DS23 Handbrake Stuck

ntr1972

ntr1972

Active member
Fellow Frogger
Joined
Aug 2, 2011
Messages
323
Location
Hobart, Australia
Got a small wee problem. It's about the handbrake on my DS23 1974. It is stuck.

Nicely parked in my driveway, but going nowhere fast. The release level just doesn't want to click like it normally does. Won't pull any further towards me to release.

Any ideas/discussion would be most helpful...:crazy:
 
ntr1972 said:
Got a small wee problem. It's about the handbrake on my DS23 1974. It is stuck.

Nicely parked in my driveway, but going nowhere fast. The release level just doesn't want to click like it normally does. Won't pull any further towards me to release.

Any ideas/discussion would be most helpful...:crazy:
Click to expand...

Have you accidentally turned the lock mechanism? Small knurled screw on the left side of the handle.

Cheers
Chris
 
This happened only recently on my 1960 French ID. I think it's the same mechanism as the later DS.
Looking at the handbrake handle,you'll notice a small adjusting screw with a locknut. Undo the locknut and unscrew adjusting screw anti-clockwise. This should release it.
It looks like this adjustment acts on the, for want of a better word, "grabber" that locks onto the curved shaft that holds the handbrake on. I hope this works for you. --- Michael
 
If its not the adjusting screw mentioned above the pin that the release lever pivots on may have made a bid for freedom. I replaced mibe on the side of the road with a length of fence wire, still good 4yrs later ;-)

Harley
 
I suffered the same fate a few years back at a CCCV BBQ, a whole heap of cars were blocked further up the driveway as I was the last car in. Did finally mange to get it released, from within the engine bay, from memory, and was able to let the other cars out.
The problem turned out to be the the bakelite trigger that had snapped at it pivot point within the tube of the handbrake lever. You can see the offending piece as the lower of the two in the photo below. The top piece is the new old stock item I was able to source locally. Der Franzoze probably has them in stock.
IMG_1033.jpg
The problem in replacing such a small piece is that the whole dashboard needs to be removed so that you can gain access to the nut that retains the bolt around which the hand break assembly pivots. This bolt protrudes into the cabin and is located in the space between the side wall and the driver's side (in Australia) air vent tube. See photo.
IMG_1039 - Version 2.jpg
Removing the dashboard is an effort in itself. I was sure there was a thread on it but an exhaustive search has not uncovered it, maybe it got lost in the crash, but I managed to do it by following my nose.
IMG_1026.jpg
Eventually you can get the whole hand break cabin assembly out and replace the trigger.
IMG_1035.jpg
Best of luck,
Dave
 
I think he is say 'Oh dear' do I really have to take the whole dashboard out!!!!!
I am sure any other suggestions will be gratefully accepted.
I had the same reaction when the heater matrix in the Xantia started to leak and I found I needed to do the same exercise.

Cheers,

Ken W
 
I'm not clear if this is a manual or an auto? The lockout on the handle and pictures are for the handbrake in a manual setup. The auto will have the pedal system like the BVH and the problem/cure would be different.
Given the nature of the beast, you do need a working handbrake as you have no backup in the event of a total loss of hydraulics (no redundancy!). However, even with a broken pivot, you might be able to release it by looking at how the parts fit together in the attached diagram. Item 6 locks on the curved rod and the release arm moves it. Maybe, removing the spring on the small linkage between 6 and the arm might free it? If that will not work, you could slacken off the cable adjuster at the firewall and then release the cable at the arms at the calipers. The springs are rather strong though.

DSHbrake.JPG
 
Last edited:
Mine is now rooted...
I've unstck it but rod (16) that sits in the little hole on the baker lite lever (4) which gets adjusted by the locking screw kept making a bid for freedom. ..
So I looked harder. ..
And this is what I found...
20140122_000028_zps02028573.jpg

So looks like dash out!
...

Harley

Sent via the future...
 
