Meanwhile over at the tyre shop
Hankook R-S4 $415 fitted and balanced
Hankook R-S4 $415 fitted and balanced
Little Silver 205GTI
- Thread starter CEyssens
- Start date
My notes suggest that wire carrying the "unlock" signal into the central locking controller module from the remote receiver is numbered 203, and the wire carrying the "lock" signal is numbered 204. On my car I removed those wires from the controller down near the steering column and connected up the 'lock' and 'unlock' signals from the immobiliser instead and, hey presto, the remote control on the immobiliser now controls the factory central locking.
A phase one 205 never had remote central locking in the first place so maybe it won't have those same wires and terminals?
I've got a spare phase 2 central locking controller box here that does have the right terminals if that would be any use.
Here's a diagram for the wiring for the controller. I can also scan and sent my translations but it's pretty rough: http://aws-cf.caradisiac.com/prod/mesimages/1003540/boitie101.jpg
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Very nice. Have they been refurbed because they look great!
Hi Richard,
Thanks that is quite helpful, it definitely doesn't have the original remote central locking, I'll have a look and see if I can patch it in without adding the factory remote module as then the imobiliser can be retained. If not maybe I'll be in touch about that spare module you have.
It's always so helpful to hear other peoples experiences as it can take some time to troubleshoot properly.
cheers
Craig
Yes Moe, the new owner of Little Silver had them painted, they look very nice!
Lucky the broken mount stud came out easily.
Top mount buffers definitely due for a freshen up
Lucky the broken mount stud came out easily.
Looks like a crack in the bottom of the mount socket - you need to plate that and weld it up.
Cheers
Justin
Nice pickup Justin!
I did notice something but hadn’t had a chance to get in there with a wire brush to clean it properly yet to check the extent of the damage. I’ll report back on what I find, from the photo I agree.
The car is having some welding done soon so it will go on the list.
cheers
Craig
I had the same issue with the 306 cab. Just weld a plate over the top.
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The mount is definitely cracked, I didn’t bother cleaning back the whole area as it’s clear there’s work to do there.
Nice new Bosch timing belt in and all the covers going back on. Yet again more bolts and nuts wrong or missing. I’ve spent a considerable amount of time just sorting out wrong or missing parts in this car.
Nice new Bosch timing belt in and all the covers going back on. Yet again more bolts and nuts wrong or missing. I’ve spent a considerable amount of time just sorting out wrong or missing parts in this car.
And it looks like someone had a go at welding that crack before.
I wonder what can possibly crack the body there and how? Looks like a fatigue crack, so possibly repeated flexing, but how, because a flexible rubber mount shouldn't transmit force.
I wonder what can possibly crack the body there and how? Looks like a fatigue crack, so possibly repeated flexing, but how, because a flexible rubber mount shouldn't transmit force.
I didn’t see any old welding. It’s a rubber mount but it’s still transferring load. Also once the buffers are worn the load on the bottom area is increased due to increased travel. Its certainly fatigue failure. Considering the strength of the mounts and loads in play that flat plate is in my opinion under designed.
Also we don’t know the history of this car, it’s had some type of strut brace in the past and has modified suspension so has likely had harder than average use and acceleration and gear changes etc. all the mounts I’ve touched on the engine/transmission have been shot.
All 2 litre 306's will crack there as well. Just a design fault. Later models have MUCH stronger engine to chassis arrangements for that mount.
Cheers
Justin
Cheers Justin, thanks for the feedback and input I definitely agree it’s a weak point. Luckily an easy fix.
Another short stop to work on little silver and finally found all my bolts, nuts and washers to assemble the timing covers (some searching and parts nicked from spare engines)
One thing I’ve been constantly challenged with on this car is finding all the right parts. These two bolts belong on the bottom of the lower timing cover that sit under the crank accessory belt pulley.
All new belts and idlers (existing were all shot)
Even the alternator belt tension adjuster was cactus and missing bolts.
Fuel leaks finally fixed. I had to replace the washers supplied by BakerBM with the new fuel line and banjos as they wouldn’t seal. New flat washers worked perfectly first go. I’ll have to email them.
Car started so easily and ran smooth, nice idle.
This is all a bit pedestrian I’m sure, however I feel that getting a project car going for some people with busy lives is a bit like this and can sometimes stall for what feels like an eternity. So I thought it good to share.
Bit by bit Little Silver is coming back to life! [emoji4]
One thing I’ve been constantly challenged with on this car is finding all the right parts. These two bolts belong on the bottom of the lower timing cover that sit under the crank accessory belt pulley.
All new belts and idlers (existing were all shot)
Even the alternator belt tension adjuster was cactus and missing bolts.
Fuel leaks finally fixed. I had to replace the washers supplied by BakerBM with the new fuel line and banjos as they wouldn’t seal. New flat washers worked perfectly first go. I’ll have to email them.
Car started so easily and ran smooth, nice idle.
This is all a bit pedestrian I’m sure, however I feel that getting a project car going for some people with busy lives is a bit like this and can sometimes stall for what feels like an eternity. So I thought it good to share.
Bit by bit Little Silver is coming back to life! [emoji4]
You put the A/C belt the wrong way around the idler/tensioner. The lack of grooves in the idler should be a hint which way the belt goes around it.