haltech E6A,E6S,E6K

Dave

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I have a carbied bx with a fast road cam, and i have a wrecked bx tri 122 which has motronic fuel injection. I want to put the fuel injection onto my BxGT.
The manifold and injectors will bolt up fine as my gt actually has a tri (not tri 122) engine in it. However the when the gt got this engine they kept the carby set up rather than installing the injection.
To run this injection i am considering either and E6A, E6S, or E6K (all essentially the same, just depends on what i can get hold of at the right price when the time comes). I was wondering who has used this ecu before, and whether you installed and tune it yourself and what your experiences are. Does it come with a base map to get you started? how complicated is it to use?
Can some of the standard sensors be reused (eg TPS, air temp and coolant temp sensors)??
I know the airflow meter gets swapped for a MAP sensor.
Any idea where i could look for one of these second hand??
Any other hidden costs to get the car going as long as the kit is complete?

cheers, cheers!

Dave
 
Dave,
whilst I can't guarentee it, the Haltech conversion should be relatively straight forward. I'm not entirely familiar with a TRI. Which is the equivalent engine in a Pug? The unknown is the electrical values of your air and coolant temp. sensors. On the Mi16 they are almost identical to the Haletch sensors, so they can be left in place. The TPS has to be replaced with the Haltech unit. This will require making a small adaptor plate. The Haltech TPS will fit the existing shaft. This is actually optional, but usefull for closed loop settings. You will have to add a MAP sensor. This is used to determine engine load. You have a choice with the airflow meter. If you want to run fuel only (the easiest conversion) leave the AFM in place to determine load for the stock ECU. The stock ECU can do spark and the Haltech fuel. Some leave the AFM housing in place, but remove the vane, to keep the authorities happy. The starting point however, is working out how you're going to trigger the Haltech. How is the existing ECU triggered? The Haltech needs a 5-12V square wave input. I currently trigger mine from the ignition out of the Motronic ECU, but run fuel only. This gives the right output, but is timed. ie it varies with ignition advance. If you want the Haltech to control fuel and spark, you need a reliable input which fires between 60 to 90 deg. BTDC. The exact position is not critical, but you must know where it is, so it can be entered into the software. The choice of Haltech model isn't important on a TRI. The later Haltechs have faster processors to handle higher rpms. Even an E6 is a great choice if you find one second hand. You can purchase a semi finished harness for any model, which makes integration into the existing loom very easy. I can give you a base map to start with. I can also send you the software. It's very easy to use. Send me an email if you're interested
 
I've been looking round on the net for 2nd hand haltechs, and they seem to be pretty rare. I cant afford to buy one new ($1600 not including map sensor).
I've been having a read about the Wolf 3d version 4; which seems to be of pretty decent spec these days. I can get one of these new for $1095 and this comes with an inbuilt map sensor, so there should be no hidden costs.
So does anyone have any feedback on this product?
thanks for your help!!

Dave
 
Have a look at Performance Forums as there are a few guys selling various aftermarket computers there
Alan.
 
Alan,
i am DaveBxGT in PF, yea i saw the F9 and the E6s (GOD20L??)there but i think the E6s got sold a while ago.
And the E6k for sale (sejenus)was still about 1500 bucks and was set up for a wrx. Those are the only haltechs i've seen there for sale in the last few months.

Alternatively i've been looking at hawk ecu's aswell these seem to be a relatively new entry to the market but seem good. Anyone got any feedback on them??
cheers,

Dave
 
There's currently two possibilities in the Trading Post. An E6GMV2 at Fairfield and an F3 at Riverstone. Both are in packages, but who knows, they might separate. The fuel only F3 would be a good buy at $300. The E6GMV2 $600-$700. The E6GMV2 has a GM harness connector, but could still be used on another make. Check with Haltech first.
 
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