Seems there is a break between fixing up my kids Fuegos,
so decided to do a bit of maintenance on my own cars.
The 86 has been getting a bit harder to start and was
running a bit roughly and since I hadn't changed the plugs
since I purchased it at 40,000 plus km and it was now
just over 70,000 km, decided to do the job.
Its not particularly hard (if you have got the right tools) but
#3 and #4 (bearing in mind the # 1 cyclinder is towards the
rear of the engine) are a bit harder.
I found that you can buy an ideal tool for removing and replacing
all but the #3 very cheaply at Clints (Victorian cheaper hardware
store) its a long Tee handle with the 5/8 plug spanner on a swivel
end, it is about 22 inches from T handle to the end of the plug spanner
and I think I paid about $3.98, last I looked they were well under $5.
it has blue plastic insulation on the handles and down the shank.
It has just the right length to get in easily between/below the hoses
(some may need removing) and if you stop the swivel action from
flopping about with a bit of plastic electrical tape wrapped around the
joint it is easy to manouvre it onto the plug and the rubber protector
grips the plugs for easy removal and replacement.
Only caution I have is that when you are undoing the plugs there is a
bit of spring in the T handle and when the plug starts to move the flex
will jar your hands if you are not prepared for the release (don't worry
it will be o.k. the next time!!!)
Before tackling the plugs I remove the air cleaner to Carby intake, undoing
the 3 8mm nuts on top of the carby. Note here that if those are nyloc nuts
they tend to undo the stud, after a time the stud where it beds down into the
carby tends to wear the diecast threads, so I usually file the nyloc end away
and use the nut as is. I also use pliers to bed the stud into the diecast with
threadlock (or araldite) and you will then find the studs stay in the top of the
carby. (8mm nuts rarely cross thread or damage so there should be no
problem with this fix) a bit of blue hylomar also helps seal up the intake on
re-assembly)
Now to the plugs. I usually do the #3 as it is the hardest to get at, and it is
best that you do one lead/plug at a time, then you have no problems with
which lead goes to what plug!! The number three requires a plug spanner
and adapter about four and a quarter inches long. I bought a Repco 5/8"
RT1808 3/8th square plug spanner and teamed it up with an el cheapo
3/8" square swivel adapter puchased at a Trash and treasure market.
You also tape up the swivel with plastic electrical tape so it can be easily
guided onto the plug. then use either a 3/8 square bar to undo the plug
or alternativly a small rachet spanner will fit in between the carby and to
the side of the solenoid cutout, then its easy to remove and just as easy to
replace.
Incidently if you are purchasing tools to use on your Fuego I have found that
a small Stanley cased set of small sockets (quarter inch square) is just so
handy to have around. It has sockets 4mm to 13mm and imperial 5/32" to
1/2" as well as small bits for torx 10,15,20,25 and hex 3 to 6 plus various
screw bits. I also added a Teng tools 6" extension bar and a small swivel
socket setup. This does most jobs on the Fuego.
With an el cheapo adaptor I find that this is small enough to get into the
confined area of the carby #3 plug and dead easy to use.
The next one to tackle is the #4 at the radiator end the el cheapo T bar
is long enough to get in between the hoses and onto the plug, but still
has enough clearance to turn the T handle - best way to protect yourself
from the jarring is to brace/steady your hands against your chest, it stops
the handles springing back on you - easy from there on. The tape on the
swivel stiffens the joint up just enough that you get good control as you
reinsert the plug in the thread of the head. It should always screw in
easily, take care not to force it as the plug thread aligns with the plughole.
The last two (#1 & #2) are so easy as you can see what you are doing...
Note plug gap is 22 thou. I usually use NGK BP6EFS plugs, but this time I
am trying out a set of Valeo C72H from European Autos - the plugs that
came out of the motor were Bosch Super RO 365, they looked o.k. so
as I am on the original set of plug wires, this may need replacing if things
have not improved.
For those that do their own plugs, you don't need this post. Hopefully
for those who like to learn how to....I hope this will help.
Regards. Ken.
Bring your Fuego to the Picnic at Hanging Rock Sunday 9th February -
meet at Calder Raceway Service Road 9-30am look for the Renaults!!
and don't forget the All French Car day Sunday 23rd february, Essendon
Airport Car park, Matthews avenue before 10am..
so decided to do a bit of maintenance on my own cars.
