long stroke oil pump

citroenthusiast

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Fellow Frogger
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Phoenix, Arizona USA
While stripping the oil pump for my 11BL (with ID block) to replace the gears, I discovered that the pump shaft itself is badly worn. My usual suppliers have come up empty-handed. Does anyone know of a source for these? I am in North America.
Oil Pump drive shaft scored_.jpg
 
That is an option, however, I think it would be a very expensive option. I checked into hard chroming some brake pistons some years ago. The cost was close to $200 each. I assume it would be easier to get some 12.5mm steel shaft and make one from scratch (if I had a woodruff keyway cutter the right size.) The existing shaft is not hardened.
 
That is an option, however, I think it would be a very expensive option. I checked into hard chroming some brake pistons some years ago. The cost was close to $200 each. I assume it would be easier to get some 12.5mm steel shaft and make one from scratch (if I had a woodruff keyway cutter the right size.) The existing shaft is not hardened.
Hi John :)
Here is a simple easy option from my past working life repairing stuff. I would take a shaft like that and using oxy run some bronze welding rod on it over the worn area. Then a quick skim in the lathe and you have a bronze area that wears much better than the original ! I have even done that away from the shop and filed it down to size if no other option. Build up under bearings, loose couplings etc. Never had a comeback on my bronze welding. :rolleyes:
Jaahn
 
Thanks that may be what I end up doing. I have ordinary flux coated brass brazing rods. I assume bronze is different? Is there a particular spec for the type of bronze you used?
 
So the bronze rods I found locally are approximately 60% copper, 0.5% Tin, 1% iron some traces of manganese and silicon with the balance zinc. I thought bronze should have quite a bit more tin. The tensile strength is stated to be 50-60 Ksi. Running against a cast iron housing do you think this alloy will hold up, or is there a better alloy to use?
 
So the bronze rods I found locally are approximately 60% copper, 0.5% Tin, 1% iron some traces of manganese and silicon with the balance zinc. I thought bronze should have quite a bit more tin. The tensile strength is stated to be 50-60 Ksi. Running against a cast iron housing do you think this alloy will hold up, or is there a better alloy to use?
Hi John :)
I believe the description of brasses and bronze is a bit loose and people use them differently in different places. It is quite a few years since I have bought or used them, I will give you this. But I believe possibly any decent rod might be good for this application.
Here is a local catalogue which I used and the specs of their rods. Nickle bronze high strength rods (flux coated or bare) were my preferred rod as it is high strength and does every thing, but the manganese rods are more available and were good for ordinary work. Pages 27-28.
Oxy welding is a lost art mainly due to the speed of other welding. But it is versatile and you can see what is going on(if your eyes are OK) to control the process. I always found brazing/ bronze welding was good for most repairs, on different metals and spreads the loads more than an electric weld.
good luck Jaahn
PS I have used it successfully for repairing cracked cast iron manifolds too. You do need to grind the crack wider to get full penetration and good adhesion. It is hot work to get it preheated and welded but it will work much better than electric CI welding or oxy with CI rods, in my experience. They always crack again in my limited experience. o_O
 
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Hi John :)
Here is a simple easy option from my past working life repairing stuff. I would take a shaft like that and using oxy run some bronze welding rod on it over the worn area. Then a quick skim in the lathe and you have a bronze area that wears much better than the original ! I have even done that away from the shop and filed it down to size if no other option. Build up under bearings, loose couplings etc. Never had a comeback on my bronze welding. :rolleyes:
Jaahn
I did this with the gear selector forks in the traction gearbox. Worked a treat!
 
Now we can own our own gas bottles in Australia again, I wouldn't be surprised if welding with gas torches doesn't make a comeback! It will be interesting to see. I bet John already has all the gear there to do this. If I can get the oil pump out of the motor I have in bits here, I'll check the shaft. I'm expecting it to be rusted in there though as the dizzie has obviously been out of the motor fro years.
 
Now we can own our own gas bottles in Australia again, I wouldn't be surprised if welding with gas torches doesn't make a comeback! It will be interesting to see. I bet John already has all the gear there to do this. .

YUP, this is 'Merca where we can own as many dangerous implements as we want :) Indeed, I have a B cylinder of Acetyline and a 40 CuFt bottle of Oxygen (Imperial measurements still persist here) sitting in my garage as we speak. I did, however, uncover a long stroke oil pump in my pile of parts. It yielded a shaft with only a few score marks, so I may not need to weld up the old shaft at all.
 
Thanks, but I think the seller's definition of "great shape" and mine are somewhat different.
have a look under the bonnet ...., er, "hood" :) It looks like it has an ID19 motor (and possibly gearbox) in there. The should liven the old girl up a little!
 
No! It is definitely a three speed trans. I enlarged the picture of the front of the car and looked closely ( ----better than a 'Man Look', as my wife would say). The other give away is that there is a gear selector tower behind the radiator fan.
It may be a good starting point for a 'Ground Up'. But has a number of inconsistencies. Wrong bumpers and grille. These are easy fixes. At least the guards are useable with a bit of panel work.
Mine started its journey in worse condition than this. The saving grace was that it was straight and had good floors and sills. Price for the condition is fair!
 
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Well Gerry ... throw your eyes over this one ..... Why didn't we hook the car trailer up and head for Queensland the second I spotted the advert :(( The front of the car is sitting low enough it must have a motor and gearbox fitted as well! Look how straight and rust free it appears! Not only that .... the parts would have to be worth the asking price twice over!
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Nice, if you want to do up a 'Six'. However C/F to an 11 they are very heavy to work on and very thirsty to run. Go like the clappers though!
 
Hi :)
Shane there is nothing to stop you putting the trailer on and hot-footing it to Queensland. OH NO except the border is closed but surely if you show those pics to the guy there he will consider that a good enough reason to get in :geek: Possibly take the wife and kids too and make a holiday out of the trip. That should get some brownie points for you :love:

Plenty of parts for sure, but that spare crankshaft looks like a good letterbox post :rolleyes: Plenty of other but !
Jaahn
 
Hi :)
Shane there is nothing to stop you putting the trailer on and hot-footing it to Queensland. OH NO except the border is closed but surely if you show those pics to the guy there he will consider that a good enough reason to get in :geek: Possibly take the wife and kids too and make a holiday out of the trip. That should get some brownie points for you :love:

Plenty of parts for sure, but that spare crankshaft looks like a good letterbox post :rolleyes: Plenty of other but !
Jaahn
I think it sold iwthin minutes of being posted! It looks rust free and quite straight. remarkable really.
 
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