I pulled the dash out... what a task! I'd say the handbrake was an afterthought. ..
It was cracked worse than I realised.
It's all out and on the bench ready for the hot metal glue gun ;)
IMG_20140124_070139_zps63f33cdb.jpg

Most of the bullet connectors where fused together via corrosion and I enjoyed that the choke cable needed to be undone at the carby and pulled right through :what:

I've also removed the bearing for the steering column and given it a clean ready for some new grease.

Lots of dust and grit around the air vents, it would be nice to have it sealed up better!

Harley

Sent via the future...
 
Hi Harley,

Having been through this exact same problem with a LHD ID19B many years ago I would suggest trying to locate a decent used handle as opposed to either brazing/welding the duffed one. The area where they fail is very stressed. The metal is not very thick and heating with surrounding area with a torch to affect a repair, at least in the cases I have seen, only leads to a failure near the repaired area in somewhat short order.

Frankly, at least here in the States, a lot of the hand operated ones were replaced by the foot operated units out of a Pallas model. They fit and are much more substantial in construction.

Steve
 
Citroenfan said:
Hi Harley,


Frankly, at least here in the States, a lot of the hand operated ones were replaced by the foot operated units out of a Pallas model. They fit and are much more substantial in construction.

Steve
Click to expand...

Steve,
HERE in Australia, foot operated units are like hens teeth as we didn't have many late BVH equipped cars
AND
the brake operating cable for same is impossible to buy in the RHD version.

Not to mention, the complete removal of the old unit and replacement is an odious task, especially on a RHD car.

Harley, if you can find an unbroken donor unit for the hand operated lever, it would be a better solution.
 
Ahh. Thanks for the info guys.
I got excited about fitting a floor mounted e-brake, until the logistics of such a task where pointed out. :eek:

I'll give the weld reinforce route a go, guided by my brother who works with all sorts of stressed metal fabrication.

Cheers,

Harley

Sent via the future...
 
Harley said:
Ahh. Thanks for the info guys.
I got excited about fitting a floor mounted e-brake, until the logistics of such a task where pointed out. :eek:

I'll give the weld reinforce route a go, guided by my brother who works with all sorts of stressed metal fabrication.

Cheers,

Harley

Sent via the future...
Click to expand...

Harley,

Just as an aside - have seen ones repaired by quite knowledgeable metal people that failed within a year or so. Will keep various body parts crossed tightly that you don't suffer the same problem :). In all seriousness I would really suggest you try sorting out a decent used one and repair/refurbish the one in the car as a last resort.

Richo - You Aussies keep coming up with some of the lamest excuses for not doing things right to start with :). The length of the cable issue is a new one even for you...........

Steve
 
As they say in Australia, actually on Australia day ;)
"Maaaate, no worise!"

2mm plate stitched full length, either side of the weakened area plus a simple cross brace will see it far into the future, currently where I am sending this message from...

If 2mm was good enough for the citroen 2cv PO chassis reinforcement http://www.cats-citroen.net/citroen_atypes/po2x2.htmlI reckon it will hold my strong arm attempts!

Harley

Sent via the future...
 
Harley said:
As they say in Australia, actually on Australia day ;)
"Maaaate, no worise!"

2mm plate stitched full length, either side of the weakened area plus a simple cross brace will see it far into the future, currently where I am sending this message from...

If 2mm was good enough for the citroen 2cv PO chassis reinforcement Cats Citroën Net A-type P.O.I reckon it will hold my strong arm attempts!

Harley

Sent via the future...
Click to expand...

That page makes me think of Jeroen. I never personally met him, but he always seemed like such a cool dude. Sorry he's gone....
 
Fitting a foot park brake in a manual RHD D would be almost impossible or at least interesting when you're trying to clutch without braking!
 
UFO said:
Fitting a foot park brake in a manual RHD D would be almost impossible or at least interesting when you're trying to clutch without braking!
Click to expand...

Correct Craig.
There being considerably less real estate in the RH floor area.
Not experienced or factored by the frothing quick shooters on the wrong side of the road.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top