BX 16V overheating

ARCHRIVAL

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Fellow Frogger
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Has anyone come across this problem and hopefully solved it
COOLING FANS DO'NT SWITCH ON TO HIGH IN WARM WEATHER TRAFFIC JAM IDLING SITUATIONS TEMP RISES TO OVER 95-100 AND PANIC LIGHTS COME ON - ACTIVATING A/C INITIATES HIGH FAN SPEED BUT OFTEN BY THIS TIME DOES NOT LOWER TEMP UNTIL MOVING AT SPEED IN TRAFFIC . Is this a sensor or module-relay fault normally and where would the offending items live under the bonnet thanks in antisipation of an answer :confused:
 
BX Fan switch is on outlet of radiator (why I don't know but it is) so if cooling system/radiator is a bit clogged, temp on output might be OK at idle speed and when stopped.

Where fans working at slow speed OK?

Ken W
 
It's a shame the BX16V has the basic radiator thermo switch system like the 205. Even though they share the same engine, the Mi16 has a more advanced, fail safe system, with a sensor below the thermostat.

Pull the wires off the radiator thermo switch and make sure the two speeds work correctly. If so, dip the sensor in boiling water and check with a multimeter.
 
Thanks

YEP fans work on low and sometimes on high . Have ordered new thermo switch today thru Martin Bray and will get the radiator tanks popped of and the core rodded and flushed .I hope that this solves the problem . Does the small control unit bolted next to the radiator top right hand side have anything to do with this switching?
 
Check the part number with Martin.

If it's the FAE brand part number 3785 it is the original which is too high a temp.
The one you need is the 3486 which was originally for the BX Diesel but was used as a modification to prevent this problem in Southern Europe.
I have one of the 3486 in mine and it keeps the engine constantly around the 90 degree mark. The other one allows it to get close to 110 and given the correct set of circumstances, it will overheat if it gets a heat spike which they are prone to doing.


Alan S
 
Hi Alan

Where this dreaded fan switch buggerred if I can find it. is it the three pronged switch on the side of the radiator, just spent 2hours tightenning hose clamps? oh what fun, least it fixed the water leaks.

Terry
 
twm said:
Hi Alan

Where this dreaded fan switch buggerred if I can find it. is it the three pronged switch on the side of the radiator, just spent 2hours tightenning hose clamps? oh what fun, least it fixed the water leaks.

Terry


Yep, that's the one.

Fun things coolant leaks aren't they?

Ask GreenBlood!! :cry: :cry: :cry:


Alan S
 
Alan S said:
Yep, that's the one.

Fun things coolant leaks aren't they?

Ask GreenBlood!! :cry: :cry: :cry:


Alan S


Thanks Alan

What & wher do you ask for to get a FAE 3486, the Cit guys I have spoken too only hve the original?


Coolant leaks .... grrrr. I keep saying I am not taking out an engine just to tighten a hose clamp :cry: :mad:
 
Are any of these characters bothering to check the part number on teh ones they have?
I know a certian Sydney specialist who reckoned I was talking through my :moon: when he ws asked about this, and then proceeded to get one through that had this number on it.
Try Wongy at Auto France (?) at Artamon and if no good there, just order it from GSF in the UK; you'll have it in 5 days without all the drama.


Alan S
 
Alan S said:
Are any of these characters bothering to check the part number on teh ones they have?
I know a certian Sydney specialist who reckoned I was talking through my :moon: when he ws asked about this, and then proceeded to get one through that had this number on it.
Try Wongy at Auto France (?) at Artamon and if no good there, just order it from GSF in the UK; you'll have it in 5 days without all the drama.


Alan S

Thanks again Alan, what would we do without you. The guys seem to say what the... even Wongy did not seem to know what I was talkin about. I will find one if need from GSF.

Ta muchly
suppose I will have to shout you a beer when I come up to brisi?
 
Hi Terry,


I was going to get one of those switches for my 16V aswell. the only place i could get one was from andyspares, so to save some trouble i just went with the standard 8V switch instead, is almost as cool and is readily available at any french car shop.

Dave
 
ARCHRIVAL said:
Has anyone come across this problem and hopefully solved it
COOLING FANS DO'NT SWITCH ON TO HIGH IN WARM WEATHER TRAFFIC JAM IDLING SITUATIONS TEMP RISES TO OVER 95-100 AND PANIC LIGHTS COME ON - ACTIVATING A/C INITIATES HIGH FAN SPEED BUT OFTEN BY THIS TIME DOES NOT LOWER TEMP UNTIL MOVING AT SPEED IN TRAFFIC . Is this a sensor or module-relay fault normally and where would the offending items live under the bonnet thanks in antisipation of an answer :confused:


I've had a similar problem with my 16 valve (fragile little thing that it is...) - but the temp switch looked fairly new and it was the connector that caused the problem. The fans wouldn't come on at high speed until I riggled the connector (it gets filled with coolant if there is a leak and corrodes) . I ended up soldering 10" leads onto the switch, heat shrinking the connections and reterminating the wires using a three way connnector so the coolant wouldn't get in again. I bled the cooling system and tested it all to make sure the fans cut in and out.

All this worked until yesterday when it got a little hot and started spraying coolant over the battery (oh I hate that...). The temp gauge was reading 95-100 and the fans were only running at half speed. I've already reconditioned the head because the head gasket went and I hope that it isn't buggered again. I hope the switch isn't working - or the head gasket has gone again....

To summarise, I think a combination of a new switch AND reterminating the switch wiring is a good bet.

Cheers,

Chris
 
:) Hi Guys

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.

I just tested the system and at 90 the fans cut in on slow :D

Ive been driving around town all day and in stop start traffice - no overheats :D :D

Here is the story

There is a metal pipe (red) that runs froom the bottom drivers side back of the motor to the top off side just beind the PS Pully. The little hose on the top end of it only had the clamp on half way and was not tight. This was causing a leak at high temp from time to time. A little playing and the clamp was re fitted all was well I thought. Bled the system and off I went, but the temp went up to 110 and the gush of coolant from underneath indicated something else amiss. :( :rolleyes:

Further investigation - arnt those mirrors on a stick great - indications showed that the hose on the other end was leaking. As it turned out the clamp was only finger tight if that. So off with the wheel and 2 hours later after cutting one end off an 8mm ring spanner the clamp was finally tight. :D

Off I go again, stop light, temp going up - oh no :( a check of the water and sure enough down it was, hmm must be still leaking, anyway another bleed and more coolant. Intermittant stop light and still high temp.

I left it sit over night and where it is is on a slopw with the nose up. In the morning I bleed the system again and been going all day, now fans work all seems well, no water loss. :D :D

SO the moral seems to be, even if you fix the leaks, you stand a 99% chance that there will be air in the system that will stop the switch from bringing on the fans leading to over heating. Make damm sure that the system is bled and probably a couple of time before all the air is out.

I think Alan has spoken on length about this as well.

Happy motoring.
 
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