Has anyone used an EGR or carbon cleaner spray?

Just a remap I suspect, will inform in a few weeks

hdi-tuning.co.uk/car/2-0-hdi-8v-90-bhp-2002-2005-bosch-edc15c2/
 
Revise that, just spoke with a mate who advised, remove egr valve, force it closed. Refit, Block vacuum to it and drive. Going to do exactly this, this weekend.
 
I believe the vacuum pipe needs to be rerouted not blocked so that depollution light doesn't keep going off, mine only flashes for a second and clears so hence EGR a bit dodgy, only 80k before I retire Carlo5 when he hits 400,000 so not in hurry to remove and clean/block
 
You guys referring the RHZ EGR, a vacuum unit, will confuse the OP. Let's be clear you are referring to an earlier 2.0HDi dimi's C5 'Carlo5'. It's different to the electro-mechanical RHR EGR valve.

Excess smoke can also be casued by a split or blocked turbo air pipe. It can split. There is also an intake pipe that can collapse under suction from memory and starve the engine of air. It's worth ehecking the mechanical intgrity of those parts.
 
If physically blocked off, does that require an ECU EGR delete?

The later here is NZ$500! (+ the 2hrs physcial work to get to the EGR) my 308 HDi RHR car is only worth NZ$4K max and at 215Kms
 
You guys referring the RHZ EGR, a vacuum unit, will confuse the OP. Let's be clear you are referring to an earlier 2.0HDi dimi's C5 'Carlo5'. It's different to the electro-mechanical RHR EGR valve.

Excess smoke can also be casued by a split or blocked turbo air pipe. It can split. There is also an intake pipe that can collapse under suction from memory and starve the engine of air. It's worth ehecking the mechanical intgrity of those parts.
it was Matthew's fault changing engine type through the post :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
 
The RHR is a physical block no more to pay and drive on. Cost $10AU and an hour of labour
 
I just spent an an hour looking over the 407 here. I spent a little bit of time and, er, "rebuilt" the EGR valve and guaranteed it was 100% leak free. Then I traced all the lines I could see from the inlet. I found one small vacuum line on the "thing" :confused: below the alternator with two small hoses connected to it had a split line when it pushed over the barb. I followed the induction down across the motor and up the back ... checked all of the hose clamps. I can't see higher than the plastic hose that runs up the back of the motor. At this point it dissappears into no-mans land that is invisble from above and below.

Anyway, I started it up .... it sounded much smoother at idle. I took it for a spin and it certainly seems to pull much more strongly ... night and day. And I can hear the turbo spooling stronger than before. I don't drive the car much, so I'll see what the boss women thinks after she's driven it tomorrow. I think the surging it could have at times has gone away too (I'd have to drive it much more to verify). So yeah, if you get the chance ... give that "EGR" valve a good, er, "rebuild".

I "rebuilt" the EGR on the XM when we had it too. Great stuff :dance: I probably should "rebuild" the EGR on the rcz at some point too. No doubt I'll wait for it to play up first though ....
 
My advice as I just have done, put 10-15 psi max into the EGR valve line, leave it for 30 minutes, seal up vacuum port going to EGR, leaving egr swinging and test drive, wonderful.
 
And I should add after connecting things backup and getting the same issues and redoing it, this proves beyond a doubt the egr is integral, pressure closes it and then make sure the vacuum line coming from pump is sealed so as to not wear out vacuum pump and affecting braking, very important. Also seal up EGR line end and fasten the lot, You're on your own this is not advisc in any form, just my learnings.
 
Shane , isn't your RCZ an RHH? If it is, the EGR is a very different and more complex beast, mounted on the front of the engine.
 
Shane , isn't your RCZ an RHH? If it is, the EGR is a very different and more complex beast, mounted on the front of the engine.

Yeah, I'm lazy though, so no doubt I'll not touch it until it causes issues. Does it have a pressure sensor in it ?
 
It's very different from earlier EGR systems, to suit Euro 5 engines, designed by Valeo. The exhaust manifold has an extra port to a passage that goes right through the head to the front. The unit is front mounted, with an electrically controlled and driven motorised valve. Operation is by signal from the ECU,

Attached is a water jacket with a butterfly valve to either divert gas flow through the jacket, or bypass it. Flow then proceeds to an outlet inside the flat plastic manifold fitting. The cooler bypass butterfly is driven by vacuum. The solenoid is at the rear of the head. The plastic manifold includes vacuum reservoirs at the back that feed the valves.

Removal of the jacket is barred - else it will leak.
egr valve.png
egr fitting.jpeg
 
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It's very different from earlier EGR systems, to suit Euro 5 engines, designed by Valeo. The exhaust manifold has an extra port to a passage that goes right through the head to the front. The unit is front mounted, with an electrically controlled and driven motorised valve. Operation is by signal from the ECU,

Attached is a water jacket with a butterfly valve to either divert gas flow through the jacket, or bypass it. Flow then proceeds to an outlet inside the flat plastic manifold fitting. The cooler bypass butterfly is driven by vacuum. The solenoid is at the rear of the head. The plastic manifold includes vacuum reservoirs at the back that feed the valves.

Removal of the jacket is barred - else it will leak.
View attachment 218601View attachment 218602

Interesting, so the fix isn't just to block of the exhaust and allow the rest to just "work". as it would never know its not actually getting any exhaust through :confused:
 
You certainly can't slip a plate behind the machined exhaust manifold.
 
It can be capped at the flange where the gas leaves the unit. I have a how-to. There is a great deal of dismantling and reassembly to do.

But why? It doesn't give trouble in my experience.
 
All I posted a quick update to my EGR issue here interestingly the spring loaded mechanical actuator did not move freely so it appears I had a mechanical fault with it but I may try cleaning to see if that frees it up so I can keep as a spare.

Being a novice can mineral turpentine (white spirits) be used as suitable cleaner for removing carbon?
 
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