Teflon anti-sieze in mine now, following you. Threads in mine are good thankfully.

I think there is more than just threads getting corroded to why we keep pulling threads in Aluminium. I have had this problem with a Honda that refused to let go of one spark plug once. I did manage to pull it out eventually and no damage was done because I was very patient, but after a couple more times of the same trick I changed it. There was no apparent reason for the plug getting stuck, all was clean, I used the correct torque, I didn't try to put it in or take it out when hot and so on. I still have no idea why it was giving me problems, but I suspect there are two possibilities. One, the plug was just a bit oversize (out of tolerance or maybe just the wrong side of the tolerance for a plug hole itself on the wrong side of the tolerance) and the other to do with how different metals expand and contract. Assuming all tolerances were fine, I guess steel and Aluminum don't like each other very much when they try to expand in the same space and that damages the threads a bit every time until one morning when you didn't have your coffee and pull the thread out too hard. Anti seize and stuff might help a bit, but if the expansion pushes the thread along the axis of the hole (as if trying to extend the thread pitch), the base of the thread shears a bit every time, or it is worked up and down a bit until it work hardens or who knows what.

Hate threads in Aluminium.

 

[PugMonkey]

Got heaps done on the pug today. Shocks, control arms, and a complete brake refresh. I went a size smaller in brakes to 266mm down from 283mm. Still bigger than the original 247mm but now I have slotted disks and a race pad so I have saved a out 2kg of unsprung weight per wheel. I still have the 24mm master cylinderiin place too so that should be very effective. I drew up (and had printed) some helper spring rings as I'm matching a spax helper with GAZ springs. Sweeeet!

 

[PugMonkey]

Pictures attached

 

[PeterT]

Nice work but give it maximum caster.

 

[PugMonkey]

Well hired a crane for a week to lift the engine in and the bloody crane had a faulty ram so on to plan B. Placed it on a cradle and I'll roll it under. So, was about to put the gearbox on and so threads were bad in the flywheel where the pressure plate mounted so it's off to the machine shop again. Some good electrical work, new speedo cable so I got heaps done.

 

[PugMonkey]

Pictures!

 

[PugMonkey]

Got the engine in last weekend now I'm cleaning up all of the ancillaries. Mocked up a mounting bracket for the oil cooler and radiator and sorting out some AN fittings to connect it up. Oil cooler is from a Land Rover discovery and I think it will fit well when everything is in place.