The info below about the plastic pipes is dodgy. During a 6000km trip to Qld and back the car used about 250ml of LHM per 1000km as the plastic T piece couldn't handle the heat and weeped.
I finally got serious and have sourced and installed a BRASS T piece and joining tails. Below is a pic before it went in the car:
THIS fix has finally nailed it.
ALL the story below relates to the PLASTIC T piece I put in. Method of installing the brass pipe is the same though.
Be wary about doing this - it may be proving to be not as good as I first thought. CK
Further to this - at the recent Tech Day, I got serious and took the T piece out and made sure that every threaded connection on it was tight as possible. You must do this before you put the parts into the car, as I found, it is far too difficult to do it once insitu.
Since that time, I have not had a single drop leak that I can tell.
Came up with a way of replacing some Citroen pipes recently. Credit must go to others in the club who suggested the fix - thanks Bruce, David and others.
After much hunting around, I finally got on to some industrial grade irrigation fittings. They should be available from your nearest good irrigation shop.
For those familiar with the wonderful Citroen moulded hoses, you would know that the replacement hoses are expensive and sometimes difficult or impossible to get. To make matters worse, they don't always hold up well under hot aussie conditions.
Adding these connections to some proper braided rubber hose, gives a great replacement. In the situation I have put this in place for I have used a combination of 1/4" fuel injection hose and 3/8" braided hose. I required this because I had two return lines feeding into a moulded junction that then became a larger return line. The larger return line was at one side of the T joint.
As you will see from the pics, I bought one large T piece and three pipe barb pieces - two of these fit perfectly into the 1/4" pipe and the barb for the 3/8" is a little loose. I used tight cable ties around the 1/4" and a pipe clamp around the 3/8". The trick is to buy the reducing bushes to connect the barb pieces into the T junction. This meant that I could put the larger outgoing pipe at whichever part of the T I wanted. All joints were tightned to "firm" with spanners before fitting in the car.
I have now installed the pipe in the car (XM) and it is providing return from the FDV and the PS rack back to this junction which is mounted on the firewall. The 3/8" pipe then feeds straight back to a nice firm connection on the LHM tank.
The pipe brand is Hanson. (pleez explayn)
All up the job cost:
$30 for the rubber pipes (injection hose was around $15/m)
$11 for the plastic junctions I bought
BTW - ignore the brass elbow in these pics - I didn't use it at all. More for the spares kit!
I hope you find this useful.
I finally got serious and have sourced and installed a BRASS T piece and joining tails. Below is a pic before it went in the car:
THIS fix has finally nailed it.
ALL the story below relates to the PLASTIC T piece I put in. Method of installing the brass pipe is the same though.
Be wary about doing this - it may be proving to be not as good as I first thought. CK
Further to this - at the recent Tech Day, I got serious and took the T piece out and made sure that every threaded connection on it was tight as possible. You must do this before you put the parts into the car, as I found, it is far too difficult to do it once insitu.
Since that time, I have not had a single drop leak that I can tell.
Came up with a way of replacing some Citroen pipes recently. Credit must go to others in the club who suggested the fix - thanks Bruce, David and others.
After much hunting around, I finally got on to some industrial grade irrigation fittings. They should be available from your nearest good irrigation shop.
For those familiar with the wonderful Citroen moulded hoses, you would know that the replacement hoses are expensive and sometimes difficult or impossible to get. To make matters worse, they don't always hold up well under hot aussie conditions.
Adding these connections to some proper braided rubber hose, gives a great replacement. In the situation I have put this in place for I have used a combination of 1/4" fuel injection hose and 3/8" braided hose. I required this because I had two return lines feeding into a moulded junction that then became a larger return line. The larger return line was at one side of the T joint.
As you will see from the pics, I bought one large T piece and three pipe barb pieces - two of these fit perfectly into the 1/4" pipe and the barb for the 3/8" is a little loose. I used tight cable ties around the 1/4" and a pipe clamp around the 3/8". The trick is to buy the reducing bushes to connect the barb pieces into the T junction. This meant that I could put the larger outgoing pipe at whichever part of the T I wanted. All joints were tightned to "firm" with spanners before fitting in the car.
I have now installed the pipe in the car (XM) and it is providing return from the FDV and the PS rack back to this junction which is mounted on the firewall. The 3/8" pipe then feeds straight back to a nice firm connection on the LHM tank.
The pipe brand is Hanson. (pleez explayn)
All up the job cost:
$30 for the rubber pipes (injection hose was around $15/m)
$11 for the plastic junctions I bought
BTW - ignore the brass elbow in these pics - I didn't use it at all. More for the spares kit!
I hope you find this useful.