CX Alternators

[DoubleChevron]

Hi Guys,

has anyone fitted a new alternator to there CX in recent times. I'm wondering about the availability/cost of a newie ... Mines playing up yet again so I figure 140,000miles, 20years of age and lots of salty water is enough to call the existing one history.

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[JohnW]

Hi Guys,

has anyone fitted a new alternator to there CX in recent times. I'm wondering about the availability/cost of a newie ... Mines playing up yet again so I figure 140,000miles, 20years of age and lots of salty water is enough to call the existing one history.

seeya,
Shane L.

New Bosch 120 amp. You'd have to call Chevron Down Under for details as I was away and just don't have time for this myself at present. The alternator did need some modification, which I gather is standard for his tame auto-electrician, but I don't know the details well enough to describe them. Email Geoffrey@chevrondownunder.com
but it might be better to phone 08 9371 0092.

I now finally have enough volts to operate the flashers with the AC on on idle!

Cheers

 

[DoubleChevron]

Thanks John... Hmm, the biggest question ... price :roflmao: :roflmao:

On a CX C-matic they would need to modify the wiring as you have the 100amp alternator with a seperate regulator out infront of the radiator. They would have removed the 6 burnt/toasted wires out to this and fitted an internally regulated & rectified alternator. The CX turbo already has one of those fitted.

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[JohnW]

Thanks John... Hmm, the biggest question ... price :roflmao: :roflmao:

On a CX C-matic they would need to modify the wiring as you have the 100amp alternator with a seperate regulator out infront of the radiator. They would have removed the 6 burnt/toasted wires out to this and fitted an internally regulated & rectified alternator. The CX turbo already has one of those fitted.

seeya,
Shane L.

Hi Shane,

I think it was about $220 for the alternator, plus the costs you'd avoid to make it all work. Not cheap but I have the volts now! And it should last for a while.

I found a new Renault 12 alternator this afternoon, sorting out some things. Output? 40 amps! Doesn't seem much now but once it was a lot - more than a 30 amp generator!!!

You'll be pleased to know that the 16TS's new owner is over the moon and will do the right thing (i.e. not stuff it up!).

Cheers

 

[DoubleChevron]

Hi John,

here we go... Big Plug for these guys:

Chevron Downunder

http://chevrondownunder.com/

Phone 08 93 71 00 92 - Fax 08 93 71 00 95 - Email geoffrey@chevrondownunder.com

Unit 7/24 Wotton Street, Bayswater, Western Australia, 6053

PO Box 206, Bayswater WA 6933


I rang them up and not only did they suggest the options of fitting the universal bosch alternator, they gave me the parts number for the alternator and explained exactly how it needs to be modified to fit. By doing this they did themselves out of a sale. (even though they don't me and have never met me )

So guys, anyone after an alternator, I suggest giving these guys a ring (I won't explain the exact procedure here, as I haven't yet performed it, and they obviously don't want to lose business by giving away there investigations).

Basically they swap the front plate off another bosch alternator (not the one fitted to your car) so the universal will bolt up. I will see if I can make up a simple front mount for the alternator, that way there is no risk to the alternators warranty (due to it being dismantled) and it's then a simple matter for anyone to fit one ... After all it takes not a lot more time to make 10brackets as it takes to make one while your at it.

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[Andre]

Hi Shane,
The alternator will still get pretty hot. I ended up replacing the scoop/shield between it and the exhaust with a larger one of Stainless Steel which doesn't conduct heat as well, so doesn't re - radiate as well. And/or you could arrange an air duct from beside the radiator to blow on the alternator, though this would probably end up sandblasting it, as happens in the GS.
I had to replace all the original rubber insulated cables to the diode pack on mine, when the rubber hardened and fell off. The soldered joints inside the alternator of my previous CX, a 2400 GTI, all melted, going over the Nullarbour in summer. Thank goodness it failed in Perth the night before we were due to return.

Regards, Len.

 

[DoubleChevron]

Hi Len,

You will find most CX C-matics have cremated wiring upto the rectifier (diode pack). The solder terminals will be dead on most of the diodes themselves.

What I've done in the past is buy some universal diodes for the rectifier (bigger buggers you hammer in). You just drill the holes into the alloy so the diodes can be belted in firmly.

New wiring is a necessity, it'll all be cremated. I did try to keep exhaust heat away but wasn't hugely sucessful. As you have found you will need to create a sheild of some sort.

As the CX this alternator is being fitted to is a GTi Turbo, it has a standard internally regulated/rectified 80amp unit already fitted... ie: no external rectifier swinging out behind the grill. It already has heat shields in place as around the wastgate and manifold.

IMO the 100amp alternator with external diode pack (as fitted to aussie C-matics) simply doesn't have the grunt when the engine is idling ... Even when in peak condition, with the radiator fans on, C-matic, air-con & demister fan .... You voltage is wwwwaaaayyy down, and you may even find you struggle to select gears as the voltage is to low to drag the C-matic electro-valve in.

If I was to run a C-matic again, I'd chuck the 100amp/external rectified alternator in the bin and fit the 120amp bosch unit.

