ID madness

O

O'Murchu

Member
Tadpole
Joined
Feb 27, 2005
Messages
20
Location
Wentworth Falls
As mentioned on the Xsara post, i'm taking the leap into the vintage car abyss. It's a 1960 ID, which is in good nick, and is mostly original. I'd be very happy to get some tips regards maintenance etc. Not sure whether i'll use it as the daily driver just yet, so any any tips in that direction would be handy too. :confused:

p.s. my wife thinks i'm barmy and I need to dissuade her with some hard evidence
 
Last edited:
O'Murchu said:
As mentioned on the Xsara post, i'm taking the leap into the vintage car abyss. It's a 1960 ID, which is in good nick, and is mostly original. I'd be very happy to get some tips regards maintenance etc. Not sure whether i'll use it as the daily driver just yet, so any any tips in that direction would be handy too. :confused:

p.s. my wife thinks i'm barmy and I need to dissuade her with some hard evidence
Click to expand...

Sounds like you need to join a Citroen Car Club? Especially as there is a technical day coming up this weekend not far from where you live. Send me a private message if you want more details.
 
Have you actually purchased the ID yet ??? If not I strongly suggest getting someone that "knows" DS's to look over it. Unlike CX/GS/BX etc... The Dseries cars hide there rust quite well to the untrained eye. Fingers crossed yours is good 'underneath'.

I'd drive an ID19 as a daily car. Please beware though, this is an ID19, not a DS so you miss out on the luxury of power steering (but still will enjoy the same supurb ride and handling of the DS). Being a 1960 model it will have standard brakes (ie: not High pressure, they were fitted to ID's in 1963). If your going to drive her daily you'll get very strong in the upper body and right leg muscle quite quickly :evil: :evil: :D

good luck, your going to love driving this old car :banana: :banana: :banana: She might be 'sedate' off the line, but when the scenery is bluring past at an (indicated) 90mph you'll think it's quite incredible.

seeya,
Shane L.
 
One important aspect of maintenance is changing the hydraulic fluid, if using the origional LHS fluid, or brake fluid , it needs to be changed every 12 months.

Another important point is that there is no oil filter on early D's so change the oil every 3000 miles (or less).

If the car has been standing for a while, you should check the brakes, especially the front to see if they are sticking or seized, not a 5 minute job to fix !.

The tyres are available but budget of around $400 each.

Otherwise the D's are much the same as any other car.

I would be very interested if you could supply the chassis number, firstly to confirm the year (1960 ID's are very rare in aus, yours might be 61 or 62 aus assembled car). and secondly to assisit in the early D survey.

Don't be put off by the heavy steering comments, with good tyres and a weel lubricated rack, the steering is quite reasonable, just a bit heavier than power steer.
 
And I should have mentioned, NEVER EVER use LHM or green fluid in a black fluid eraly car, if in doubt ask, or rebuild the entire hydraulic system.
 
I haven't bought the car as yet, but I have given verbal agreement to the current owner. He'd had it resprayed only two years ago and given me the full tour - no visible rust. Also, i've spoken to one of the guys at European Autocare(Cit specialists) in Penrith who has worked on the car frequently. He said that it was in great shape top to bottom, but that I should look at upgrading the starter(6 measly volts!).

The owner(whom i've gotten to know reasonably well, and trust) has said that it's French built and is the 1960 model. Currently waiting for him to put a few bits back on and adjust doors etc.

Great tips though!

p.s. Peter, will send you Chassis number and pics when able to.
 
I have spent the last few months getting my 1960/61 ID road worthy.The car had been standing for the last 15 years about and everything which could wear out was worn out,everything which could sieze up was siezed up,the biggest problem I found were spare parts,and that is in Europe.As so few first nose D have survived, one has to find old stock or used parts,second nose D are more plentiful and third nose D by the thousends.It took me for example 6 months to find a brake master cylinder, 3 months to find a new muffler etc.Old D have to be used regularly or they give trouble, I am intending to use my D during the summer quite regular, but lay it up during the winter here in Scotland.
I was last week in Utrecht at Citromobile and while there were quite a few first nose D's in the car park, there was practicaly no first nose spares, some for the second nose and anything you wanted for the 3rd nose.
cheers
Helmut
 
helmut said:
I was last week in Utrecht at Citromobile and while there were quite a few first nose D's in the car park, there was practicaly no first nose spares, some for the second nose and anything you wanted for the 3rd nose.
cheers
Helmut
Click to expand...
It was quite a good show don't you think? Pity I didn't get the chance to meet you. I really enjoyed the convoy from calais to utrecht, even though it was a bit fast for my liking! (90 mph in places!!) john s
 
