Latitude Hints, Tips and Problems

Kim Luck said:
I've had similar issues with my last two new Renaults at the same service centre. On replacement of rotors and pads at about 35000 Km my cars have sailed past another 65000 Km before needing any other brake attention. It's probably the reason that Renault service centre is no longer a dealer or service centre. They will all try you on, so use a set of measuring calipers on your rotors to ensure they are out of spec before agreeing to a change.
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This seems to be the new reality as everyone seems to be on the same bandwagon of changing out rotors that have some wear rather than machining or dressing them up, fav, excuse seems to be out of spec. Mostly I ask for the replaced items to check wear myself as I am interested to see the condition of removed items. Not that this is foolproof if the dealer has plenty of badly worn out of spec items to fob off as those from your car. You could do as a mate/colleague did and mark all the service items as a check that the dealer is doing their job properly, remarkably his check showed up that filters and suchlike hadn't been changed, but he had been charged for same (Toyota Dealer in those days) not Renault.

My only experience of that sort of behaviour was in relation to the Renault Dealer charging for two batteries being changed in key card when they only had one keycard in their possession!:blackeye:

If that happens, for me, there is no second chance for that dealer and such a trivial item to destroy consumer confidence.:blackeye:

So if you have any suspicion as to how your dealer is performing, might be worth a check to confirm or put aside the nagging doubt..:wink2:

Ken.:)
 
Hello Everyone. I'm new to both Renault ownership and the forum. I picked up a 2011 Latitude last weekend. It's the 2.0TD. So far I'm really impressed with it. It's got lots of creature comforts, it uses very little fuel and it's got a decent amount of poke when you want to put the foot down. Running around the Sunshine Coast, I'm getting 7.2 - 7.4 l/100km's which is less than half my old BMW X5 4,6IS used to use. Up here I pay $1.22 for diesel and used to pay $1.55 for PULP. I was surprised at the physical dimension of the car. It's a lot bigger than it looked in the car yard pictures. It's quite a bit longer than my old X5. All in all I'm very happy with the purchase.
 
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Kim Luck said:
I've had similar issues with my last two new Renaults at the same service centre. On replacement of rotors and pads at about 35000 Km my cars have sailed past another 65000 Km before needing any other brake attention. It's probably the reason that Renault service centre is no longer a dealer or service centre. They will all try you on, so use a set of measuring calipers on your rotors to ensure they are out of spec before agreeing to a change.
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Perhaps it is a matter of economics rather the deliberate collusion.

These day rotors are cheap as chips, aftermarket, for common vehicles, less the $50 ea trade.

At that price new, it simply not worth the time for the dealer to send them away and have them machined. Very few workshops seem to have disk/ drum lathe these days.

And when a dealer does an inspection, the question "will these disks last (remain 100% effective) until the next scheduled service" is always an issue. Deep scores and buckles will generally write the disks off.

And of course with the current fuel efficiency fanaticism of manufacturers. Are the disks designed to have no extra "meat" to skim?

Paying through the nose for regular service, using OEM parts, is just a "benefit" of having a dealer service your car.

Disk and pad replacement as a DIY job is almost therapeutic and a pair DBA Rotors and pads sets generally costs around $120 at real trade price and takes about 1.5 hours a side.

Dealers are running a commercial venture and will never fail to maximise the bottom line on a invoice. I pick and choose the the works I authorize them to carry out.
 
robmac said:
Perhaps it is a matter of economics rather the deliberate collusion.

These day rotors are cheap as chips, aftermarket, for common vehicles, less the $50 ea trade.

At that price new, it simply not worth the time for the dealer to send them away and have them machined. Very few workshops seem to have disk/ drum lathe these days.

And when a dealer does an inspection, the question "will these disks last (remain 100% effective) until the next scheduled service" is always an issue. Deep scores and buckles will generally write the disks off.

And of course with the current fuel efficiency fanaticism of manufacturers. Are the disks designed to have no extra "meat" to skim?

Paying through the nose for regular service, using OEM parts, is just a "benefit" of having a dealer service your car.

Disk and pad replacement as a DIY job is almost therapeutic and a pair DBA Rotors and pads sets generally costs around $120 at real trade price and takes about 1.5 hours a side.

