EXTRACTING 68 SAFARI STARTER NEED REPLACEMENT

The Alternator light isn’t going off. This is the one I had reconditioned so I’ll ckeck that I’ve got it wired correctly. There are 3 wires. One goes to the positive of the battery - - one is a spade terminal that goes somewhere and the 3rd goes on a small bolt terminal- - - so I’ll have a look tomorrow. I've got a multi meter so I'll check with that - - if I know what I'm doing ???

John

The Safari alternator larger wire is live as it goes to the positive of the battery. The other two don't show on the test light when the ignition is on.
I checked the ID19B alternator and again the larger positive wire is live as it goes to the battery. The smaller one going to the spade terminal on the alternator lights up when the ignition is on.

So this means that there is a fault between the ignition switch and the spade terminal on the Safari.
I traced the spade terminal wire to a small electronic box at the battery. Also there is a positive feed wire coming from the coil which is the ignition wire. This wire also goes into the electronic box.
So the ignition feed is good but it seems that when this live positive goes into the electronic box it isn't live when it comes out to feed the spade terminal on the alternator. I'm wondering if there is a fault in the electronic box. There are other wires there also.
I do have some of the old style “cutout switches”.

John
 

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have you started the engine and checked voltage at the battery to see if the alternator is charging. sounds like its not. you could try running the ignition switch wire direct to the alternator to check it.
 
That 'electronic box' looks to be a replacement voltage regulator.

Ducellier alternator wires: This is what you should have, if you had the original voltage regulator: a fat wire between the battery and the '+' terminal of the alternator. A wire between the 'exc' terminal of the alternator and the 'exc' terminal on the voltage regulator (that electronic device of yours). A wire between the 'R' terminal of the voltage regulator and the 'Ind' terminal of the alternator. It's not marked, but the 'Ind' terminal (it stands for 'indicator') is the terminal sticking out of the large plastic vented cover. In your photo you have a red-tagged wire there. So that wire should be going to the 'R' terminal on the voltage regulator. Your alternator also has a "-" terminal on the back. That can be used to power a tacho if one is fitted, otherwise it's not used.

Hopefully your replacement voltage regulator is marked up with similar connections. Maybe not.....
 
Also, is that glass fuse inside your voltage regulator blown? Worth checking and re-seating.......
 
Thankyou, while listening to Macca on this Sunday morning I'll get to it - - - I do appreciate this support - - - did I see a fuse in there ??!!

Thanks, John
 
Thankyou, while listening to Macca on this Sunday morning I'll get to it - - - I do appreciate this support - - - did I see a fuse in there ??!!

Thanks, John
All going well now. Thankyou for pointing out the fuse as it had blown - - probably because of all the twisting & turning when getting the driver's side battery box out of the way.
So the reconditioned steering rack, the L/H side rear ram, the new 10 tooth starter and the reconditioned alternator are now doing fine - - - everything good !!!

Thankyou, thankyou, John
 
I thought this thread would be dead & buried by now - - -

We placed the D Special in my favourite working area and subsequently were able to get the Safari and ID19b out. Everything good but both have HEAVY steering which they didn’t before all the work was done.

I will continue to do the bleed screw on the regulator on each car but I am wondering if there are any other bleed screws maybe at the brake callipers or steering rack.

The ID19b was good enough to take for a decent drive but turning was still heavy. The Safari is worse at the moment. There are no leaks that I can see at the moment.

Also because I put the bonnet catch cables back after all the work, my adjustment was out on both so the pull knobs didn’t open the bonnets. I used my tools on both to - - open the bonnets.
The straight one is for the late “double headlight” Safari and the bent one for the “single” headlight ID19B.

It would be obvious that the ID19B has been modified with a number of Pallas features and single headlights installed as it is a 1968 model which came out with the double headlights. This is the way I bought it from Perth many years ago. The drive to Brisbane was a memorable road trip.
It had brown leather seats but I had some Pallas seats that I had upholstered in black leather to suit the roof. I thought that I would paint the driving lights the same colour as the guards when I bought it but quickly changed my mind as it just seems to look right. There are the stainless floor kick plates, Pallas hubcaps, rear lights, rear vision mirror and a few bits and bobs - - - so it’s a bit of a hybrid amongst the wonderful family of D’s in Australia.

John.

