Dauphine gordini project

[4cvgordini]

I forgot about the droop straps (on 3-stud later wheel transaxles). R8G length is 330 mm & drive belt material (50 mm wide belt) works well. Use of conical washers, or some other variant, spreads the damping force beyond the hole a bit more. One could, of course, go shorter than 330 but a road car has to have some droop for rougher surfaced roads.

 

[Nacnud]

Hey thanks again for all of the advice.
Do I need a specific part to block the hole or just a rubber grommet that fits? Is this the part?

I got a fair way with the back panel once the ribs were cut out, they were holding the distortion in place. I'm thinking of putting in some stainless grill mesh.

There's still a fair bit of fitting to go on the back panel, not happy with the gaps and I'm going file the holes a fair bit more to smooth out the transitions.

 

[harrisonati]

Hey thanks again for all of the advice.
Do I need a specific part to block the hole or just a rubber grommet that fits? Is this the part?

I got a fair way with the back panel once the ribs were cut out, they were holding the distortion in place. I'm thinking of putting in some stainless grill mesh.

There's still a fair bit of fitting to go on the back panel, not happy with the gaps and I'm going file the holes a fair bit more to smooth out the transitions.

As a matter of convenience, I sourced a non-standard grommet, but I made sure that the rubber was oil resistant.

 

[Greenpeace]

I got a fair way with the back panel once the ribs were cut out, they were holding the distortion in place. I'm thinking of putting in some stainless grill mesh

You could scour the internet and try and find some of he aftermarket grills that were available.
Alternatively, if you are handy at CAD, draw a plan up, and get the local laser cutters to zap a couple out of stainless for you?

 

[Nacnud]

Thanks again for the input.

The progress today was putting on the side rear panels and checking it all fits. Other than the bonnet which sits higher in the middle on both sides of the rear panels the fit is passable. I was trying to bend and stretch the rear to fit so kinked it a little on the left hand side but it is easy enough to hammer out. Lots more welding and finishing to do. There's gaps either side because it's not all bolted together but lines up when pushed together.

Also put the muffler back on as I had taken it off to remove the bent bottom panel and took the air filter off, it had a lot of oil in it and is very heavy so will save a bit of weight in the back swapping it out.
There's a panel to the left of the radiator but not to the right, I assume that there should be as the radiator pulls the air through from the front and they are both there to channel the air to the radiator?

cheers!

 

[Nacnud]

Forgot to say thanks greenpeace, I'll seen those ones not sure how easy they would be to find but I'll have a look.

Another question! I had a look for tail light lens and the only ones I've seen are one piece units. The ones that came on the car where round ones on a chrome panel which I like more, maybe Australian issued ones? If anyone knows where I can find them, let me know, maybe I should post on the wanted section.

 

[Nacnud]

So I found a largish rust hole in the floor, not really a surprise but annoying still. A lot of welding done, not amazing welding too.

TO do something other than welding I took the steering wheel off, it had a lot of play at the wheel and I was curious to see what was wrong. The rubber washer had disintegrated and someone had run screws through to try and hold it together. I'd like put a three to six bolt wheel adapter on but the ones I've seen online have different 3 bolt spacing to the 44mm? centre to centre three bolt spacing the D has. Do I buy an adapter rotate it and drill the correct holes or is there one that fits out there?

Cheers!

 

[harrisonati]

So I found a largish rust hole in the floor, not really a surprise but annoying still. A lot of welding done, not amazing welding too.

TO do something other than welding I took the steering wheel off, it had a lot of play at the wheel and I was curious to see what was wrong. The rubber washer had disintegrated and someone had run screws through to try and hold it together. I'd like put a three to six bolt wheel adapter on but the ones I've seen online have different 3 bolt spacing to the 44mm? centre to centre three bolt spacing the D has. Do I buy an adapter rotate it and drill the correct holes or is there one that fits out there?

Cheers!

