Is this the best project car you have ever seen?

Hmmm,

I reckon it's a shiny laquer top coat :confused:

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I'm surprised how well it's clinging to the metal under the fusebox here... I can't readily scratch it off at all ( I wonder what paint system this is given there appears to be no primer). In a lot of places I can scratch this paint of with my thumbnail

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I should be able to strip most of this back to bare metal with a pressure washer.

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Does anyone know what paint marks signifiy (I'm sure an early "D" expert will now what a brush stroke of red paint here means). I'll re-create these after if's painted black again.

I'd love to spend some more time tinkering with this ... but I only seem to find about an hour late at night some nights to get out there :( Just as well we have no neighbours living on top of the shed any longer :clown:

I reckon there's an "oil" in it's hydraulics too :confused: , certainly it doesn't appear to be brake fluid, it's to vicious and doesn't smell right ... Maybe Canola ?? If so it'll probably have saved the hydraulics being soaked in an oil for 25+years it's been sitting (rather than moisture retaining/corroding brake fluid).

seeya,
Shane L.
 

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I've decided how this is going to work... I've copied all the CX special tools (except the caster tool), so I'll send them back and do the CX in about 3months time .... the id19 should be on the road on club rego by then .... So I'll still have a car to drive when the CX is off the road :dance: :banana:

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Lots of tinkering :)

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It's amazing the minor differences, eg: the driveshafts have about 1cm of rotation in the joints, the other car had none at all.

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Little wonder they stop well.... Look at the size of the brakes !!! There almost bigger than the motor :roflmao:

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This is the "good" motor. It was plenty grunty for an ID motor, so I figured I'd check the basics without unbuttoning it at all. I pulled the water pump ... the impeller was good... Pulled all the plates off the head, and there is clean coolant behind them and little signs of corrosion.

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The other ID in town I fitted a head to had corrosion behind this rear plate up into the valve area. This one appears perfect.

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It's even spotless inside ... It was always a "tappy" motor, I should see if the rockers on the original motor exhibit less wear (it wouldn't surprise me if they have a fraction of the wear) and swap them over... They can always be shifted back to the original motor when it's refitted at some point in the future.

Gee's it's enjoyable tinkering with proper cars rather than PSA made junk :approve:

seeya,
Shane L.
 

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Harmonic balancer on the back..isn't that very rare ?
I know the later short strokers had them for a short while.
 
Harmonic balancer on the back..isn't that very rare ?
I know the later short strokers had them for a short while.

I've heard it is. It certainly will not be the original motor to the black car. It would be only the later imported cars that had this motor I would have thought :confused: I'm surprised there no sign of leakage around the balancer either way. You would think it would be a good place for oil leaks (hidden away where it is).

I'm not going to touch any of it, I'll stick it straight into the other car. The clutch & motor worked fine in the other ID :)

seeya,
Shane L.
 
great take of for the supercharger

It's a little "snug" back there :)

Nah, she's an id .... I like the "sedate" nature of the old things. If I wanted it a little gruntier I'd convert to LHM and shove the "slightly" gruntier 2.1 injected mill with 5spd gearbox in there. It looses all of it's appeal when you do that... It would have "slightly" more power though.... infact about 140hp instead of the 68hp ( ?? ) of the old long stroke lump :)

If you have the period supercharger to suite though ................. You'll let me know right :evil:

seeya,
Shane L.
 
Wow, I can see I'm clearly going to need to start saving my pennies for a trip to see this car. Tat is one hell of a find there shane!
 
I was just looking around the 3 ID's here ... The idea being I was trying to see if I had an "un-butchered" dash between the three of them.

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Huh ?? A cute little clock with mechanical cable operated adjustment. I wonder if this was an option :confused:

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Amazing ... I most glad I dragged this rusted out heap of junk home now ... Look at that, the plastic steering column shrouds aren't broken. Does anyone know if that vinyl covered finish for the dash panels is factory ?? I thought they were all painted :confused:

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This car has the metal trim bit down the middle un-butchered, so I'll use that. However the dash panel and lower trim bit have been cut up to fit radios/guages. I'm amazed .... Gee's I'm pleased I went to the effort of dragging this rusted out heap from my last house.... Check this out ***perfect*** dash plastic vents. I've never seen a car with an intact set of these. How will I get them out without destruction :confused: .... hmmm..... How do I fit them to the "good" car without breaking them ?? Just sit them in place and not tighten the screws :confused:

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I might keep the trim covered lower dash part and keep the best of the "period" guages in it. I always have a good unbutchered one i can fit later if I feel like it.

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This one has a nice un-damaged webasto sunroof fitted. But there's no way I'm butchering the perfect alluminium roof in the good car to fit it :( ...... Maybe we can stick in in the DS23 of my fathers :)

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You guys probably don't understand my excitement about this car .... Well here's an example of your "average" early 'D'.

The reason I dragged this thing home was simply for its fasteners... It's intact so still has all it weird thread pitch fasteners there ..... Only now it's staying intact as it's my reference so I can figure out how to re-assemble the other car in a couple of months time.

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These car can look quite ok from the outside, this one doesn't look overly rusty.... See the big hole down in the front nose cone...

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Front edge of the bonnet sacraficed away.

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Bonnet hinge ... It pulled away from the body as I lifted the bonnet.
 

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Just noticed there is an manifold heat shield on this one .... never seen one of them on a car before :)


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This is what you will find behind that grey vinyl trim on the sills

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A "normal" ID alluminium roof... There is a metal edge crimped to them, so the alluminium sacrafices itself and you end up with this ..... the roof seperating and leaking. Every roof I have is like this except that pink car.

seeya,
Shane L.
 

