EP80 transaxle oil

Correct! No, clean as a whistle the only time I dropped it (to pull the end off the gearbox and replace the selector rod seal. Not my favourite job in situ!! I re-used that oil it was so clean and I'd been careful. I might do a change this year.

Alan knows 100 times more than I do on this subject!
 
Hi all, have come across this thread whilst researching what transmission oil to get for my new daily. The car is a R12 TS with a R17 1647cc engine with a mild cam fitted in the late 80s, I believe by Collier’s. As the car is now getting on and much more power going through the box than standard I don’t want to mess around with an inferior oil.
Castrol Classic EP seems to be out of stock everywhere I have looked online, not so keen on VMX as some have had success and others not. Am leaning towards Red Line Lightweight Shockproof or Red Line 75W90NS GL-5 ( yes it’s a GL-5 but the blurb says it is fine for synchros and meant for transaxles). As before Red Line don’t say anything about Lightweight Shockproof in synchro box’s.
What is everyone’s updated opinion on this much discussed topic.
Had to read the thread a few times to digest it all🤪
In my R8, I run a 4 speed 330 strong box with a Quaife LSD. I do track days and hillclimbs.
I previously used Penrite Progear 75W90 synthetic with no complaints, smooth shift cold or hot.
I changed over to Redline Shockproof (Smurf blood) around 18 months ago.
Again no issues, except when cold I do notice changing gears can be a bit slow and stiff.
But once warmed up very smooth.
No evidence of any 'gold dust' but hardly surprising as I do only around 1000kms per year.
Worth the money? Time will tell.
 
In my R8, I run a 4 speed 330 strong box with a Quaife LSD. I do track days and hillclimbs.
I previously used Penrite Progear 75W90 synthetic with no complaints, smooth shift cold or hot.
I changed over to Redline Shockproof (Smurf blood) around 18 months ago.
Again no issues, except when cold I do notice changing gears can be a bit slow and stiff.
But once warmed up very smooth.
No evidence of any 'gold dust' but hardly surprising as I do only around 1000kms per year.
Worth the money? Time will tell.
Interesting. For me, I couldn't care less what gearbox oil costs but am very keen to preserve it. I don't want ever to have the thing out of the car again!
 
Thanks JohnW, it’s Alan you are referring to right?
Have either you or COL seen anything in the oil when you have dropped the oil?
I think I took a sample out somewhere in this thread and the oil was still good. If I get keen I might take a sample and see what its like.

The transaxle is still working fine and the gear shifts are still good, so don't expect there is any problems.
 
Interesting. For me, I couldn't care less what gearbox oil costs but am very keen to preserve it. I don't want ever to have the thing out of the car again!
I find that Renault transaxles are robust, the only time I have had any issues is when I run one dry in an old R12
 
Many years ago I ran the Castol VMX80 in my Renaults. No problems, and it even improved the synchros on a couple Fuegos that had been filled with 80W90. I have been using the Redline Lightweight Shockproof in some early Renault transaxles, and have it in my Alpine GTA Turbo as well as the BMW2002tii.

Perhaps the Redline MTL would be recommended by them, but I was told by another racer about the Shockproof maybe 15 years ago and have been using it since then.

I even use it in motorcycles that have a separate gearbox, although they are did selection and have no synchros.
 
Many years ago I ran the Castol VMX80 in my Renaults. No problems, and it even improved the synchros on a couple Fuegos that had been filled with 80W90. I have been using the Redline Lightweight Shockproof in some early Renault transaxles, and have it in my Alpine GTA Turbo as well as the BMW2002tii.

Perhaps the Redline MTL would be recommended by them, but I was told by another racer about the Shockproof maybe 15 years ago and have been using it since then.

I even use it in motorcycles that have a separate gearbox, although they are did selection and have no synchros.
Did being dog no doubt? :)
 
Stupid correction being applied by my IPhone.
Yes, dog selection gearboxes on most bikes, but many have the gearbox and engine lubricated by the same oil and so the Redline Lightweight Shockproof is unsuitable. Old Triumphs, BMWs and Moto Guzzis have separate gearboxes.
 
From about 1972 on Renault tended to specify EP80/GL4 for 4 speed and older gearboxes. For the 5 speeds starting to appear at the time it was EP80/GL5
There is no real yellow metals issue on post 68 stuff, but there are a few easy mistakes to make. People can be confused by Competiton spec oils, these especially if they are shockproof are usually for dog engagement boxes with no synchro. It's an easy mistake to make thinking I'm racing my Renault, I'll use a race oil, but a synchro box is not really a race box, but it's all we have, so we are stuck with it. The 2 things to remember is the oil must be an EP grade if it has a bevel crownwheel and pinion and it must be suitable for synchromesh. A recent discovery I have made in the UK is Millers 75-110 NT. My Dauph has a Cocktail gearbox and is not the quietest (esp 2nd) and the cold shift was slow. I was using a mix of EP80 and EP80/140 which was like molasses when cold. I tried the 75-110 and it is thin like sewing machine oil, but the change was unbelievable, the cold shift was excellent and got better and Damn me it was quieter (cold and hot) The only issue is that it likes to leak from everywhere it can. It is truly written `You can't win em all'
 
Hi all, after much reading and digging through spec sheets and repair manuals have decided on Redline 75W90NS GL-5 for both my R12 and Fuego. Changed both today, no golden oils found. Fuego had VMX80 ,the 12 had an unknown oil, heavy grade and greenish.Haven’t driven either yet, will post how they feel and drive.
Did not continue with using Castrol VMX80 as Castrol does not recommend it be used in hypoid transaxles.
 
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