Citroen mechanics on the Central Coast NSW

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C52011

Member
Tadpole
Tadpole
Joined
Jun 4, 2023
Messages
21
Location
Central Coast
Could anyone please recommend a good mechanic on the Central Coast for my C5 Diesel wagon
I've spent money without getting the problem resolved, with further quotes 'guessing'!
 
Hi, I just moved to the Central Coast (NSW) and still have issues with knocking noises
I took it to a mechanic who advertises to service Citroen but I am spending stupid money for no results.
Does anyone know someone on the coast (other then East Coast European & Gosford European car services)
 
To get valid advice you need to tell the experts on this very valuable knowledge sharing asset what model of car you have and give a more detailed description of what the noise is and where it seems to come from and under what circumstances .. otherwise it is a "how long is a piece of string ?" question.
 
Hence my question if anyone knows someone on the Central Coast who may be able to help me with the mechanics
 
I've merged your two threads on the same question. Once is enough please.

I can't suggest a mechanic in your area. Others might be able to.

However, where is the 'knocking' supposedly coming from and what type of C5 is it? C5 2.0 or 2.2 HDi with an 4 speed or 6 speed auto.? Original series hatch, facelift hatch or X7 post-2008? Spheres or coil springs under it? 2.7HDi pr 3.0HDi is an X7 model?
 
Thanks David - my first thread didn't show up and therefore added a new one ..
It's a Diesel wagon - MY2010 C5 X7 2.0 HDi with a 6 speed auto
 
Where is the noise though?

If it's engine related, is this the RHR 2.0 L engine? Letters 6-7-8 of the VIN - in a small window under the windscreen.
 
The most common issue with the X7 suspension is the rear bush of the front lower control arms tearing and/or the small round bush in the bottom of the front upright. The LCA bush will allow the wheel to move back/forth relative to the wheel arch if you move it back/forward. The bottom upright bush failing will cause a knock on braking.
The RH upper engine mount is known to sag and then contacts the body. If the upper and lower torque links break the engine can move about. and you might hear some knocking noises.
Are we talking about any of these issues or something else???
 
According to this local mechanic; I need a new RH "hydraulic shock", and added I have a "RH inner c.v. boot split", leaking hydraulic fluid!
Fixing this would leave me little change from $3K
Yet he didn't pick up on the upper engine mount being part reason of the knocking at low speeds/stopping.
 
David S said:
The most common issue with the X7 suspension is the rear bush of the front lower control arms tearing and/or the small round bush in the bottom of the front upright. The LCA bush will allow the wheel to move back/forth relative to the wheel arch if you move it back/forward. The bottom upright bush failing will cause a knock on braking.
The RH upper engine mount is known to sag and then contacts the body. If the upper and lower torque links break the engine can move about. and you might hear some knocking noises.
Are we talking about any of these issues or something else???
Click to expand...
I recently had the front lower control arm bushes replaced, inclusive the replacement of the front lower control arm itself.
The sounds since this 'repair' are caused by an up & down movement in the uneven road surface, as wel as the known sound of the worn engine mount.
 
A CV boot split is a rego fail, and is common to all front drive cars. Get it fixed to save the CV joint.

The "shock" may have a small leak. Check this with a torch and mirror with the wheel off as it is hidden in the suspension upright. These are expensive if really needed. Lost fluid is replaced from the reservoir. It isn't the same as a shock absorber.

The top mount resists engine and braking torque. It supplies the opposite reaction to force applied to the road. One simple check is to lift the bonnet and drive slowly past an observer. Stamp on the brake (which applies more torque than the engine) and see if the engine rocks. A severe rock might be your knock. Top mount if it's that is an easy fix, and there are after market parts.
 
seasink said:
A CV boot split is a rego fail, and is common to all front drive cars. Get it fixed to save the CV joint.

The "shock" may have a small leak. Check this with a torch and mirror with the wheel off as it is hidden in the suspension upright. These are expensive if really needed. Lost fluid is replaced from the reservoir.

The top mount resists engine and braking torque. It supplies the opposite reaction to force applied to the road. One simple check is to lift the bonnet and drive slowly past an observer. Stamp on the brake (which has more torque than the engine) and see if the engine rocks. A severe rock might be your knock. Top mount if it's that is an easy fix, and there are after market parts.
Click to expand...
Try this in a CX with brand new engine mounts ... and you'll be staggered at the movement :ROFLMAO:
 
seasink said:
A CV boot split is a rego fail, and is common to all front drive cars. Get it fixed to save the CV joint.

The "shock" may have a small leak. Check this with a torch and mirror with the wheel off as it is hidden in the suspension upright. These are expensive if really needed. Lost fluid is replaced from the reservoir. It isn't the same as a shock absorber.

The top mount resists engine and braking torque. It supplies the opposite reaction to force applied to the road. One simple check is to lift the bonnet and drive slowly past an observer. Stamp on the brake (which applies more torque than the engine) and see if the engine rocks. A severe rock might be your knock. Top mount if it's that is an easy fix, and there are after market parts.
Click to expand...
Thanks 'seasink' - I already ordered a new engine mount to minimise one such knocking!
 
DC, You should get some if the mounts aren't rigid. They do compress a bit.
 
I can't see it, so can't tell. The top dogbone one is a common wear-out item. The bottom one is hard to see and test.
 
Is the top of the strut able to move or is it properly held in place by the orange rubber pieces? They do deteriorate and then the top of the strut can turn and might move.
Does it have RHR or RHH in the VIN? The lower torque link is at the back of the block. On RHR you have to remove the driveshaft to replace it but for RHH it is simpler to replace. For RHH the bottom link is not expensive. RHR you would replace a bush.
 
David S said:
Is the top of the strut able to move or is it properly held in place by the orange rubber pieces? They do deteriorate and then the top of the strut can turn and might move.
Does it have RHR or RHH in the VIN? The lower torque link is at the back of the block. On RHR you have to remove the driveshaft to replace it but for RHH it is simpler to replace. For RHH the bottom link is not expensive. RHR you would replace a bush.
Click to expand...
It has RHH in the VIN David - Thank you!
Will have to find a friendly mechanic to work with all your suggestions - thank you all!!
 
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