Thanks, John.
 

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There are bleed screws on each of the front brake calipers but they only bleed the brakes. The steering is self bleeding, turn the steering wheel from lock to lock a few times. When you turn the steering wheel, does the pump cut in?

The pump belts might be slipping or the tires might just need some air.
 
There are bleed screws on each of the front brake calipers but they only bleed the brakes. The steering is self bleeding, turn the steering wheel from lock to lock a few times. When you turn the steering wheel, does the pump cut in?

The pump belts might be slipping or the tires might just need some air.

Tyres and belts are fine. I think the pump might have cut in when turning the wheel.

I jacked the front wheels up on the ID19b.

With the motor going and pressure up when turning the steering wheel it is - -
tight – normal tight - - normal tight – normal - -going from left to right or right to left.
When I stop the motor and wait for the pressure to go down in the hydraulics it is quite easy to turn the steering wheel back and forth. This indicates to me that the differences are not mechanical. I will keep at it and maybe take it out for another drive.

I did loosen the steering rack on both cars to allow me to extract the long starter bolt so I’m thinking that maybe I upset something.

John.
 
Ah, sounds like you have change the lateral position of the rack relative to the clamps or rotated the rack. Measure from the centre of the pinon end cap to the centre of the steering relay shaft. You should get a measurement of 122.5mm +/- 2.5mm

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The next job is to align the pinion and steering column by rotating the rack in the clamps. There is a special too for this but you can get pretty close by grabbing both the pinion and column in one hand with a firm grip. The reason for the hard spots is because the pinion and steering column are out of alignment and are rotating eccentrically.
 
Ah, sounds like you have change the lateral position of the rack relative to the clamps or rotated the rack. Measure from the centre of the pinon end cap to the centre of the steering relay shaft. You should get a measurement of 122.5mm +/- 2.5mm

View attachment 136185

The next job is to align the pinion and steering column by rotating the rack in the clamps. There is a special too for this but you can get pretty close by grabbing both the pinion and column in one hand with a firm grip. The reason for the hard spots is because the pinion and steering column are out of alignment and are rotating eccentrically.
Okay, thanks. I'll have to go back to school but I'll see how I go.

Just for starters - - what is the pinon end cap ? - - and the steering relay shaft ??

I know I can be irritating here but you're dealing with someone who only just copes with these technicalities.

I'll keep at it - - - pull the battery box up and try to make sense of this.
Atleast you've shown me the direction that I'm going.

Thanks, John
 
The pinion end cap is on the back of the steering rack directly behind where the steering column connects. It's under the battery, remove the battery and plastic tray to reveal an access hole in the battery frame.

The steering relay sits just behind the rack on the side of the frame. There is a clamp which connects it to the rod coming from the centre of the rack. Measure to the centre of the splined shaft that the clamp is on.
 
The pinion end cap is on the back of the steering rack directly behind where the steering column connects. It's under the battery, remove the battery and plastic tray to reveal an access hole in the battery frame.

The steering relay sits just behind the rack on the side of the frame. There is a clamp which connects it to the rod coming from the centre of the rack. Measure to the centre of the splined shaft that the clamp is on
- - - it would be nice if I don't have to remove the battery carrier so I'll get to it.
I have just found a workshop manual that goes to DS21 red plastic cover- - probably about 1968 book No. 518 so
I'll have a look tonight

Thanks again.
 
The pinion end cap is on the back of the steering rack directly behind where the steering column connects. It's under the battery, remove the battery and plastic tray to reveal an access hole in the battery frame.

The steering relay sits just behind the rack on the side of the frame. There is a clamp which connects it to the rod coming from the centre of the rack. Measure to the centre of the splined shaft that the clamp is on.

- - and yes it didn't take long to remove the battery box.

I got the jist of what you were putting forward and checked the measurements. They were actually all as they should be.
I loosened both sides of the steering rack and pulled the part where the steering wheel connects in - - upwards, rotating the rack a little.

When you said it was out of alignment I figured that the rack was pointing down at the steering wheel connection.
I put it all back together and - - VOILA - it is perfect - - no tight spots, no hesitancy - - beautiful.

I suspect the same scenario with the Safari so after a drive in this ID19b I will get to that - - - oh what a beautiful car !!

Thankyou again to all - - - John.
 
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