I'll let everyone know how this works out once I have the alternator fitted.

regards
Shane L.
PS: Cross your fingers and hope my car starts for me to get home today... She's charging at about 12.2volts ... which means the battery doesn't really charge much ... at all

 

[DoubleChevron]

Hi Guys,

I finally got around to bolting that altnerator on (not someone to leave things to the last second ..... ie: me needing the car to get to work tomorrow morning ).

With the car spinning over at about 1000rpm with :

--ventilation fans howling at full speed
--fog lights on (2 x 50watts)
--High beam on
---2 x 130 watts inner spots
---2 x 100 watts normal high beam
--stereo pumping at high volume

13.2volts at the battery ... revving the motor still has 13.2volts (so that's the regulators setting).... That's bloody amazing, this is exactly what C-matics need so they don't refuse to dis-engage there clutches.

At 800rpm idle with everything on it does drop back to 12.5volts (it really needs that extra 200rpm to punch out the voltage with high loads), however with a C-matic this isn't going to be an issue

The cr@ppy little bracket I made also means you can do away with the (rarely) captive nut on the big alternator bolt. You can easily get your hand in there to screw the nut on... Even the same alternator belt fitted back on. I just made the bracket required with some scrap metal in the shed.

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[JohnW]

Hi Guys,

I finally got around to bolting that altnerator on (not someone to leave things to the last second ..... ie: me needing the car to get to work tomorrow morning ).

With the car spinning over at about 1000rpm with :

--ventilation fans howling at full speed
--fog lights on (2 x 50watts)
--High beam on
---2 x 130 watts inner spots
---2 x 100 watts normal high beam
--stereo pumping at high volume

13.2volts at the battery ... revving the motor still has 13.2volts (so that's the regulators setting).... That's bloody amazing, this is exactly what C-matics need so they don't refuse to dis-engage there clutches.

At 800rpm idle with everything on it does drop back to 12.5volts (it really needs that extra 200rpm to punch out the voltage with high loads), however with a C-matic this isn't going to be an issue

The cr@ppy little bracket I made also means you can do away with the (rarely) captive nut on the big alternator bolt. You can easily get your hand in there to screw the nut on... Even the same alternator belt fitted back on. I just made the bracket required with some scrap metal in the shed.

seeya,
Shane L.

It's not a bad outcome, is it? Does your dash voltmeter ever show in the white? Mine rarely does and I presume it is just the meter (=worry gauge) as the autoelectrician said exactly what you have written.

Cheers

 

[DoubleChevron]

Hi John,

Lets see the CX has ...

--oil pressure
--oil temp
--coolant temp
--oil level
--tacho
--trip computer ......


but .... no charge metre

Seriously though, the regulator is setting the voltage to 13.2Volts (usually you will be closer to 14.2volts).... The guage on your dash will be a voltmetre so will read slightly low at all times. (ie: =< 12volt - No charge, 13volts - Just charging, 14volts --nice high voltmeter, good charging).

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[Alan S]

Shane,

Are you going to drop this into "Common problems and fixes"?

I think it deserves to be in there given the number of times this job has been mentioned in the past.


Alan S

 

[DoubleChevron]

Hi Alan,

yeah I will do a proper writeup, with an explanation of how to update the C-matic wiring.

As always a car is only as reliable as it's mechanic .... I had the coolant level light come on several blocks from home ... The bloody idiot mechanic that works on my car hadn't realise the alternator fan could *just* nudge the lower radiator hose when the car was under load (ie: the engine moving under acceleration).

Now to replace the utterly trashed alternator belt that has big cracks in it (I couldn't change it on the weekend as I didn't get to the shops) and fit a slightly longer one.... Then fit another lower radiator hose ... sigh ....

Oneday I will be able to something on the car just once ... without buggering it up :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:

I keep telling Ang, it's not the car that's unreliable, it's the idiot mechanic that works on it !!:nownow:

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[JohnW]

Hi John,

Lets see the CX has ...

--oil pressure
--oil temp
--coolant temp
--oil level
--tacho
--trip computer ......


but .... no charge metre

Seriously though, the regulator is setting the voltage to 13.2Volts (usually you will be closer to 14.2volts).... The guage on your dash will be a voltmetre so will read slightly low at all times. (ie: =< 12volt - No charge, 13volts - Just charging, 14volts --nice high voltmeter, good charging).

seeya,
Shane L.

Thanks Shane. My curiosity is more about the accuracy of the standard voltmeter on the car - I must hook up a proper one and check the little Jaeger device for myself. They're funny little things internally - real string and sealing wax assembly.

Best wishes for 2006.

 

[DoubleChevron]

The dash meter will be as accurate as the voltage drop in the wiring through the dash (I'm sure you have noticed all the guages move in unison with loads inside the car). ie: blower fans, indicators, stereo etc....

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[JohnW]

The dash meter will be as accurate as the voltage drop in the wiring through the dash (I'm sure you have noticed all the guages move in unison with loads inside the car). ie: blower fans, indicators, stereo etc....

seeya,
Shane L.

Well, series 1 car, only one conventional guage, plus two rotating yellow drums and a clock. But voltage drop in dash? Certainly, and not consistent either. Lights in drum rev counter flicker irregularly, sometimes.....

I've decided it's not worth chasing the reason until something actually stops working.

Cheers