EFI/Individual throttle bodies on old renaults

That is a good question but a highly hypoteticly one as there have been about 4-5days of snow the last couple of years. I hope that is a coincidence.
As far as I remember resistance increases with heat so I guess snow would help a bit.
Just out of interest does the cable feel warm when you have the kiln powered up?

For your 2.5mm² cable the mV/A.m @ 45° C is 16.2855 and @ 75° C is 18.018 so yes resistance does go up with temperature slightly.
 
Hi Reidar

What are you using to control the temperature of the kiln? is it a thermostat or some sort of temperature controller?

In one of your posts you said the temperature varies a bit.
 
Just out of interest does the cable feel warm when you have the kiln powered up?

For your 2.5mm² cable the mV/A.m @ 45° C is 16.2855 and @ 75° C is 18.018 so yes resistance does go up with temperature slightly.
The cable does not feel warm at all with the kiln powered ut. Then I would be worried. On the other hand there is 100m of it so in total it might produce a bit of heat.
 
Hi Reidar

What are you using to control the temperature of the kiln? is it a thermostat or some sort of temperature controller?

In one of your posts you said the temperature varies a bit.
I did buy a PIDcontroller for it but as its only rated to about 850C and even getting to 800C takes more than an hour I have not bothered to wire it up.
So the only temperature control is a cheap digital termometer with a selection of termocouples.
 
I did buy a PIDcontroller for it but as its only rated to about 850C and even getting to 800C takes more than an hour I have not bothered to wire it up.
So the only temperature control is a cheap digital termometer with a selection of termocouples.
A PID controller is the way to go to control the kiln, when tuned properly it will control to your set point. You have to remember that heating anything is a slow process.

What temperature do you require inside the kiln?

I assume that you are using type"k" thermocouples which can measure up to 1200° C
 
dont know what 2.5mm2 means ,two core TPS ? .if its flex .it could be different again ,would recommend 4mm but who knows what they have in Norway ,
 
A PID controller is the way to go to control the kiln, when tuned properly it will control to your set point. You have to remember that heating anything is a slow process.

What temperature do you require inside the kiln?

I assume that you are using type"k" thermocouples which can measure up to 1200° C
The termcouples I have used this far is of K type but of the type that is only a wire with a small «blob» at the end. Not sure they will stand 1200c.
I have also bought a few with a stainless probe I’ll try to dip in the melt.

This far I have only measured the temperature in the kiln. My thought have been that it is so slow up that the metal must be of the same temperature. Aluminium melts at 660 but the oxyde layer takes a bit higher to break. The temperature in the kiln have been far over 700c before before it has started to melt properly.
 
dont know what 2.5mm2 means ,two core TPS ? .if its flex .it could be different again ,would recommend 4mm but who knows what they have in Norway ,
By 2,5mm2 I mean that both the two current wires and the one for eart have a 2,5mm2 cross section. That means they are about 0.9mm thick. Its just a long extension cord really
 
i had a customer who lived in a caravan with his young family for over 12 mths on the end of 100 meters of extension lead ,while his house was being built ,.when he finally moved into his house we had to cut the plug off and pull the cord through the grass that had grown round it 100metres ,in the cow paddock [really ] .pugs ,he had to rotate the load ,ie hot water on after bed time etc
 
The termcouples I have used this far is of K type but of the type that is only a wire with a small «blob» at the end. Not sure they will stand 1200c.
I have also bought a few with a stainless probe I’ll try to dip in the melt.

This far I have only measured the temperature in the kiln. My thought have been that it is so slow up that the metal must be of the same temperature. Aluminium melts at 660 but the oxyde layer takes a bit higher to break. The temperature in the kiln have been far over 700c before before it has started to melt properly.The kiln may struggle to get to the required temperature
Hi Reidar

I would set your controller to its maximum and let the kiln run and see what the maximum temperature that can be achieved that is when it stops rising. The kiln may struggle to get to the required temperature.
 
Its still just a prototype but now its taking shape.

The injector holders is only 20mm witch is a bit small especially as I need to offset injectors a bit. The mentioned Skoda I plan to use the fuel rail from have 1mm bigger ss distance between all four inlet ports than the Renault, witch means the outer injectors needs to be put 1,5mm offset outwards and the inner ones by 0,5mm.
It might not be a problem at all. The injectors have big o-rings and a 1,5mm misalignment might be ok

the “bracket” for the rail have the same basic shape as the injector holders. Aesthetically it is a bit to big but it will be hiding under injectors and the rail.
 

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Although I have no experience on the issue... how far will those injectors live away from the valve, 50mm, 80mm? is ~1.5mm really going to cause that much of a headache?

Reckon you'll be cool :cool:

Also that looks fkn great!
 
Although I have no experience on the issue... how far will those injectors live away from the valve, 50mm, 80mm? is ~1.5mm really going to cause that much of a headache?

Reckon you'll be cool :cool:

Also that looks fkn great!
1,5mm offset is not a big deal at all. But there needs to be material to drill the injector holes into. The holes are going to be 13,5mm or so and I’m f they were to be drilled in the centre of the “bung” 20mm there would be left about 3mm material. 1,5mm offset would leave only 1,5mm on the outside of the injectors 1 and 4.

On the other hand if the injector holes were drilled in the centre of the bungs 1,5mm misalignment between the holes in the rail and in the inlet might be ok.

An inlet is one of the simples of engine parts but there is still a few things to think of.
 
A fellow Renault enthusiast asked me the other day if I knew of any good manifolds for the vedge 1300cc using one double downdraught carburettor. I did not but have seen one on the facebook group honouring the Argentinian racing ace Oreste Berta.
C58B8550-0248-469D-80B7-02772CBA3B01.png


This is a way more complicated than what I plan for my own engine but I thouht I would have a go at drawing up something similar. This is the result this far. I’m really struggeling with the design software. Could probably make up a wooden pattern in less time. But while being frustrating its also fun.

E91C376D-157D-48A2-9968-11973FCDEDF2.png
 
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