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The vinyl covered dash panels are not factory.They should be just plain grey ( with a bluish touch).
Are you even lucky enough to have the flat plastic covers in front of the speedo match ? early IDs had a 1st gear down and later had a first gear up shift pattern. No dount M.Middlemoon will advise.
 
These are all later cars with the slightly later gearbox. It's the same shift patern as the later D's & Renault 16. ie: toward the drive and up is 1st. The really early ones were towards the driver and down for first :)

The column shift must develop enormous slop in most cars at some point in there lives, so they end up with smashed column surrounds :(

seeya,
Shane L.
 
Ang must love you, she'd have to having to put up with you dragging rusty hulks home and then watching you get all excited over them

hmmmmmmmmmmm maybe i could have worded that better :roflmao::roflmao::roflmao:
 
Does anyone know which wheels it should have. There appears to be two sorts of hubcaps and 2 sort of attachment points on the wheels. I'll need to get a matching pair. Some have alloy (very banged up) hubcaps, others have heavily banged up hubcaps made of metal/rust and peeling chrome. I'm hoping for the alloy ones :) .... Then I just need to fugure out how to fix them :confused:

So that's a no to the covered dash bits :) Are you sure some weren't black. A lot of cars I've seen have black painted dashes. Of course someone in the last 48years may well have re-painted the dashes :)

seeya,
Shane L.
 
Where are you guys buying your brake fluid resilient return lines these days. I'm pretty sure everywhere will sell nitrile rubber ... which will not talk to brake fluid :confused:

I've nearly finish pulliing apart .... soon I'll start splashing some paint around and re-assembling so we can see what she drives like :) there's gonna be a hell of a lot of time involved in stripping and painting everything under that bonnet before it's refitted though :)

seeya,
Shane L.
 
I've nearly finish pulliing apart .... soon I'll start splashing some paint around and re-assembling so we can see what she drives like :) there's gonna be a hell of a lot of time involved in stripping and painting everything under that bonnet before it's refitted though :)

seeya,
Shane L.

What happened to you camera Shane?
We are hanging out for pictures of the car and what you are doing with it.
You are so fortunate having a real jewel like this to restore we want to be part of it..

enjoy....

Cheers

Colin :cheers:
 
Shane,
Your car should have the later hubcaps, which sadly are not the alloy ones.
The EPDM lines you need you should find at a rubber shop in the smaller sizes, anything that is for winsdcreen wipers, etc. is in EPDM rather than nitrile.
Plastic of the clear type is another alternative, engine bay temperature will shorten its life as it goes hard, resists break down by brake fluid.
Laboratory supply houses may also be another sourse of EPDM tubing.
 
What happened to you camera Shane?
We are hanging out for pictures of the car and what you are doing with it.
You are so fortunate having a real jewel like this to restore we want to be part of it..

enjoy....

Cheers

Colin :cheers:

I didnt' want to bore you guys to tears :) ...... How many pictures of rusty & filthy car parts can people tolerate :confused:

I guess i could break out the greasy camera ... :) There's not much to see though.

Richo ... bloody ripper, I'd never have thought of lab tubing (infact I'd never heard of it) ... It's NR which will work (though possibly not as good as EPDM. It's the larger lines (ie: reg return, pump feed) that I'll likely need ... I guess piccies will describe why.

http://www.silicone-tubing.com.au/laboratory_rubber_tubing.htm

seeya,
Shane L.
 
I didnt' want to bore you guys to tears :) ...... How many pictures of rusty & filthy car parts can people tolerate :confused:

I guess i could break out the greasy camera ... :) There's not much to see though.

Richo ... bloody ripper, I'd never have thought of lab tubing (infact I'd never heard of it) ... It's NR which will work (though possibly not as good as EPDM. It's the larger lines (ie: reg return, pump feed) that I'll likely need ... I guess piccies will describe why.

http://www.silicone-tubing.com.au/laboratory_rubber_tubing.htm

seeya,
Shane L.



ohhh its ok...bore us :wink2:...please...I love pictures of rusty and filthy car parts...you know..the "before" and "after"... :approve:

Take pics and document it...its not just entertaining and educational...there is a certain something about looking at pictures of how a car used to be...you d be nuts not to photograph everything...

:cheers:

dino
 
ohhh its ok...bore us :wink2:...please...I love pictures of rusty and filthy car parts...you know..the "before" and "after"... :approve:

Take pics and document it...its not just entertaining and educational...there is a certain something about looking at pictures of how a car used to be...you d be nuts not to photograph everything...

:cheers:

dino

Well I've learnt one thing anyway ... you can't move these cars backwards without a steering rack. You end up with this within about 30centimeters :(

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This black car is critically important.... You see this ID19 would never be put back on the road even in the distant future without these ....

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The tires on this car have only done about 4000km.... So still have 99% of there tread, and no there certainly not cracked... they haven't been stored in the sun either. With tubes your looking at about $2000 for these four tyres :( Years ago I actually used an ACG interest free loan through bob jane to buy these .... they were $1000 back then which I thought was insane .... There now close to double though :eek: I always thought they'd end up on my fathers traction, I never thought I'd have a 'D' worth putting them on :)

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Why I need to chase up some brake fluid lines :)

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The rear view mirror on all three cars looks really bad in it's mounting shaft .... I tried to get this one apart so I could send the heavily corroded mount off to get plated. You WILL break the plastic surround getting it off though, to find it's retained by blind rivets. I don't think I'll bother, I'll wire brush the mount on one of the others and paint satin black.

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springs that hold the glovebox lid open ... need plating

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as do most of the fasteners

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Must remember the decorative washers under these screws.
 

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