D SUPER 5 ANNOYING FRONT RHS. SUSPENSION RATTLE, ANY ANSWERS??

Or a piece of flat bar to engage the slots and then just turn the bar with a shifter.
Remember to note the position that the original tiny split pin occupies....count the turns needed to undo...this will give you some idea of the "preload".... The spring is likely to be quite worn. They are conical not cylindrical as you can see from the exploded view, so they compress within themselves. They are expected to still function as a spring, over compression removes that ability.
 
Ok, I decided to do the right side as well as the left side, just to practice without the additional complication of the height corrector first. All goes well in removing the U-bolts and bearing cap, noting the little shims as well on either side of the bearing when I lifted the cap away. In actual fact there appears to be very little wear on this side - at least on the top bearing. My question now is how to remove the lower bearing, which is under the anti-roll bar. Or to ask another way, how best do I lift the bar in order to be able to remove the bearing?
 
It is not that high a lift that is needed really only the thickness of the plastic bearing part number 23. Note the small locating tags that will stop you from sliding the bearing out of the bottom housing.. From memory undo the top bearing by undoing the U bolts on both sides and the roll bar will be a relatively easy lift.
 
Ok thanks I had assumed it would be straightforward lift of the bar a few mm to free the bearing, but it isn’t turning out that way. I will persevere...
 
Be prepared for a fight to get the bar back into the lower bearing if the other end is still connected to the droplink. Normally when removing the anti-roll bar, both droplinks are undone first so the bar is free to move around with no forces applied to it. With it still connected to the droplink you have to fight the ball joints at the other end and the force applied by the wishbones to relocate it.
 
ajaxvte said:
Ok thanks I had assumed it would be straightforward lift of the bar a few mm to free the bearing, but it isn’t turning out that way. I will persevere...
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Jack up both sides of the car and place on stands. Work on both sides of the anti roll bar at the same time. This way it is relatively easy to remove the bearing halves as the only thing restraining a lift of the anti roll bar is the height corrector linkage. You may as well renew both sides as if one is worn the other will not be too far away in terms of wear!
 
gerrypro said:
Jack up both sides of the car and place on stands. Work on both sides of the anti roll bar at the same time. This way it is relatively easy to remove the bearing halves as the only thing restraining a lift of the anti roll bar is the height corrector linkage. You may as well renew both sides as if one is worn the other will not be too far away in terms of wear!
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Yep thanks doing exactly that as we speak. And finding out that the holes in the top (repro) replacement bearings were drilled slightly off-line, which is very annoying. Anyway, one side done and ready to tighten back down, the other just about done...
 
Hi again, You will have observed that only the top half shell is able to be greased with the nipple.. Apply a liberal amount to the lower half of the shell. While so much is exposed it would be sensible to grease the drop link balls as their grease nipples do not always line up nicely with the holes punched in the metal splash trays.
 
Done, many thanks all for your helpful advice. As usual, less daunting than it first appeared. I’ll see if it has made a difference in a week or two, once I have the rest of the car back together...
 
Have a look at the hubcaps .... They could rattle especially if they had a spring loose or broken in them! I'm pretty sure you'd pick the anti-rollbar bearings. That would be more of a thump/knock than a rattle. infact I'd expect a heavier noise from any suspension component rather than rattle. Rattle sounds like bodywork touching somewhere.
 
Many thanks all, today I replaced the springs in the anti-roll bar linkages...very straightforward (I used a 20mm chisel to undo the retaining rings), having finally received them from Citroen Classics in the UK (held up for sometime in Singapore). The old springs were definitely flatter, and on the left hand side had created slight grooves/indentations In the retaining ring wall. So it will be interesting to see if there is a difference. Main problems now in reassembling the car has been a damaged thread in the height corrector, but that’s another story for another time...
 
I promise this will be my last post in this thread, just to say the car is back together again now and operating well. Replacing the anti-roll bar threads and the linkage springs has made a big difference to the front end over corrugations - no more rattling, and a much smoother feel. So thanks to all who gave advice here.
 
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