Thanks in advance, I’ve had issues with the car stuttering, especially at freeway speeds recently. I have to admit the fuel tank did run quite low prior to, even though another car has had the same issue. Wondering if the fuel is contaminated from point of purchase which was the same for both cars or if the fuel pump is on the way out. I had a look at the current setup which has the return line blocked. Do I order one with or without the return line? Ive read several posts have used a Bosch pump ending in 070 with success.
DS23ie fuel supply issues
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harrisson_citroen
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Yes, that's right , the Bosch pump will work well. All you do is screw a bolt into the return line and secure in place .
The original ds23 pump leaks on the outside when it is giving trouble.
given the tank ran low, I’d first be looking very closely at the in-tank and any other fuel filters. Lots of discussion about this recently on another thread here, but it’s amazing how much crud can be mobilised when fuel tanks are run low.
The DS ie tank sucker has no strainer fitted. The housing is there but no element.
There is a large in line filter between tank and pump. This is good because it removes crud from the tank, which you then remove by replacing the filter.
Most tank crud is fine particles of rust slowly forming inside the tank as it breathes moisture in from daily temperature fluctuations. This falls off the inside of the tank surfaces, slowly filling the filter with orange brown "clay".
The earlier 21 had the return from the pre-pressure regulating valve in the pump, connected by Tee to......The return from the secondary pressure regulating valve in the centre of the fuel manifold. The secondary should be set to 2.0 bar.
The one in the pump might be about 2.5 bar, but not adjustable.
The leakage from the pump is because the O-Ring that seals the assembly, flattens with age. It is not a sign of pump failure. It's very easy to replace this O-Ring (30x1.... or is it 30x1.5..... I can't remember)
The innards of the pump are very robust.
Just take pics as you disassemble, to make sure you assemble it the right way around.
The tank pickup is in a small "well" which has very small slots allowing the fuel in.
With the tank a bit low, tank crud can partially block these slots so the fuel flow in is insufficient, causing hiccups at high power.
This is not helped by the tank being setup for LHD road camber...... ie right side pickup.
A few months ago, I had a go at reconfiguring my tank for left side pickup, it is better, but not perfect, and I'm going to have another go at it.
I've done more km in the DS21 this year than it had in the previous 10 years, and it now runs much better than it did a year ago.
It seems that the ie really does like frequent use. I also replaced all the fiddly hoses on the fuel manifold, as the old ones were showing age cracks, and I made up a new injection wiring harness which got rid of several badly decomposing wires and connections.
There is a large in line filter between tank and pump. This is good because it removes crud from the tank, which you then remove by replacing the filter.
Most tank crud is fine particles of rust slowly forming inside the tank as it breathes moisture in from daily temperature fluctuations. This falls off the inside of the tank surfaces, slowly filling the filter with orange brown "clay".
The earlier 21 had the return from the pre-pressure regulating valve in the pump, connected by Tee to......The return from the secondary pressure regulating valve in the centre of the fuel manifold. The secondary should be set to 2.0 bar.
The one in the pump might be about 2.5 bar, but not adjustable.
The leakage from the pump is because the O-Ring that seals the assembly, flattens with age. It is not a sign of pump failure. It's very easy to replace this O-Ring (30x1.... or is it 30x1.5..... I can't remember)
The innards of the pump are very robust.
Just take pics as you disassemble, to make sure you assemble it the right way around.
The tank pickup is in a small "well" which has very small slots allowing the fuel in.
With the tank a bit low, tank crud can partially block these slots so the fuel flow in is insufficient, causing hiccups at high power.
This is not helped by the tank being setup for LHD road camber...... ie right side pickup.
A few months ago, I had a go at reconfiguring my tank for left side pickup, it is better, but not perfect, and I'm going to have another go at it.
I've done more km in the DS21 this year than it had in the previous 10 years, and it now runs much better than it did a year ago.
It seems that the ie really does like frequent use. I also replaced all the fiddly hoses on the fuel manifold, as the old ones were showing age cracks, and I made up a new injection wiring harness which got rid of several badly decomposing wires and connections.
Sounds like the original Bosch pump with three outlets has already been replaced. The easiest thing to do is to replace the fuel filter as there is a good chance it's been blocked up. A Ryco Z200 filter is a direct swap and is readily available from the usual suspects.
If you are going to use the Bosch 070 pump look into fitting a motor speed controller to slow it down. At 12V they shift about 200L/hr which is roughly double what the original pump shifts (80L/hr). The 070 pump will get noisy as it's not actually possible to pull that much fuel through the 8mm fuel line causing the fuel to boil under the slight negative pressure creating air bubbles in the pickup line.
The valve in the original pumps has two functions (non-return and over pressure) and operates much like the hydraulic pressure security valve. When the pump isn't producing pressure a spring pushes the slidevalve valve and closes the pump outlet to hold pressure in the fuel rail. If output pressure exceeds 3 or 5 bar (can't remember which) the valve is pushed over to open a return port and the pump cycles fuel back to the tank. Most of them are jammed and no longer work properly however you can get it moving again by blocking the pump outlet with a pressure gauge and forcing an over pressure situation.
Pump leaks from the pump housing are an easy fix, 2 30x1.5mm o-rings. Leaks from the motor body are much harder and require some brute force to open up the casing. Generally it's not worth doing unless you are dead set on originality.
If you are going to use the Bosch 070 pump look into fitting a motor speed controller to slow it down. At 12V they shift about 200L/hr which is roughly double what the original pump shifts (80L/hr). The 070 pump will get noisy as it's not actually possible to pull that much fuel through the 8mm fuel line causing the fuel to boil under the slight negative pressure creating air bubbles in the pickup line.
The valve in the original pumps has two functions (non-return and over pressure) and operates much like the hydraulic pressure security valve. When the pump isn't producing pressure a spring pushes the slidevalve valve and closes the pump outlet to hold pressure in the fuel rail. If output pressure exceeds 3 or 5 bar (can't remember which) the valve is pushed over to open a return port and the pump cycles fuel back to the tank. Most of them are jammed and no longer work properly however you can get it moving again by blocking the pump outlet with a pressure gauge and forcing an over pressure situation.
Pump leaks from the pump housing are an easy fix, 2 30x1.5mm o-rings. Leaks from the motor body are much harder and require some brute force to open up the casing. Generally it's not worth doing unless you are dead set on originality.
There was only 1 O-Ring in mine, between the pump body and the cap wth the connection ports.
There is also a shaft seal but that is very unlikely to be leaking.