Whatever method you use, please be careful to centralise the rack in the exact straight ahead position then attach the steering wheel also exactly in the straight ahead orientation. The standard rack has self-centreing springs. It is important that they, the self-centreing through the castor and camber and the steering wheel are all centred at the same position.

 

[Greenpeace]

So I found a largish rust hole in the floor, not really a surprise but annoying still. A lot of welding done, not amazing welding too.

TO do something other than welding I took the steering wheel off, it had a lot of play at the wheel and I was curious to see what was wrong. The rubber washer had disintegrated and someone had run screws through to try and hold it together. I'd like put a three to six bolt wheel adapter on but the ones I've seen online have different 3 bolt spacing to the 44mm? centre to centre three bolt spacing the D has. Do I buy an adapter rotate it and drill the correct holes or is there one that fits out there?

Cheers!

The common 3 bolt pattern is a 1.75" PCD, 38mm between holes. Sparco, Sportline and MPI wheels are available with a 3 hole pattern on a 50.8mm PCD (which is really 2", but we have to metricify everything these days ). That 50.8mm PCD is very close to 44mm between the hole centers.

You can buy this adaptor on EBay for $24 delivered, it has both of the common 6 bolt patterns on it, however that 3 bolt pattern is the more common 1.75" Grant one.
But it wouldn't be much effort to either slot the holes out to your PCD (2mm on each hole) or just
drill your pattern into it.

I'll also include a link to a gaming website at the bottom. The adaptor there has the 50.8mm pattern, but only has the 70mm 6 bolt pattern on it (no 74mm pattern). Looks like those ones are $41 + GST.

SC2-70/50.8 Simucube PCD adapter

Top of the line sim racing components

simcore.com.au

 

[Greenpeace]

Slot them 3mm sorry, my bad.
Clamp it in the vice, position each hole at the bottom (one at a time), nice sharp rat tail file (roughly the same size as the hole), and Bob's your uncle.

 

[Nacnud]

Hey thanks greenpeace, slotting it out doesn't sound too difficult. Cheap adapters too. Good to remember to keep it all straight as well.

I've been trying to check a few things beford putting in an order, I know there'll be more orders but you know.
The accelerator pedals has a heap of play in it at the top, there's some bushing on Arnard, just checking if they are the right ones or it needs another sleeve as well? One either side? Maybe this is the wrong part.

I think I've got all of the rust from the floor, a corner section that I replaced attached.

 

[Nacnud]

The dust and filth stripping paint and rust. The front boot seemed as though it was really rusty but luckly none was rusted through.
There is a hole just underneath the battery compartment, looks a bit hacked so maybe someone cut it out for something unless there's a cover that is meant to go over it?

 

[Nacnud]

I've been a bit busy with other things unfortunately but still had some time to do a few jobs.

I have painted the whole of the inside and started putting in sound deadening. My old mini was so loud at speed so I'd really like to quiten the Dauphine down.

Also I was deliberating about the front section which has been bogged over, is bent and has rust sections, finally took it off. Definately the right thing to do as I can strip it and straighten it all out so much easier now. i forgot to take a picture of the front panel damage, will do and upload soon.

There's also a grate at the front, I'm guessing it's an air intake for the air filter pipe?

 

[JohnW]

Well, there is no shortage of good advice here for you! I'd pick up a few aspects, knowing the group of advisers you now have. Welcome to our RER community!

The standard Dauphine Gordini, like my standard R8, can just about keep up with modern traffic if you work it a bit on the hard side and will cruise at your local speed limit of 100 kph all day. They buzz a bit but are perfectly capable. The standard drum brakes are well up to the job too for normal driving IMHO but the discs are better and easier for maintenance (but perhaps higher pedal pressures).

You can make the car more drivable with a bit more power, for sure, and I'd say that will, as much as anything, make it more relaxing and enjoyable in traffic. The later all-synchro 330 gearbox is much better and stronger.

Some of us have Koni shock absorbers - one of the best additions to my R8.

None of what has been suggested is particularly difficult as much is pretty much bolt on stuff. Some would need engineering certification for licensing AND insurance.

