Changing thermostat housing octopus on 2007 207 GTi.
- Thread starter Andy's first frenchie
- Start date
Straight forward, but time consuming with all the removals.
See, eg, https://www.nomaallim.com/replacing-thermostat-ep6-engine.html
The tricky part is refilling and bleeding. After you have bubble free coolant flowing from the bleed points, close them, Run the engine at 2000 rpm to the second cooling cycle when the fans cut in. Stop the enine, and when it's cool, top up.
See, eg, https://www.nomaallim.com/replacing-thermostat-ep6-engine.html
The tricky part is refilling and bleeding. After you have bubble free coolant flowing from the bleed points, close them, Run the engine at 2000 rpm to the second cooling cycle when the fans cut in. Stop the enine, and when it's cool, top up.
PITA to replace, do the waterpump at the same time and saves you having to repeat in the future. a weekend of lots of swearing.
Just note where the hoses fit, and more importantly how the pipe at the rear connects to the thermostat as only one location to align.
Waterpump replacement need to follow the correct method to release the tensioner, easy once you understand it.
Just note where the hoses fit, and more importantly how the pipe at the rear connects to the thermostat as only one location to align.
Waterpump replacement need to follow the correct method to release the tensioner, easy once you understand it.
Thanking ye once again Seasink. Time consuming is fine.
I'll follow your steps and whatever the link shows
I'll follow your steps and whatever the link shows
Awww... water pump... 
. I've helped replaced a few in my time but they were at the front of North-South engines with lots of clearance and can see everything.
I'll try and find YouTube or instructional sites.
It sprung a leak this morning. Nothing in overflow.
Loosened the bleed screw right next to the thermostat sensor and it still had heaps of coolant. Topped it up with about 1.5L of boiled water (not ideal but no shops nearby work and can't get to them anyways).
I'm reeeealy hoping the bleed screw wasn't done up tight enough as it didn't take much to undo, and it doesn't appear to be leaking when I got home just now.
The leak appears to be coming from the thermo housing because I noticed pooling at the top of gearbox case and when I loosened bleed screw, it flowed out to the same place.
. I've helped replaced a few in my time but they were at the front of North-South engines with lots of clearance and can see everything.I'll try and find YouTube or instructional sites.
It sprung a leak this morning. Nothing in overflow.
Loosened the bleed screw right next to the thermostat sensor and it still had heaps of coolant. Topped it up with about 1.5L of boiled water (not ideal but no shops nearby work and can't get to them anyways).
I'm reeeealy hoping the bleed screw wasn't done up tight enough as it didn't take much to undo, and it doesn't appear to be leaking when I got home just now.
The leak appears to be coming from the thermo housing because I noticed pooling at the top of gearbox case and when I loosened bleed screw, it flowed out to the same place.
Leaky water boxes on early EP engines were a common warranty item, (as were leaky pumps). Most are probably fixed. Look at where the large pipe joins the body for failure. With the integrated thermostat you are up for a new part. You may get P0117 or P0118.
The reference earlier isn't an official site, but a user who seems to have dismantled everything.
For the pump, you work from the wheel arch. I assume you know how to release and remove the friction wheel. If you have cables around the pump set them aside as a unit.
The reference earlier isn't an official site, but a user who seems to have dismantled everything.
For the pump, you work from the wheel arch. I assume you know how to release and remove the friction wheel. If you have cables around the pump set them aside as a unit.
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No codes showed up.
Water Temp gauge was at 90deg during the 25min drive to work, OBDII read 95deg after 5mins parked when I noticed the coolant leak.
I'll have a feel around the housing to ascertain any wetness around the big pipe or anywhere.
Water Temp gauge was at 90deg during the 25min drive to work, OBDII read 95deg after 5mins parked when I noticed the coolant leak.
I'll have a feel around the housing to ascertain any wetness around the big pipe or anywhere.
I was told by Citroen and the supplier of the replacement thermo I did NOT need the additional wiring harness as sensor cable would reach. Well incorrect boy wonder....luckily I had a spare wiring loom and cut and connected an extension. I would assume all early VIN cars need the extension cable??
Our daughters 308 left a puddle on top of the auto and also hard to source the leak