gasket makers

It certainly isn't - it's thick like a silicone, but not particularly rubbery and very adherent. I have used the aviation goo for years on gearboxes and the like. It's an easy remove with a scraper.

Is it a version of urethane adhesive possibly? mongrel stuff to scrape off!
 
It might be. It is as hard to get off as Sikaflex. You have to prise off the sump, probably deforming the sealing face, and then chisel the hardened stuff off both surfaces. Then you repair the damage to the sump surface.
 
It might be. It is as hard to get off as Sikaflex. You have to prise off the sump, probably deforming the sealing face, and then chisel the hardened stuff off both surfaces. Then you repair the damage to the sump surface.
I like the sikaflex products, and they seem to have particular types to do particular jobs, but having bought some large gun type adhesive/sealers they have a limited shelf life and were fairly expensive to buy when I did- round the $18 mark. These days with less call on my back-up stock, I often find they have gone off, though occasionally I can cut one open and in the middle they is just enough to do a small job. The Hylomar sealant was excellent for gaskets, but has a very limited shelf life even in small tubes.

Gone are the days that you could go to a trash and Treasure market and buy good bulk sealant for very little money. Years ago I saw that Addo used advertise the leftovers from current building/car jobs as he was a stickler for using only current product on his customers jobs and donating that residue on the Forum. I wonder if any current forum members remember getting those free products?

Ken.
 
I have been using Loctite 567 for gearboxes after the synthetic oil I was using reacted with Loctite 515, it tuned the oil into a thick sludge, and have not had a problem since.
 
I have been using Loctite 567 for gearboxes after the synthetic oil I was using reacted with Loctite 515, it tuned the oil into a thick sludge, and have not had a problem since.
Damn, I used permatex aenorabic (which is probably 515) to re-assmeble the tractions gearbox!
 
For sumps, I glue the cork gasket to the block face, and grease the sump and bolt them together. It seals but also comes off easily and can be replaced reasonably successfully at least once, leak-wise, if you have to pull the thing off (e.g. oil pump).
 
Just use Threebond for everything and forget about all that stuff hanging around the garage. If you build an engine it is economical too, because you use the whole tube so nothing goes to waste (though I did keep a Threebond tube for about 10 years and it was still fresh). It is not acetic cure either so safe for potting electronics too, which I do occasionally.

Comes off very clean after it sets, just don't try to clean up your mess when it's still wet.
 
It seems to me that one should be confident enough with the work they are doing to seal things correctly & not really be that concerned about re-doing @ a later date. Cost of the sealant should not be a real consideration, just effectiveness @ doing the task.

In these days when people are being paid [if they are working] double per hour what a tube of sealant costs, it's frankly unbelievable folk complain about spending $20. A couple of beers @ the club!
If a tube goes off quickly, but it does the job first time, requires no re-work & the leaking is not an ongoing issue, so what?

I recently had an R16 transmission that leaked like a sieve.

Found & used this product I'd never heard of previously :-

Permatex 81182 Gear Oil RTV Gasket Maker​

Combined with sealing the threads on the differential bearing nuts [probably where most of the oil was wicking], new shaft seals & speedi sleeves ~ not a drip.
Plus the transmission oil is filled to correct level so the bottom of the seal lips are always partially under oil.

I would use this sealant in any application where oil needs to be sealed including gasket both sides on a properly straightened oil pan & fixed holes deformed from previous over-tightening, as it is especially formulated for this type application.

Have no idea how it comes off, as I have no intention of going there again.

Job Done!
 
It must be nice to be perfect.
Nothing about being perfect.
Do the job right & do it once, is an adage one can learn.
I addressed the topic, not a person & offered a good suggestion with reasoning, not to be put down by someone who has not contributed @ all.
Take it or leave it.
 
BTW I was of the opinion that anyone involved in motor sport would be really interested in anything that will stop oil leaks.
Permatex 81182 Gear Oil RTV Gasket Maker does just that.
 
BTW I was of the opinion that anyone involved in motor sport would be really interested in anything that will stop oil leaks.
Permatex 81182 Gear Oil RTV Gasket Maker does just that.
Of course we are concerned about oil leaks in motorsport but there’s also the ongoing modifications that require removal, disassembly, cleaning, reassembly etc.
So it’s not always a case of ‘do it just once’.
 
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For sumps, I glue the cork gasket to the block face, and grease the sump and bolt them together. It seals but also comes off easily and can be replaced reasonably successfully at least once, leak-wise, if you have to pull the thing off (e.g. oil pump).
Cork gaskets should be soaked in water the day before. Install no sealants, works perfectly as intended.
Other areas, I also like Corn Flake boxes, they seem to have the correct gasket characteristics
 
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Cork gaskets should be soaked in water the day before. Install no sealants, works perfectly as intended.
Other areas, I also like Corn Flake boxes, they seem to have the correct gasket characteristics
Probably getting hard to find now, but I have used the front & back covers of phone books.
 
Probably getting hard to find now, but I have used the front & back covers of phone books.
With those you would cover every gasket part number known
 
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It seems to me that one should be confident enough with the work they are doing to seal things correctly & not really be that concerned about re-doing @ a later date. Cost of the sealant should not be a real consideration, just effectiveness @ doing the task.

In these days when people are being paid [if they are working] double per hour what a tube of sealant costs, it's frankly unbelievable folk complain about spending $20. A couple of beers @ the club!
If a tube goes off quickly, but it does the job first time, requires no re-work & the leaking is not an ongoing issue, so what?

I recently had an R16 transmission that leaked like a sieve.

Found & used this product I'd never heard of previously :-

Permatex 81182 Gear Oil RTV Gasket Maker​

Combined with sealing the threads on the differential bearing nuts [probably where most of the oil was wicking], new shaft seals & speedi sleeves ~ not a drip.
Plus the transmission oil is filled to correct level so the bottom of the seal lips are always partially under oil.

I would use this sealant in any application where oil needs to be sealed including gasket both sides on a properly straightened oil pan & fixed holes deformed from previous over-tightening, as it is especially formulated for this type application.

Have no idea how it comes off, as I have no intention of going there again.

Job Done!
Thanks for the recommendation Never seen that product. Agree re those wicking sources too!

No argument from me about doing it properly the first time, or trying very hard to. The 4CV/Dauphine cork gaskets are OK actually, if soaked and fitted correctly (not that "properly" looks quite logical but it works!), quite a challenge from underneath if the worst happens.
 
Here are my favourite products for building engines:
ThreeBond 1211 - any metal-metal seal eg sumps, thermostat housings, copper head gaskets
Loctite 549 - thread sealer, which unlike thread tape, you can leave in any location as it locks as well
Loctite 243 - med strength for flywheel bolts, oil spray retaining bolts etc.
Loctite Copper Maxx - to replace any exhaust gaskets
Can I just get some clarification here please. Do you use ThreeBond in conjunction with the paper gasket, for example with water pump to housing; water pump housing to head?
 
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