The 86 has been getting a bit harder to start and was
running a bit roughly and since I hadn't changed the plugs
since I purchased it at 40,000 plus km and it was now
just over 70,000 km, decided to do the job.
Its not particularly hard (if you have got the right tools) but
#3 and #4 (bearing in mind the # 1 cyclinder is towards the
rear of the engine) are a bit harder.
I found that you can buy an ideal tool for removing and replacing
all but the #3 very cheaply at Clints (Victorian cheaper hardware
store) its a long Tee handle with the 5/8 plug spanner on a swivel
end, it is about 22 inches from T handle to the end of the plug spanner
and I think I paid about $3.98, last I looked they were well under $5.
it has blue plastic insulation on the handles and down the shank.
It has just the right length to get in easily between/below the hoses
(some may need removing) and if you stop the swivel action from
flopping about with a bit of plastic electrical tape wrapped around the
joint it is easy to manouvre it onto the plug and the rubber protector
grips the plugs for easy removal and replacement.
Only caution I have is that when you are undoing the plugs there is a
bit of spring in the T handle and when the plug starts to move the flex
will jar your hands if you are not prepared for the release (don't worry
it will be o.k. the next time!!!)
Before tackling the plugs I remove the air cleaner to Carby intake, undoing
the 3 8mm nuts on top of the carby. Note here that if those are nyloc nuts
they tend to undo the stud, after a time the stud where it beds down into the
carby tends to wear the diecast threads, so I usually file the nyloc end away
and use the nut as is. I also use pliers to bed the stud into the diecast with
threadlock (or araldite) and you will then find the studs stay in the top of the
carby. (8mm nuts rarely cross thread or damage so there should be no
problem with this fix) a bit of blue hylomar also helps seal up the intake on
re-assembly)
Now to the plugs. I usually do the #3 as it is the hardest to get at, and it is
best that you do one lead/plug at a time, then you have no problems with
which lead goes to what plug!! The number three requires a plug spanner
and adapter about four and a quarter inches long. I bought a Repco 5/8"
RT1808 3/8th square plug spanner and teamed it up with an el cheapo
3/8" square swivel adapter puchased at a Trash and treasure market.
You also tape up the swivel with plastic electrical tape so it can be easily
guided onto the plug. then use either a 3/8 square bar to undo the plug
or alternativly a small rachet spanner will fit in between the carby and to
the side of the solenoid cutout, then its easy to remove and just as easy to
replace.
Incidently if you are purchasing tools to use on your Fuego I have found that
a small Stanley cased set of small sockets (quarter inch square) is just so
handy to have around. It has sockets 4mm to 13mm and imperial 5/32" to
1/2" as well as small bits for torx 10,15,20,25 and hex 3 to 6 plus various
screw bits. I also added a Teng tools 6" extension bar and a small swivel
socket setup. This does most jobs on the Fuego.
With an el cheapo adaptor I find that this is small enough to get into the
confined area of the carby #3 plug and dead easy to use.
The next one to tackle is the #4 at the radiator end the el cheapo T bar
is long enough to get in between the hoses and onto the plug, but still
has enough clearance to turn the T handle - best way to protect yourself
from the jarring is to brace/steady your hands against your chest, it stops
the handles springing back on you - easy from there on. The tape on the
swivel stiffens the joint up just enough that you get good control as you
reinsert the plug in the thread of the head. It should always screw in
easily, take care not to force it as the plug thread aligns with the plughole.
The last two (#1 & #2) are so easy as you can see what you are doing...
Note plug gap is 22 thou. I usually use NGK BP6EFS plugs, but this time I
am trying out a set of Valeo C72H from European Autos - the plugs that
came out of the motor were Bosch Super RO 365, they looked o.k. so
as I am on the original set of plug wires, this may need replacing if things
have not improved.
For those that do their own plugs, you don't need this post. Hopefully
for those who like to learn how to....I hope this will help.
Regards. Ken.
Bring your Fuego to the Picnic at Hanging Rock Sunday 9th February -
meet at Calder Raceway Service Road 9-30am look for the Renaults!!
and don't forget the All French Car day Sunday 23rd february, Essendon
Airport Car park, Matthews avenue before 10am..
Now its two weeks to go to the next