Personally I'd be inclined to get to know the car as it is and then decide how much and which modifications you actually will appreciate. I wouldn't mess with the air intake at all. The rest, well, decide what improvements will actually help with what you decide you want from the car when it is really familiar to you.

Good luck with it. Have you joined either the Renault Car Club of Australia or our Renault 4CV Register of Australia? The advisers you now have are mostly members of the 4CV Register!

 

[JohnW]

I've been a bit busy with other things unfortunately but still had some time to do a few jobs.

I have painted the whole of the inside and started putting in sound deadening. My old mini was so loud at speed so I'd really like to quiten the Dauphine down.

Also I was deliberating about the front section which has been bogged over, is bent and has rust sections, finally took it off. Definately the right thing to do as I can strip it and straighten it all out so much easier now. i forgot to take a picture of the front panel damage, will do and upload soon.

There's also a grate at the front, I'm guessing it's an air intake for the air filter pipe?

I've used the same sound deadening in my R8. The roof had the greatest effect I'd say. You seem to have scored fairly well with the bodywork.

 

[Nacnud]

Well, there is no shortage of good advice here for you! I'd pick up a few aspects, knowing the group of advisers you now have. Welcome to our RER community!

The standard Dauphine Gordini, like my standard R8, can just about keep up with modern traffic if you work it a bit on the hard side and will cruise at your local speed limit of 100 kph all day. They buzz a bit but are perfectly capable. The standard drum brakes are well up to the job too for normal driving IMHO but the discs are better and easier for maintenance (but perhaps higher pedal pressures).

You can make the car more drivable with a bit more power, for sure, and I'd say that will, as much as anything, make it more relaxing and enjoyable in traffic. The later all-synchro 330 gearbox is much better and stronger.

Some of us have Koni shock absorbers - one of the best additions to my R8.

None of what has been suggested is particularly difficult as much is pretty much bolt on stuff. Some would need engineering certification for licensing AND insurance.

Personally I'd be inclined to get to know the car as it is and then decide how much and which modifications you actually will appreciate. I wouldn't mess with the air intake at all. The rest, well, decide what improvements will actually help with what you decide you want from the car when it is really familiar to you.

Good luck with it. Have you joined either the Renault Car Club of Australia or our Renault 4CV Register of Australia? The advisers you now have are mostly members of the 4CV Register!

Thanks John,
I'm planning on getting it going with a few minor modifications and see how it feels. Hopefully I like how it drives or there'll be a lot a mods in order!!!
I haven't joined the renault clubs yet, I'm planning on joining not sure if I it would be better to get the pink slip from the club or a mechanic?

 

[Nacnud]

I've used the same sound deadening in my R8. The roof had the greatest effect I'd say. You seem to have scored fairly well with the bodywork.

There's a fair bit of rust I've been cutting out and some panel damage but otherwise not too bad!

 

[JohnW]

Good plan. We all have different views of course, but Mr Harrison's Dauphine is a pretty good compromise I reckon. It has enough extra performance to drive reasonably comfortably in modern traffic yet looks bog standard. I doubt it would be much behind the R8 overall, if at all. A bit more go and Mr H's spring mods would be a good start once you are used to it and (inevitably) feel it could do with a bit more urge. Here he is at Nullarbor in 2020 when a few of us did a drive to WA. He did Brisbance and back, some 12,000 km.

Our 4CV Register doesn't do the pink slip thing. We're national to start with, so access and comms with experienced owners works well but we don't handle state-based concessional licensing. RCCA in NSW might do that stuff.

 

[Nacnud]

The front panels have been taking a lot of time, and other things getting in the way of working on the car.

They are fairly close, I need to weld back on and then see if I can get the bonnet to lower panel join a little better.

 

[JohnW]

The front panels have been taking a lot of time, and other things getting in the way of working on the car.

They are fairly close, I need to weld back on and then see if I can get the bonnet to lower panel join a little better.

Sounds good. You might find you exceed factory standards...