Dealers are running a commercial venture and will never fail to maximise the bottom line on a invoice. I pick and choose the the works I authorize them to carry out.
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I work on the principle that the more ridges and scoring on a rotor, the more surface area there is for the pads to work on......
 
Kim Luck said:
I work on the principle that the more ridges and scoring on a rotor, the more surface area there is for the pads to work on......
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A somewhat different theory to what is used to assess RWC condition.

And not really conducive to progressive braking, pad longevity, nor driving pleasure.

But each to his own. Many may disagree with your theory.
 
I've finished rallies with badly scored rotors and barely any pad material, but the 16 kept stopping. It even kept stopping metal to metal, as long as you were travelling over 80 km/h. Not so good in low speed traffic though.....had to get home somehow!
 
Kim Luck said:
I've finished rallies with badly scored rotors and barely any pad material, but the 16 kept stopping. It even kept stopping metal to metal, as long as you were travelling over 80 km/h. Not so good in low speed traffic though.....had to get home somehow!
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I had my 16TS go metal to metal and my mate was driving. We were about 22 yrs old, 2 ladies in the back. The front locked up (not sure which side) and we were coming downhill on a 5 km stretch, but she let go thank god. I was young n dumb. Ha ha. I'm much more sympathetic now but it was scary enough to remember. I'm pretty sure back then I never gave a thought to the brakes. Now it's very different. Can change the 172 discs and pads in a couple of hrs [emoji106]


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Kim Luck said:
I've finished rallies with badly scored rotors and barely any pad material, but the 16 kept stopping. It even kept stopping metal to metal, as long as you were travelling over 80 km/h. Not so good in low speed traffic though.....had to get home somehow!
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It's a total myth that scored disks improve braking. And anyone in their right mind would ensure disks remain smooth and as clean as possible. And the pads have plenty of friction material.

Braking is all about maximum force per unit area when applying the brakes.

And scores in the disk, although notionally increasing the contact area, simply prevent the major area of the pad applying maximum force to the disk.

And, yes, a few of us have had lapses of common sense and driven cars with unsafe brakes and paid a premium afterwards to have the damage repaired.

It's not something I like to boast about and exactly the situation a OEM Dealer would try prevent by the timely replacement of suspect rotors.
 
Not boasting, Rob. I just couldn't find a Renault dealer open at 10am on a Sunday morning between Lorne and Dandenong.........
 
Kim Luck said:
Not boasting, Rob. I just couldn't find a Renault dealer open at 10am on a Sunday morning between Lorne and Dandenong.........
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On the other hand and perhaps more to topic. If the car had been serviced, or the brakes visually checked prior to the event, then perhaps the situation could could have been avoided.

It's called preparation for the event. :wink2:
 
robmac said:
On the other hand and perhaps more to topic. If the car had been serviced, or the brakes visually checked prior to the event, then perhaps the situation could could have been avoided.

It's called preparation for the event. :wink2:
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In the same event, I ripped the LHS wishbone off the torsion bar courtesy of a massive hidden pothole. It was fixed at the next servo we found open on Saturday. In 18 years of rallying I never ran out of brakes, except for the Western District Car Club two day rally that year which appeared to be very hard on brakes. And other stuff. I should remind our readers (and Rob) that we were a self funded, shoestring, un-sponsored team, no service crew. That's how it was for the bulk of competitors then. At least we managed to remain on the road for the duration of every event we entered and finished them all as well.
 
Kim Luck said:
In the same event, I ripped the LHS wishbone off the torsion bar courtesy of a massive hidden pothole. It was fixed at the next servo we found open on Saturday. In 18 years of rallying I never ran out of brakes, except for the Western District Car Club two day rally that year which appeared to be very hard on brakes. And other stuff. I should remind our readers (and Rob) that we were a self funded, shoestring, un-sponsored team, no service crew. That's how it was for the bulk of competitors then. At least we managed to remain on the road for the duration of every event we entered and finished them all as well.
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Nice to know !

However largely irrelevant to to the original thread topic of dealers, allegedly, erroneously replacing brake rotors. :wink2:
 
Has anyone had to replace a front fog light lens? I've just noticed that mine is broken. I assume that you can just replace the lens as opposed to the whole light. Thanks. John
 
Just had the 60,000km service interval done today, 'B service' and a major one at that. Cost from Unley Renault, Adelaide - $970.00!! Lucky for me, when I bought my Latitude second hand from Brighton Renault, Melbourne, it was sold with the 'Diamond Advantage Program' with 2 Free schedule services and the balance of the new car warranty and road side assist, so it didn't cost me anything. I've only done 48,000km, so all services are being done on time duration, not kilometres. The last service was done 12 months ago and I had only clicked over to 41,000km, so I haven't don't too many kilometres between the services.

