Gasket sealers for DS23 engine rebuild

In metal to metal situations it cures adequately in about 10 minutes.
However in this situation, where the fluid pressure is very low, the viscosity of the 515 is enough.
It's only on high pressure sealing jobs (over 2 or 3 bar) that I ever wait for cure.
hi Bob, any advice on after i cleanup the flakey rust in my water jackets should I put some rust converter on?
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I think you'll find that a lot of that crud is a scale build up rather than actual rust.
I suggest you have 2 choices.
Either, give it a going over with a wire brush to remove the bulk of it, and then build the engine.
Or, get it bead blasted back to bare metal, and apply special paint designed for the inside of engine blocks. I can't tell you what that paint is, 'cos I've never used it, but I've seen it, usually brown or orange.

I've always taken the first option, and never had a problem. If you maintain a good level of anti corrosive coolant mix it will prevent any future deterioration.

The reason why old engines look like this, is 'cos until the '70s people paid very little attention to coolant mixes, specially to the anti corrosive properties of them.
It was with the more widespread use of alloy heads, then blocks, that corrosion became something needing preventative action.
 
I think you'll find that a lot of that crud is a scale build up rather than actual rust.
I suggest you have 2 choices.
Either, give it a going over with a wire brush to remove the bulk of it, and then build the engine.
Or, get it bead blasted back to bare metal, and apply special paint designed for the inside of engine blocks. I can't tell you what that paint is, 'cos I've never used it, but I've seen it, usually brown or orange.

I've always taken the first option, and never had a problem. If you maintain a good level of anti corrosive coolant mix it will prevent any future deterioration.

The reason why old engines look like this, is 'cos until the '70s people paid very little attention to coolant mixes, specially to the anti corrosive properties of them.
It was with the more widespread use of alloy heads, then blocks, that corrosion became something needing preventative action.
Think I’ll go with choice 1 not looking to bad after a few hours of wire brushing.
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Yes it looks ok. I see one rather deep pit there, but if it still has some metal thickness left it'll be ok.
 
on a related topic - any suggestions here?
These are nuts holding down a rocker cover. Someone has added the fiber washers, but it looks like the oil is coming out between the nuts and the steel washers.

View attachment 135204

Cheers,
Andrew
Use dowty washers, from places like Repco or hydraulic specialists. They're steel washers with rubber seal inserts. Common they is and look better than a finger full of poo around the nuts. Cheers
 
In a lot of situations Dowty washers are excellent, and they may be here.
However, the sealing lip is at the very inside of the washer surface..... thus, if the hole in the piece you are trying to seal is bigger than the id of the washer, it won't necessarily seal.
Ah, you say.... use a bigger Dowty washer.
However there is no way to keep it concentric during tightening... and again it might leak.
Certainly consider it, but check the hole diameter of the sealing face.
 
In a lot of situations Dowty washers are excellent, and they may be here.
However, the sealing lip is at the very inside of the washer surface..... thus, if the hole in the piece you are trying to seal is bigger than the id of the washer, it won't necessarily seal.
Ah, you say.... use a bigger Dowty washer.
However there is no way to keep it concentric during tightening... and again it might leak.
Certainly consider it, but check the hole diameter of the sealing face.
found these a few days ago on ebay:
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Fingers crossed, they should be exactly the right size :cool:
 
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