Hi Guys
Any words of wisdom on how to get the cable through that rubber gromment on the firewall
Any words of wisdom on how to get the cable through that rubber gromment on the firewall
BX 16v Clutch Cable
- Thread starter twm
- Start date
macquered said:G'day Terry
If it's anything like the speedo cable, I found you have to use a fair dose of brute force and an appropriate amount of vaseline.
Still interesting in comparing 16valves?
Did not have any trouble with the speedo cable, but this looks impossible, vaso seems to be the go but worried about those little plastic bits on the end of the cable. I have thought of making up a little cone to slip over the end to help ease the lot through, not sure if the cable can come come apart or not have not looked at that yet bit probably not.
Yes still interested in the comparision just got a bit snowed under we must set a time.
If it's the one I think you're talking about; remove it from the firewall, fit cable spray the edge of the grummet and the edge it fits into with silicone spray or use silicone grease, then fit it with the cable already sitting in it. That way you tend to slide it aorund and just feed the final bits in using a driver or something similar.....carefully.
Removes all risk on stuffing any fittings on the cable. Be sure the sleeve at the end on the outside of the firewall is properly fitted before you hook it up at the clutch end unless you bear strong ambitions of doing it all again in a couple of weeks.
Alan S
Alan S
Removes all risk on stuffing any fittings on the cable. Be sure the sleeve at the end on the outside of the firewall is properly fitted before you hook it up at the clutch end unless you bear strong ambitions of doing it all again in a couple of weeks.
Alan S
Alan S
RON G said:
Must be I drove mine home clutchless as well.
Did you get that feeeling, ..... dont go red, dont go red, please dont go red, oh damn...
I snapped one as I stopped at the gate. One of the boys got out, opened the gate and as I released the pedal, it just went clunk and I drove straight past him up the paddock and straight into the garage and stalled it.
He was impressed because he thought I was taking the 'iss as he expected a short ride up the yard not a long walk.
Mongrel of a job that I would imagine would be a much simpler task on a LHD car.
Alan S
He was impressed because he thought I was taking the 'iss as he expected a short ride up the yard not a long walk.
Mongrel of a job that I would imagine would be a much simpler task on a LHD car.
Alan S
Alan S said:If it's the one I think you're talking about; remove it from the firewall, fit cable spray the edge of the grummet and the edge it fits into with silicone spray or use silicone grease, then fit it with the cable already sitting in it. That way you tend to slide it aorund and just feed the final bits in using a driver or something similar.....carefully.
Removes all risk on stuffing any fittings on the cable. Be sure the sleeve at the end on the outside of the firewall is properly fitted before you hook it up at the clutch end unless you bear strong ambitions of doing it all again in a couple of weeks.
Alan S
Alan S
Yeah that's exactly how I did it on the Mi16 (I'd imagine it's the same). It would be impossible to clip together the plastic fitting that sits in the middle of that grommet (passing the cable through the firewall) with the grommet still in place. Putting the grommet back with the cable connected was much easier!
Where (on the cable) do they usually snap? I was wondering if a bit of preventative maintenance of the copper grease kind might help. Or are they all cases of the plastic thingy on the pedal end giving up the ghost?
Cheers
Stu
Cheers
Stu
There's a tube arrangement that pokes through the firewall and it seems at the end of that where the cable pokes through and bends is where it seems tosaw its way through.
As I say, in the case of LHD (in which form they were designed) the cable would be about 2/3rds the length and have less twists and turns and so is a much simpler fit and has less things to contend with. In my case, the 'specialist' that used to do the service had thrown the heat shields away and as a result the cable had been cooked directly above the exhaust pipe which had allowed water to get into it, rust to form and created more strain than usual on it, as a result the upward pull when the pedal was depressed caused it to prematurely fail.
Being just mug backyarders, we spent the time to get replacements and refitted them which cured the long term problem.
Alan S
As I say, in the case of LHD (in which form they were designed) the cable would be about 2/3rds the length and have less twists and turns and so is a much simpler fit and has less things to contend with. In my case, the 'specialist' that used to do the service had thrown the heat shields away and as a result the cable had been cooked directly above the exhaust pipe which had allowed water to get into it, rust to form and created more strain than usual on it, as a result the upward pull when the pedal was depressed caused it to prematurely fail.
Being just mug backyarders, we spent the time to get replacements and refitted them which cured the long term problem.
Alan S
Hi all, if your 16v's are the same as mine (uk spec) it's a bit of a b*tch to do. Doing mine was made easier by having the engine on the kitchen table at the time in 20000bits! However, the rubber grommet on mine is secured by 2 8mm bolts that when undone allow the whole thing to be pulled down the cable and give fair access to the back of the pedal. It's maybe easier if the top engine mount is removed and the motor slung forward. Cables tend to snap usually at the pedal box end but occassionally at the gearbox end. Never in anywhere in between! Go figure!
Having a single post lift makes life easier too!
Best of luck.
See ya
Chris G
Having a single post lift makes life easier too!
Best of luck.
See ya
Chris G
