DS 21 Solex carb leaking at wire mesh fuel filter holding bolt

CharlieR

Member
Tadpole
Joined
Apr 25, 2019
Messages
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Location
Brisbane
The brass bolt that holds in the mesh fuel filter screen on the Solex carb on my DS 21 leaks! The thread is stripped it seems. As soon as I start the car, fuel pisses out.

What are some solutions? Can PFTE tape (or similar) be wrapped around the bolt to stop the leak in the short term? Rego is now due, so I need a quick fix to satisfy the pink-slip folk. Then I can go for a long term solution.

Charlie
 
If the thread is stripped, you will needed mechanical retention 'cos its subject to fuel pump pressure.
Normally the seal is in a tapered seat.....
Does that look right?
If the thread is stripped..... is it the thread in the carby die casting?
I reckon i would clean and dry it, and put it in with epoxy.
 
Is it the 28/36 SFIF ?
20211123_204501.jpg
 
The carb has the following markings: 27 F O 62 (see photo Solex CarbB).

The leaking bolt is highlighted in the other photo. The thread is in the pot metal.

If I epoxy it in, then I'd never be able to get it back out to clean the screen filter. Is that a real problem? There is an in-line fuel filter to capture the crud in the tank.
 

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If you are using an inline filter then the inlet mesh won't catch anything.
I'd suggest you epoxy it in without trying to apply a release agent, with or without the mesh in place.
If you do want to try a release agent, don't use oil as this will contaminate the epoxy. Use a smear of pva woodworking glue, allowed to dry fully. That makes a proper film of release agent.
 
If you are using an inline filter then the inlet mesh won't catch anything.
I'd suggest you epoxy it in without trying to apply a release agent, with or without the mesh in place.
If you do want to try a release agent, don't use oil as this will contaminate the epoxy. Use a smear of pva woodworking glue, allowed to dry fully. That makes a proper film of release agent.
excellent. I would never have thought of that :dance:
 
If you are using an inline filter then the inlet mesh won't catch anything.
I'd suggest you epoxy it in without trying to apply a release agent, with or without the mesh in place.
If you do want to try a release agent, don't use oil as this will contaminate the epoxy. Use a smear of pva woodworking glue, allowed to dry fully. That makes a proper film of release agent.
Thanks for that information! I'd never have thought of pva glue either. I agree that if there's an inline filter (and why would you NOT?) the mesh is not the slightest use. I imagine the mesh size is a bit less than the idle jet diameter!

What a perfect example of the value of Aussiefrogs. I saw the word "Solex" and thought I'd have a look......
 
Thanks for that information! I'd never have thought of pva glue either. I agree that if there's an inline filter (and why would you NOT?) the mesh is not the slightest use. I imagine the mesh size is a bit less than the idle jet diameter!

What a perfect example of the value of Aussiefrogs. I saw the word "Solex" and thought I'd have a look......
" why would you NOT?"

Why would you?

I prefer to not rethink the original designers fuel filtration system.
The mesh strainer is perfectly adequate.
Just because an inline filter takes out more fine stuff, doesn't make it better. The original system is maintainable with no cost or single use plastic.
It just needs to become part of routine maintenance, and don't be too heavy on the spanners.
 
Yes, fair enough I guess, although why not improve the filtration when it is cheap and easy. It may be that fine particles can build up and agglomerate but I've no evidence I admit. I'm careful to have my in line filter on the suction side of the pump.

I've also upgraded my air filter (both on my 1950 Renault 4CV, I should clarify) with a modern paper unit that fits in the original housing. I don't know about 1950 Citroen air filters but the mesh/felt arrangement in the Renault was hopeless.
 
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I forgot about using PVA. Glassfibre release agent is PVA, diluted until it is like water. A couple of coats of that would be ideal. I was paraphrasing the instructions given on JBWeld (that's my excuse)
 
Hi :)
Interesting about PVC as a release agent. I would never have thought of that. I doubt I would use locktite in that situation but the old diecast carbie bodies are hard to work with when they get old and crumbly. A small problem can escallate into finding a new one very easily.

On the subject of filters and the like being up dated to more modern items. Why not indeed. I do remember the 'good old days' well and it often consisted in having to do very regular maintenance to keep the cars going. What is the job this weekend ?? And the fuel we get now is not as good as it was in some ways so preventitive action seems a VERY GOOD IDEA IMHO.
Jaahn
 
Over the years, I've rescued lots of broken down cars by the side of the road, by removing the choked up inline filter.
Don't think it avoids routine maintenance.
I've never rescued a break down, by fitting an inline filter.
"Preventative action" is definitely worthwhile, but I can't see what is "prevented" by catching particles so fine that they have no effect on the car.
 
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UPDATE!!! SUCCESS!
I epoxied (JB Weld) the bolt in (using PVA glue as a release agent) this morning. No leaks when I turned on the ignition and the electric fuel pump whirred in to action this afternoon. Yay!!

Thanks Bob and all for your ideas and guidance.

Of course, I haven't tried removing the bolt - I'll save that for another day :)

cheers
Charlie
 
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