Dodgy idle on R20

Tom

Member
Fellow Frogger
Joined
Jan 9, 2003
Messages
32
Location
Adelaide
Just wondering if anyone out there has experienced a similar problem:

The idle on my R20 is doing really weird things - one minute it will sit perfectly just under 1,000rpm and then the thing will will carry on as if the idle jet has got some crap stuck in it. Eventually it always stalls. I've removed the idle jet and blown it out but there doesn't seem to be anything in it anyway.

I'm starting to think it might be an electrical problem as the radio has started playing up also - sometimes it works fine, other times it doesn't come on at all.

Could the ignition switch be a possible culprit? :spanner:
 
OK Tom,

the odds are your ignition switch is OK.

For the stalling business is your car an air con model?

If so you should check whether the solenoid idle valve on the side of the carb is working as the car will not idle without it. The actual wire leading to it can also crack causing intermittent faults.( the test there is to connect a live positive wire from the battery to the in put tag on the idle valve and see if the thing still stalls...or more easily when it is running well try manipulating the feeder wire and see if it stops)

The other issues could be the resistor/condensor thingy on the side of the distributor. If this is stuffed it will cause the spark to stuff the points and the thing will misbehave badly (very cheap fix but you will need to change the points as well- they'll be pitted). If you need to do the points, the distributor removal method is the easiest way to do it. Three bolts and you've got it off. I used to mark the distributor position on the head by tracing around it with texta before I took it off. When reinstalling it after fitting and adjusting the points be careful as it only fits one way. The two tags on the bottom of the distributor drive are actually assymetric and while you might be able to force fit the dizzie you could just be bending the components. The dizzie should be handfitted carefully and the bolts wound in by finger until your satisfied that the dizzie is not being force fitted - I wrecked the drive on a new dizzie by fitting it upside down and bending the drive tags in the process. It's no big deal just be careful.

Rotor and distributor cap need to be checked and the coil (corrosion where the HT lead plugs in will stuff things badly).

Plugs and leads need to be checked as well.

The anti poluution bits and pieces can also be a problem if they aren't in good order (act of desperation)

For the radio you will need to pull out the console and check the connectors at the back. Mine had a dodgy non original in line fuse holder that caused problems. Check that the earth is OK for the radio and that the aerial pug is properly inserted and hasn't shaken loose.

The fuse box itself and fuses could also be a problem. I had two series one models and they both had some issues with the fuse box, connectors and the odd dodgy ceramic fuse.

If you think it could be fuel related do you have an after market in line filter? Does it need replacing? Try flooding the carb with carb cleaner, clean the gauze filter on the carb intake itself....etc

Air cleaner?

I could go on but it's a matter of trial and error.

Go from the obvious and easy to the unlikely and difficult.

I hope this helps, they are top cars when everything is going well, but can be buggers to set up right if they're not.

Hope this is of some use.

:cheers:
 
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Bogmaster's reply is right. It is OK to remove the solenoid cut out by cutting off the end of the needle, this is what I do if I suspect a faulty one as they get sticky and only retract intermittently. The auto chokes sometimes don't go onto fast idle when the engine is cold and I have had foreign material just waft across a main jet and give intermittent stalling. Just remove the top of the carb and remove the main jets and see if there is any junk.
 
:renplak: Bit of a different ballpark but I had similar problem with my 03 RCS. Took them 6 months to diagnose and then 6 weeks to get me a new fuel pump! Check ya fuel pressure.
 
Bog covered most bases as usual!

My 20 had similar problems, both to do with dirt?rust in the jets and the carb solenoid. The choke does seem to be a bit stupid at times to, but I've found it's only when cold.

As for fuel supply I've had that too, but the problem should usually be loss of power under load.

cheers
leith
 
Thanks for your input guys. Just as an update, the last two days the car has run like a dream and I didn't do anything to fix it!
 
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