Brake Repairs Brisbane Northside.

W

Webby

New member
Tadpole
Joined
May 4, 2014
Messages
13
Location
Strathpine
'97 306 XSI. I replaced the RHF brake hose & rear pads. Ever since I've had a lousy brake pedal. Bled and rebled. Still feels like air in the system.Got sick of spending a fortune on fluid, so I took it to my mechanic.

Long story short, the master cyl and possibly the booster are allegedly shot, and price is eyewatering. Any recommendations for brake work on Brisbane Nthside?

Thank you in advance. Cheers, Chris.

The reason I don't post much is because it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than open my mouth and remove all doubt! If I knew more about the subject, I'd be more vocal.
 
Webby,
I’ve used StopMasters at Brendale, I have found them quite helpful with stuff for my resto. They were referred to me by a mate who had his 404 master cylinder and booster replaced. Also the resleeving company who did the work on my Hydrovac recommended them. I have no alliance to them, just offering a recommendation. https://www.stopmasters.com.au/
cheers
Dano
 
Webby said:
The reason I don't post much is because it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than open my mouth and remove all doubt! If I knew more about the subject, I'd be more vocal.
Click to expand...
[h=1]Alternatively: “The man who asks a question is a fool for a minute, the man who does not ask is a fool for life.” Not judging, just pointing out there are always at least two viewpoints.[/h]but back on topic:
I'd be looking at a replacement master cylinder from ebay or a wrecker (under $40 with wty here in melbourne). Even with a professional fitting it, not going to break the bank.
 
Chris said:
the master cyl and possibly the booster are allegedly shot
Click to expand...
You need another opinion as both can/should be tested & the hydrovac very easily.
Switch off ignition, pump brake pedal a few times, it should get a little harder, & hold.
Switch on ignition & start the engine the pedal should go down closer to the floor & feel a little softer.
If this happens the booster is working.

One thing to note here is that pump bleeding of a system when old & not new is definitely not recommended & can stuff up an otherwise working/good master cylinder.
1. As the piston primary seals moves/travels over crud in the master cylinder bore & ruin the seal [very possibly the issue here].
2. If the master cylinder has a residual pressure valve [this car probably doesn't] the piston can bottom out & damage same.

Unless new master cylinder is being used one should vacuum or pressure bleed.

Here is a good cheap homemade vacuum bleeder I use. A retired old mechanical fuel pump:
 
Last edited:
Artificer said:
One thing to note here is that pump bleeding of a system when old & not new is definitely not recommended & can stuff up an otherwise working/good master cylinder.
1. As the piston primary seals moves/travels over crud in the master cylinder bore & ruin the seal [very possibly the issue here].
2. If the master cylinder has a residual pressure valve [this car probably doesn't] the piston can bottom out & damage same.

Unless new master cylinder is being used one should vacuum or pressure bleed.
Click to expand...

Although I invested $30 in a vacuum bleeder kit, you can make your own for a couple $ with a cheap spray bottle from coles/woolworths:
https://youtu.be/Af0SYcbzIbo
 
If master cylinder is bad & the primary seal is leaking internally when you pumped the pedal & held to test the hydrovac, the pedal could have gradually sunk right to the floor.
Dual not always but brakes may do strange things, like be good one time & fail/feel soft the next.
If the rear or secondary seal is leaking into the hydrovac brake fluid the fluid will be vacuum drawn to the manifold & you should smell it burning in combustion.
 
Thank you for all your replies. I've used Stopmaster at Brendale for my Buick, and the nearby Stainless steel sleeving mob can do the master cylinder. Going to try the rebuilt master first, and see how it goes. According to my Haines manual, pulling the booster means removing the dash & column. If that is correct, I'd like to punch who ever thought that up in the face. Rant ends.

I was concerned about the piston going over crud/ pitting etc, but since Anne drove it home after the RHF hose failed, I figure any damage was already done.

Once again, thanks from Anne & I.
 
All interesting and some good lessons here!

Mr Artificer, what do you do to stop air leaks sucking past the bleed nipple threads when vacuum bleeding? I seem to get a steady flow of small bubbles and that is the only source I can believe.

We have three Scenics and each has a different pedal feel! But that is a different matter.

Thanks.
 
JohnW said:
What do you do to stop air leaks sucking past the bleed nipple threads when vacuum bleeding? I seem to get a steady flow of small bubbles and that is the only source I can believe.
Click to expand...
You are absolutely correct & that is a very common issue experienced....especially if using small commercial vacuum pullers e.g. mityvac. The old mechanical fuel pump I use pulls big vacuum quickly somewhat alleviating the issue you're experiencing.

There are a couple of ways:
1. First if the bleeder dust caps have been missing in action, the bleeder holes are sometimes full of dirt. That is removed with a drill bit of the correct diameter turned only by hand screwed in to loosen the dirt then blown out
2. wire brush around the outer bleeder screw thread to wheel cylinder or caliper.
3. before loosening the bleeder screw coat around the screw thread to wheel cylinder/caliper with liquid teflon or thick wet paint, maybe even rubber grease will do but I've not tried that.
4. go ahead & bleed.

Don't forget:
1. Always keep refilling the master cylinder when bleeding
2. many vehicles can be gravity bled when the master cylinder is above the wheel or caliper cylinders
3. always bleed longest line to shortest

Gravity bleeding may solve the issue with 3 similar vehicles have different pedal feel plus some FR vehicles, in particular, have issues with balance & calipers retracting properly e.g. the older Peugeot 406 I owned in the 1990's.
 
Artificer said:
You are absolutely correct & that is a very common issue experienced....especially if using small commercial vacuum pullers e.g. mityvac. The old mechanical fuel pump I use pulls big vacuum quickly somewhat alleviating the issue you're experiencing.

There are a couple of ways:
1. First if the bleeder dust caps have been missing in action, the bleeder holes are sometimes full of dirt. That is removed with a drill bit of the correct diameter turned only by hand screwed in to loosen the dirt then blown out
2. wire brush around the outer bleeder screw thread to wheel cylinder or caliper.
3. before loosening the bleeder screw coat around the screw thread to wheel cylinder/caliper with liquid teflon or thick wet paint, maybe even rubber grease will do but I've not tried that.
4. go ahead & bleed.

Don't forget:
1. Always keep refilling the master cylinder when bleeding
2. many vehicles can be gravity bled when the master cylinder is above the wheel or caliper cylinders
3. always bleed longest line to shortest

Gravity bleeding may solve the issue with 3 similar vehicles have different pedal feel plus some FR vehicles, in particular, have issues with balance & calipers retracting properly e.g. the older Peugeot 406 I owned in the 1990's.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that advice - in my case I'd use a silicone grease. I was curious whether the problem I'd had was common. I've used silicone brake fluid on the old Renaults for a very long time with excellent results. All is kept sweet and clean in the bleeder department.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top