And that, in one small example, explains why many of us love them. Such a brilliant combination of engineering and aesthetics.
It's not the only reason (uniquenesss counts for a lot to me) but it's an important one.
Roger
D Special rehabilitation
- Thread starter Greenpeace
- Start date
And that, in one small example, explains why many of us love them. Such a brilliant combination of engineering and aesthetics.
It's not the only reason (uniquenesss counts for a lot to me) but it's an important one.
Roger
I'd been battling a starting problem for the last month or so. A lot of winding over until it would finally fire, then what sounded like that ominous cylinder coolant leak misfire (that would clear after several seconds or so). No other head gasket symptoms however, not getting hot, not pushing excessive coolant into the overflow bottle.
Worked out if I put my jump start pack directly onto the coil it would start fairly quickly but it would still misfire.
Checked the voltage on the ballast resistor, 12V in and 5V out sitting static.
Start the car and 13V in and 10V out. Mmmmm.
Bypassed the resistor and the car would start easily but still misfire for several seconds.
The coil was getting red hot running with full voltage so I though bugger it and ordered a new 12V non resistor type coil.
It eventually showed up on Fri (after going to every Post Office in SE QLD).
Fitted it and the car now starts and runs as it should.
The old coil and ballast resistor present as brand new, but it would seem neither item is performing correctly. You can't judge a book by its cover.
Worked out if I put my jump start pack directly onto the coil it would start fairly quickly but it would still misfire.
Checked the voltage on the ballast resistor, 12V in and 5V out sitting static.
Start the car and 13V in and 10V out. Mmmmm.
Bypassed the resistor and the car would start easily but still misfire for several seconds.
The coil was getting red hot running with full voltage so I though bugger it and ordered a new 12V non resistor type coil.
It eventually showed up on Fri (after going to every Post Office in SE QLD).
Fitted it and the car now starts and runs as it should.
The old coil and ballast resistor present as brand new, but it would seem neither item is performing correctly. You can't judge a book by its cover.
Yep old ballast resistors are bad news. I reckon their resistance goes up over 50 years or so until the coil is running at less than 5 volts especially when you get stuck in traffic on a hot day.
Cheers, Ken
Cheers, Ken
I gave the car's brakes a bleed today as the front ones seemed to have all but disappeared. I dropped the 12mm spanner for the pressure regulator and could not find it. When I went for a test drive up past the quarries I was hooning round a fast, uphill, left hander and heard a "ting, ting, ting, ting". I took note of the next driveway's identifying features and stopped to look for the spanner on the way back. I found it straight away (the distance I am from the car in the photo). It's only a cheap sh#t spanner but all my other 12mm ones must have been observing the 10mm spanners' behaviours and have gone AWOL I might duck into town and buy a lotto ticket.
On a positive note the car stops now.
On another note I saw that the LH front tyre has scrubbed quite noticeably on the inside edge. The tyres have only done a few thousand Kms. There is no apparent play in the suspension and the car drives straiģht and true. Not being overly familiar with these car's nuances, can incorrect toe result in a tyre only wearing on one side of the car, and not on both front tyres like on a "regular" car?
On a positive note the car stops now. On another note I saw that the LH front tyre has scrubbed quite noticeably on the inside edge. The tyres have only done a few thousand Kms. There is no apparent play in the suspension and the car drives straiģht and true. Not being overly familiar with these car's nuances, can incorrect toe result in a tyre only wearing on one side of the car, and not on both front tyres like on a "regular" car?
I would take the thermostat out and see what happens
You only need to set the toe in .... you can use an extendable tent pole for all it matters 
Yes I'm thinking the toe is out. The thing I'm a little confused by is, that it is only the L side scrubbing. Every other car I've had where the toe has been out (enough to cause undue wear) has worn both tyres equally. Is this yet another Citroen oddity (only scrubbing on one side)?You only need to set the toe in .... you can use an extendable tent pole for all it matters
The camber of the road can cause the left hand side to scrub more than the right.
