D SUPER 5 ANNOYING FRONT RHS. SUSPENSION RATTLE, ANY ANSWERS??

Worn out ball joints on the wishbones or anti roll bar drop link? Maybe a really loose anti roll bar bearing cap? There’s no rubber bushes to wear out. Are you sure it’s the suspension and not the drive shaft?
 
All good suggestions. I would be starting with the anti-roll-bar bearings. They are the usual suspect.

Roger
 
Worn out ball joints on the wishbones or anti roll bar drop link? Maybe a really loose anti roll bar bearing cap? There’s no rubber bushes to wear out. Are you sure it’s the suspension and not the drive shaft?
Thanks for getting me back, the b/ joints seem ok so did the roll bar links, i suspect the roll bar plastic bearings. On a normal car the sound woul d be 90% drop link related. ds`s Ive had in the past often had the same rattle...I just put up with it in those days....cheers don
 
On both our Ds, we had to replace the front bottom suspension arm. Over time water gets in to the bottom bearing housing.... you get the rest. Our problems both occurred on the passenger side which makes sense given puddles and rough road edges. This may not be your problem, but if the LHS has been replaced in the past, it might now be time for the right side.
 
On both our Ds, we had to replace the front bottom suspension arm. Over time water gets in to the bottom bearing housing.... you get the rest. Our problems both occurred on the passenger side which makes sense given puddles and rough road edges. This may not be your problem, but if the LHS has been replaced in the past, it might now be time for the right side.
On both our Ds, we had to replace the front bottom suspension arm. Over time water gets in to the bottom bearing housing.... you get the rest. Our problems both occurred on the passenger side which makes sense given puddles and rough road edges. This may not be your problem, but if the LHS has been replaced in the past, it might now be time for the right side.
On both our Ds, we had to replace the front bottom suspension arm. Over time water gets in to the bottom bearing housing.... you get the rest. Our problems both occurred on the passenger side which makes sense given puddles and rough road edges. This may not be your problem, but if the LHS has been replaced in the past, it might now be time for the right side.
 
Hi Don

I have a 1970 Dsuper also with a rattle only on the right side over sharp edges. I recently changed the anti-roll bearings on the right side and solved the rattle problem. Yippee

good luck with yours.
 
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Hi Ajaxvte the above shows you the roll bar admittedly the left side. You can see the bearings number 23.
So you need new bearings. You need to jack up and support the car. Remove mudguard. Wheel and liner to reveal the suspension. Check joints and anti roll bar bearings for slop. Undo the u bolts allowing the bearing cap to be lifted and replace bearings. Install with graphic and grease once installed. Put back together as you took it apart. Liner then wheel then Mudguard. All done.
good luck
 
Part number 27 the shim may or may not be present. Roll bars do not wear round but may be somewhat ellepitcal .. squashed on top. The manuals suggest a tightening torque, but is is quite light.
Citroen recommended a moly based black grease not elcheapo lithium stuff.
Part 28 is a spring loaded anti rattle "blade"... Just off to the left in the lower diagram is the quite serious spring that is effectively wedged into the cross member. IIRC there are two, one on each side. Too much for a hand to release. It may make accessing the lower ARB bearing a bit difficult. Best left undisturbed.
While poking around the left side, check to see height corrector pipes are not rubbing on anything. A hundred years ago I had one rub through on the roll bar.
The threaded cap on the roll bar links ( part 18 ) are easily removed .. remove the split pin and unscrew. Note the threaded position as the small pigtail spring is intended to be lightly preloaded only. Add grease here too as these are neglected. You may well be surprised to see the wear on the pigtail spring .. they are always in motion. If all is well do not disturb the threaded collar between the links the lower and upper roll bar joints.
 
Many thanks the last two replies. I am pulling the front end apart in any case to replace bumper bar section, get radiator leak repaired, re-gas accumulator sphere, refresh turning light mechanism and attend to a few other minor things. So will have a go at the anti-roll bar bearings, as the rattling has been driving me insane. Jobs for a six week lockdown in Melbourne!
 
Measure the position of the threaded sleeves and the distance between the balljoints before undoing anything. If memory serves it should be 198mm centre to centre but double check the manuals.

It's also worth checking the anti rattle springs inside the crossmember fist as I've heard others have had the anti-roll bar slip out of them. Incidentally, this can also be a cause of stiffness in the front suspension.
 
Would suggest you use graphite with the grease (not graphic).
 
Measure the position of the threaded sleeves and the distance between the balljoints before undoing anything. If memory serves it should be 198mm centre to centre but double check the manuals.

It's also worth checking the anti rattle springs inside the crossmember fist as I've heard others have had the anti-roll bar slip out of them. Incidentally, this can also be a cause of stiffness in the front suspension.

IIRC There is a variation in that centre to centre length between the left side and right side of the car. I suspect something to do with adjustment for road camber on RHD cars. I no longer have old manuals so others will need to confirm or deny my statement....and this being Aussiefrogs, someone surely will ! I also suspect the anti rattle springs were deleted altogether at some point.
 
So, to revive this thread, I have removed the LHF wheel and covering plates etc and cleaned things up. First question that comes to mind is that I don’t see how I can undo the U-bolts, remove the cap (#24) and replace the bearings without first removing the height corrector (and ensuring that the height selection arm/linkage on the side does not get in the way or damaged). Is this correct? I’ve been there before and it was a bit of a pain...

Also, I am assuming that I can simply open the roll bar linkage (#18) assembly to check the spring etc without having to play with the adjustment on the threaded sleeve between the upper and lower arms etc.
 
The factory manual does start by removing the front height corrector so i'd say there's no getting around that one.

You can take the ball joints apart without having to touch anything else. You'll need a 20mm wide x 3mm thick x 100mm long flat bar with a 90deg bend about 10mm from one end to undo the retaining ring.
 
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