My steering wheel has developed a spilt in the top of the wheel, which is finished in that black 'piano' finish surface, it's not leather, like the rest of the steering wheel. I asked them to take a look at it, hoping it would be a warranty job as it's still under the new car warranty, which runs out in August 2018 and there were no questions asked. They did the warranty claim and now I just have to wait for the new steering wheel to arrive, which will be replaced all under warranty! It was so easy, which is how it should.

James
 
My cars warranty ran out the day I took it in for a 60 month service, only done 70,000. No warranty claims but it did need new rear discs and pads. My original tyres only lasted 25,000 ks due to uneven wear. I fitted Toyo's but I hit a kerb and took a chunk out of a front tyre and then a back tyre developed un even wear after 44,000 k,s so a new set required even though they had quite a bit of tread left. New tyres are quiter and softer. Not sure of the make I'll check, but not cheap at 200$ each.
 
Is there anyway to have the radio on and have the time showing somewhere (either on the nav screen or on the LCD in the dash)? If so, how?
 
Hi all

I have a 3.5 V6 Latitude 2013 with 26000 on the clock. It's been looked after well. only last week I noticed a fluid on the parking under the car.Checked undernead and could see fluid leaking (could't locate the source as it was above the tray). it is colorless with no significant smell. It shouldn't be engine oil as it is not that greasy and no change on engine oil level.
I am suspicious it is transmission fluid. Could be anything else? The gears are changed smoothly no kick or slip.I am not driving it anymore to avoid any damage though.
1- I can't find transmission fluid gauge to check the level. any advice/?!
2- does anybody can comment if the fluid is reddish or colorless? As far as I know trans fluid is reddish.
3- Warranty expired few months ago. You reckon going to renault dealers is alright?
4- I assume the trans is Jacto JF163e.am I right?
 
I don’t have a Lattitude however I do look after several Renault’s so I would suggest that you could very likely drive it without issue however you did not specify how much fluid you find after the car has sat.

Does the fluid evaporate? Could by water moisture being discharged from the aircon system. Could also perhaps be oil from the aircon system and given it is clear and thus would imply the refrigerant would have also escaped meaning the pressure switch would activate and the aircon system shut down.

My first action would to be to get the under engine cover off and see if there are any drips on the bottom of the cast housing between engine and gear box. This would indicate trans fluid.

Given you car has done very few kms and thus sat a fair amount it could be the main bearing seal on the crank output to gearbox. This does happen as it can deform if the car sits for extended periods unused. This happened to our Koleos but that was a extreme circumstance as the business that owned it before us did 1000k in 12 months in it!!

Prob a good idea to think it through and perhaps just get it checked for a leak if this can’t be done yourself.

Keep us posted.




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it is not aircon water because it won't evaporates and lasts on the ground. the amount of leak is considerable, 3-4 full spoons for several trips.
you'r guess might be right as I drove the car once every 3-4 weeks. if this is the case that cranckshaft seal is leaking, this is engine oil or trans fluid leaking? shouldn't the trans fluid be red?
I have no chance to get under the car as it must be jacked up to get rid of the cover tray. and I have no stand. do you recommend a renault dealer or any service shop?
 
Update on my car!

It has been since 18th June my car diagnosed with an Tranny O-ring leak in Motor Group Parramatta. First they said that the part is not in stock and should be coming from Melbourne which takes 2 days. I went back to them after 2 days and was told that the part is not here yet, We'll contact you once it is here. After a week I heard nothing so called them and they said the part has not been in Melbourne so it's been ordered from France!! and takes 6 weeks to arrive! 2 days ago I called Renault customer care again and ask them to take things serious before I go insane. It worked and received a call from repair shop that the O-ring has arrived but they are waiting for transmission fluid!!! which is coming from France!!!
I told them that any fluid that meets manufacturer's specs can be used but they said Renault insisted to have their own fluid!!
So frustrating. My car is off the road for 20 days and still waiting.

Moral of the story:
Never Ever Renault Again!
 
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