helmut said:
I have spent the last few months getting my 1960/61 ID road worthy.The car had been standing for the last 15 years about and everything which could wear out was worn out,everything which could sieze up was siezed up,the biggest problem I found were spare parts,and that is in Europe.As so few first nose D have survived, one has to find old stock or used parts,second nose D are more plentiful and third nose D by the thousends.It took me for example 6 months to find a brake master cylinder, 3 months to find a new muffler etc.Old D have to be used regularly or they give trouble, I am intending to use my D during the summer quite regular, but lay it up during the winter here in Scotland.
I was last week in Utrecht at Citromobile and while there were quite a few first nose D's in the car park, there was practicaly no first nose spares, some for the second nose and anything you wanted for the 3rd nose.
cheers
Helmut
Click to expand...

Had any more thoughts about the Ampol Rerun, Helmut?
Graham
 
Hi Smiffy
I had hoped to take my ID19 to Utrecht, but too many teething problems, look on the UK citroen web site, instead I went by KLM to Amsterdam and by train to Utrecht. My ZX would have been too boring but I hope to meet up with you sometime. I love it that we communicate on an aussie web site!!!! :banana:
Hi Graham
I am still very tempted to take part in the Ampol re-run,I am looking on Aus E bay for a nice car, something big and outragious ie a Cadilac or Buick ,just for the run and the fun. :roflmao:
cheers
Helmut
 
As for my question...

Any fuel related tips for the ID that are out there?. I'm a wee bit nervous about feeding her the wrong/inappropriate juice and winding up with big$$$ repairs. Know it's been covered before on the forum, but I couldn't find the relevant thread.

regards,
Keith
 
O'Murchu said:
Any fuel related tips for the ID that are out there?. I'm a wee bit nervous about feeding her the wrong/inappropriate juice and winding up with big$$$ repairs. Know it's been covered before on the forum, but I couldn't find the relevant thread.

regards,
Keith
Click to expand...

You can't get much lower compression that an ID19 I imagine. The lowest octane fuel you can buy should work well in it (high octane would be a complete waste).

seeya,
Shane L.
 
DoubleChevron said:
You can't get much lower compression that an ID19 I imagine. The lowest octane fuel you can buy should work well in it (high octane would be a complete waste).

seeya,
Shane L.
Click to expand...
Don't forget to add Valvemaster though.
Graham
 
GRAHAM WALLIS said:
Don't forget to add Valvemaster though.
Graham
Click to expand...

Why :confused: :confused: :confused: It would be a complete waste of $$$$. Just put ULP in it and set the timing so it runs best. The most important part of running these old motors is regular oil changes (no oil filter) and ensuring you don't overheat it.

seeya,
Shane L.
 
DoubleChevron said:
Why :confused: :confused: :confused: It would be a complete waste of $$$$. Just put ULP in it and set the timing so it runs best. The most important part of running these old motors is regular oil changes (no oil filter) and ensuring you don't overheat it.

seeya,
Shane L.
Click to expand...
I doubt that a 1960 ID would have hardened exhaust seats so definitely not a waste of money unless it is going to have very limited use and at low speed only.
Graham
 
Yeah,

it sure does have hardened valve seats. These cars have been used for a large number of years in the USA where leaded fuel isn't available without any issues.

They have alloy heads have what appears to be very good/hard valve seats. There is only one original ID19 left of that I've heard of that was the original 50's 'budget version'. Such a poorly equiped car it only had 1 wiper (from memory), no heater, no windscreen washers, etc... and the old traction donk with a cast iron head. All others have alloy heads, the DS have an external inlet manifold with a weber double choke carby in place of the ID's single barrel carby and internal manifold.

seeya,
Shane L.
 
I assume that you are looking at the (now) apricot car with the 'ashtrays' in the front wings. I am not sure, but I think this year almost certainly does not have synchro on 1st - makes it fun :( if you are going to use it any traffic (and that means almost anywhere within 100ks of Sydney on weekdays). It's a great cruiser, but in traffic you will really have to work.

I would suggest an extended drive of such a car before you commit to it as a daily driver - yes an early ID is wonderful, but daily? You might also get very tired of the general noise, lack of a great heater etc. (not that late D heaters are the most efficient - you rely more on the general warmth of the car :) ).

P
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top