How to remove a broken stripped lock nut from a wheel

D

dcc236

Active member
Fellow Frogger
Joined
Oct 26, 2014
Messages
735
Location
Gympie, QLD
A neighbour with a 307 has a broken lock nut on his rear wheel. He has a flat rear tyre and asked for my help after seeing three Pug's in the driveway. The std pug unlock nut from the boot has nothing to attach to as the lock part of the nut has totally sheered.

What are the techniques used to remove one of these when this type of damage has occured?
 
Assuming mole grips or similar won't attach sufficiently, maybe spot weld a nut to the damaged one (arc, mig, with suitable precautions for the car electrics).
 
Those nuts are usually round (i.e. no hex or some such), right? If that is the case you can find a piece of round tube that will slide fest over the offending nut or easily enough with a bit of grease and some gentle tapping.

Okay.

Now drill two holes on opposite sides perpendicular to the wheel hub face, half in the nut, half in the tube so you thin the nut wall enough but not affect the stud thread. Ideally you would use a centre drill to start the holes. You can drill six holes if you choose the drill diameter wisely, you get the idea. Start with a small enough diameter hole, say 3mm and enlarge that until you think you are close to the threads (you can measure on another wheel stud where the threads are and how close you can get by enlarging the holes).

Get close enough and the remnants of the offending nut will come off like a rotten tooth.

If it still feels stiff, cut a slot across the top connecting the two holes with a dremel or similar.

If the nut is a tough alloy steel, you might need carbide drill bits. A bit steep, but they are the only thing that works. Resist temptation to use cobalt bits, they'll only break half way through and make the job harder. Carbide is hard but fragile as well so it too can break and it will be a nightmare to get broken bits of carbide out. Keep steady, go slowly and withdraw the drill every now and then. No need to lubricate.

If the nut is a hex, you might need to sacrifice an el cheapo chinesium socket after you remove the bottom of the socket so you convert it into a tube with a hex bore with a good fit on the nut. Again, carbide bits might be necessary here, though in my experience those pieces of crap are soft as butter.
 
Last edited:
Not this perennial again!!!! Those things should be dispatched off the nearest bridge.

They are deeply recessed into the wheel, and are designed to shear off. A lot of the welding suggestions and side access ideas are impossible.

You may have success driving on a smaller socket (good luck) or finding a bolt extractor. The latter may need a hole drilled into the bolt head without damaging the alloy wheel.

Then get standard bolts all round.
 
The idea of these is that the special socket has 4 hardened pins at varying points around the circumference to give one of many 'key' combinations. Those 4 pins rest on the periphery of the bolt head, not the raised bit that has probably snapped off. You will see 4 depressions around the bolt head and they are what the special socket grabs onto. If you have the correct socket or can find one that's close tapping it onto the damaged head and using a rattle gun and pushing inwards can work. If one or more pins have dropped out, a piece of drill bit may work, but you can succeed with 3, maybe only 2 pins remaining. By hand, a crossbrace is probably better than the lever as it allows you to push hard on the socket and bolt. Otherwise, it's a case of drilling. Beware using an ezi-out as if it snaps you are in more trouble. Then replace with a regular bolt.
 
p.s. Check the tyre for a nail/screw, insert one of those sticky repair plugs and add air. Then no need to remove the wheel immediately.
 
I successfully got one out of my 407 with a small chisel without damaging the rim, but it took almost an hour! To get rid of the other 3 on the car I resurrected the lock nut tool by cutting a pin punch down and sticking bits of it in the tool with lock tight. Removed the remaining lock bits and did away with them... if you can get any purchase on the bolt with the existing tool you really need to turn it square and with inward pressure. Either a rattle gun or an impact screwdriver (one you hit with a hammer) would be perfect.
 
Some tyre places have a tool,like a socket with a left hand thread in it ,
 
They are readily available in tool shops - Irwin and others make them. It isn't always possible to slip one on.
s-l300.jpg
 
I've successfully used whatever next size down, imperial, metric, allen or whatever, socket forcefully belted on when in the same predicament. Once off throw the lot away.

And if it's a matter of the nut being locked on and not moving, a short lever lifted by a jack and left alone with an occasional shock by a hammer tap, has worked for me too. Better than breaking my back with long pipes etc.
 
I had FOUR security lock nuts done in, on my 207cc Sport.

Got the dealership to drill them out for free. I purchased four standard bolts and had them fitted. No one steals these wheels in Oz.

FOR FREE: Because the dealership caused the problem.

TIP: NEVER let anyone 'rattle gun' the bolts in. You must use a hand wheel bolt remover to tighten them.
 
Thanks guys. We managed to get it out by drilling a hole down to the steel part of the bolt (the head itself is a soft alloy), then reaming a screw-nut extractor into the hole we had made and twisting what was left of the bolt out. He has ordered 4 std wheel lugs and throwing away that silly lock nut set.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top