Brake line materials, manufacturing, flaring, hydrovacs & handy tools. Edited & some new material

RINGER

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Some of this may possibly have been raised before ~ but this is meant as a refresher:

Beware 10mm x 1mm & 3/8" x 24TPI flare nut threads are similar looking & sometimes seem to fit, but 3/8" thread in metric will be loose & the 10mm won't go in the 3/8". NEVER SUBSTITUTE ONE FOR THE OTHER.

1. Brake lines should only be made with steel or stainless 'bundy' tube or my favourite Kunifer [cupro nickel] ~ NOT copper pipe, that is illegal to use in AU NZ & other places. Single flare should not be used anywhere in a brake system.
types_of_brake_line_flares.jpg
Illustration purloined from web
Note the difference in the DIN mushroom flare nut has no taper on the inside.

2. Proper cupro nickel is branded through the length of the tube [I get mine from the UK] & it is more expensive than steel.
Used as OEM by many EU marks including Volvo
Kunifer markings.jpg

3. Plenty of stuff on Epay is listed as cupronickel & it is not, some is copper coated steel other is copper & that is a no, no.

4. There are also plenty of cheap TORA VH44KIT that are copies of the PBR 1960's & 70's hydrovac brake booster. They have a smaller diameter drum/diaphragm size & provide ~820PSI Boost. They can be bought for as little as $75, do a good job with drum brakes. Be aware the provided hardware kit comes with the wrong type of fully threaded flare nuts. If fitted these nuts will always leak even with the correct tube ball flare.
One needs the silver type 3/8" UNF 24 TPI on the right with non threaded lead ~ the Gold one on the (corrected) LEFT in picture 2 is with the kit, has no non threaded lead & is wrong for this application:
brake-line-ftg2.jpg20210805_095158.jpg
SAE Bubble or ball flare is needed for these VH type hydrovacs.
Never use SAE double flare on either end of these type boosters or metric threaded flare nuts!

5. Then there is the very reliable PBR VH40 @ about $500, if one can buy one. For disc brakes they generate 1470PSI assist.
Better Brakes in Southport had about 1/2 a dozen yesterday, when I went there to get the correct flare nuts.

6. Having had many flaring tools over the years ~ this one is very EZ to use, even in situ & a ripper:
s-l1600.jpg

 
Last edited:
Some of this may possibly have been raised before ~ but this is meant as a refresher:

Beware 10mm x 1mm & 3/8" x 24TPI flare nut threads are similar looking & sometimes seem to fit, but 3/8" thread in metric will be loose & the 10mm won't go in the 3/8". NEVER SUBSTITUTE ONE FOR THE OTHER.

1. Brake lines should only be made with steel or stainless 'bundy' tube or my favourite Kunifer [cupro nickel] ~ NOT copper pipe, that is illegal to use in AU NZ & other places. Single flare should not be used anywhere in a brake system.
types_of_brake_line_flares.jpg
Illustration purloined from web
Note the difference in the DIN mushroom flare nut has no taper on the inside.

2. Proper cupro nickel is branded through the length of the tube [I get mine from the UK] & it is more expensive than steel.
Used as OEM by many EU marks including Volvo
Kunifer markings.jpg

3. Plenty of stuff on Epay is listed as cupronickel & it is not, some is copper coated steel other is copper & that is a no, no.

4. There are also plenty of cheap TORA VH44KIT that are copies of the PBR 1960's & 70's hydrovac brake booster. They have a smaller diameter drum/diaphragm size & provide ~820PSI Boost. They can be bought for as little as $75, do a good job with drum brakes. Be aware the provided hardware kit comes with the wrong type of fully threaded flare nuts. If fitted these nuts will always leak even with the correct tube ball flare.
One needs the silver type 3/8" UNF 24 TPI on the right with non threaded lead ~ the Gold one on the right in picture 2 is with the kit, has no non threaded lead & is wrong for this application:
brake-line-ftg2.jpg20210805_095158.jpg
SAE Bubble or ball flare is needed for these VH type hydrovacs.
Never use SAE double flare on either end of these type boosters or metric threaded flare nuts!

5. Then there is the very reliable PBR VH40 @ about $500, if one can buy one. For disc brakes they generate 1470PSI assist.
Better Brakes in Southport had about 1/2 a dozen yesterday, when I went there to get the correct flare nuts.

6. Having had many flaring tools over the years ~ this one is very EZ to use, even in situ & a ripper:
View attachment 135189

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Useful, thanks.
 
Correction: the GOLD one on the left in figure 2
 
Ringer, you are a legend. I am converting a 203 from 404 brakes to 505 brakes and have discovered the different tubenut sizes 3/8 UNF and 10mm*1mm. Will need to do an adaption if I keep the 404 plumbing.

thanks for posting this.
 
BTT: New material
Found this & it fits into stuff folk might be seeking on brakes ~
 
Not sure why I would need to read what is primarily common sense, to a practising tradesman, if that was the inference.
Just trying to help others learning.
 
I have just been skimming through that document.
Overall, it appears to be intended to set out requirements, test procedures etc for manufacturers.
It does not appear to be specific about braking system elements, and particularly nothing about, say, materials or procedures for rejuvenating brake lines.

Unless I have missed something...
 
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