Put the steering on full lock in both directions and see if the tryre hits the inner wheel arch anywhere. D series are notorious for tryres rubbing against bodywork. You can adjust the steering lock by loosening the steering rack end cap locknuts and winding the caps in or out.
It's definately not from rubbing. The old tyres used to but they were the wrong size. I'll have to get it on the ramps and check the toe-in. Thanks.
Wear in the steering relay ball joints can cause the wheel to rub on the inner splash guard.
I believe the rubbing is a red herring. The inner tyre rubbing is the result of contact with the splash guards that are at best somewhat inexact in their positioning after all these years. Big sheets of pressed metal with minimal fixings that are 8mm bolts in captive nuts and a couple of speed nuts. IIRC The 8mm headed bolts are the usual Citroen specials ie not readily available because of the thread pitch.
I agree with the suggestion above re the tie rod joints. They can look perfectly centered but .. It will most likely be an inner joint as the wheel end joints don't get the extremes of movement. The joint can look perfectly fine but get sloppy with turning movement load is applied.
I agree with the suggestion above re the tie rod joints. They can look perfectly centered but .. It will most likely be an inner joint as the wheel end joints don't get the extremes of movement. The joint can look perfectly fine but get sloppy with turning movement load is applied.
Well I've got the car up on ramps and it is definately toeing out a little. I can see the RH tyre has scrubbed a bit as well now, but not as bad as the LH one. There's no evidence of fresh rub marks on the bodywork.
Question I have is (and I searched through the forum) I've come up with a 2 to 4 mm toe in figure off another thread on here. However I can't find out where that figure is measured at mentioned, either on here, or online.
I found an excerpt from a CX manual while Googling, and in that image the 2 to 4mm toe measurement is based on the difference between the wheels' pivot point and the leading edge of the tyres. Is a DS the same?
Question I have is (and I searched through the forum) I've come up with a 2 to 4 mm toe in figure off another thread on here. However I can't find out where that figure is measured at mentioned, either on here, or online.
I found an excerpt from a CX manual while Googling, and in that image the 2 to 4mm toe measurement is based on the difference between the wheels' pivot point and the leading edge of the tyres. Is a DS the same?
all toe-in measurements will be at the wheel rim. So if you have fitted different sized wheels, you will need to convert the measurements to degrees in order be accurate.
I purchased one of these. Very fiddly to use, but you can't beat the accuracy.
http://www.trackace.co.uk
here is the chart that comes with the alignment stuff if you wish to convert to degrees.
I purchased one of these. Very fiddly to use, but you can't beat the accuracy.
http://www.trackace.co.uk
here is the chart that comes with the alignment stuff if you wish to convert to degrees.
I had a bit of an epiphany today and remembered the car came with 10 ring binders full of photo copies of factory workshop manuals.
I put them in purgatory in the spare room when I first brought the car home.
Anyhoo after a little bit of shuffling I found the relevant content.
I'll do some fine tuning tomorrow.
I also noticed the 720 ft/lbs torque setting for the pivot bearing lock nuts on the previous page.
I'll need my Weet-Bix if I ever attempt that task.
I put them in purgatory in the spare room when I first brought the car home.
Anyhoo after a little bit of shuffling I found the relevant content.
I'll do some fine tuning tomorrow.
I also noticed the 720 ft/lbs torque setting for the pivot bearing lock nuts on the previous page.
I'll need my Weet-Bix if I ever attempt that task.
Is this the bracket assembly that goes through the firewall that the steering column pokes through too?
No it's down level with the gearbox, and there's a metal bar that goes from the bracket across to the gearbox.
you'd need more than Weet-Bix for that!I also noticed the 720 ft/lbs torque setting for the pivot bearing lock nuts on the previous page.
I'll need my Weet-Bix if I ever attempt that task.
The correct number is a more sensible 1 meter-kilogram, which is a bit over 7 foot-pound (the 7,22). More a yoghurt-and-berries value.
No, It says 980 Nms or 100 m/kilos or 720 ft/lbs.
The first notation also says you can't tighten them to the correct torque on the car without destroying the pivot and linkage.