Boden's 405 Mi16 Rescue

Tackled the problem today, I mixed up a bit of JB Weld and applied it to the end of the steam pipe, after giving the pipe and thermostat housing a good scuff with some 120 grit sandpaper to give the JB weld something to bite into. Stuck it into the thermostat housing and gave it a few gentle love taps with a deadblow and block of wood to make sure it was fully seated. Going to leave it overnight to cure and come back to it tomorrow afternoon, see if it holds up. if it does, great, if it doesn't, I'll be drilling and tapping it, and putting a threaded fitting in there. Also need to wash the engine bay down now to remove all that sprayed and dried coolant residue. Good to see the ASA distributor cap seal can resist a direct spray of hot engine coolant though!
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Good work on the bleed barb. I've kept them in with Loctite 620 retaining compound previously. What did you think of the cam & chip upgrade?
 
PeterT said:
Good work on the bleed barb. I've kept them in with Loctite 620 retaining compound previously. What did you think of the cam & chip upgrade?
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Love it, the car has a great powerband with it, it picks up steam very rapidly as you cross ~3500rpm and keeps pulling all the way up to the limiter, if anything it feels like it wants to keep going past the limiter haha. Also gives off a nice little crackle when rev matching downshifts too.
 
And the limiter is at 7500 now?
 
It certainly sounds like it, I haven't stared at the tacho while winding it out so I'd have to check :p
 
Anyone had any trouble with these engines pressurising the cooling system at revs above 7000? I have a problem with my 309 rally car in that it uses coolant, I have pressure tested it and checked or changed everything I can think of. Does seem to be at high revs so thinking of setting the rev limiter (Megasquirt ECU) back to 7100 standard. Need to get this sorted before next March when I hope the NSW border is open so the Classic Outback Trial can go ahead. At the moment can't get any testing of any kind done, not allowed to even see the car!!
 
This is amazing stuff, cannot wait to get the Mi16 into my 205 now.
 
BodenM said:
Love it, the car has a great powerband with it, it picks up steam very rapidly as you cross ~3500rpm and keeps pulling all the way up to the limiter, if anything it feels like it wants to keep going past the limiter haha. Also gives off a nice little crackle when rev matching downshifts too.
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An awesome feeling. I remember my first rip in second gear after installing Peter's Stage 1 Cam and Bathurst spec chip (on 10.8:1 CR).

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speaksgeek said:
Have you considered adding a coolant pressure sensor? That way you can log it and try to figure out the issue. From your description it sounds a bit like a head gasket weakness at high cylinder pressures, maybe the head is lifting?
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Everything has been rebuilt since the problem started, gasket, liner seals etc. Been having trouble pretty well since the start of last year, runs fine but you need to keep topping up during an event. Even had a new coolant bottle. Spent $800 on a special radiator but no better than the Chinese one.
 
Are you getting any steam from the exhaust or contamination in the oil? Or can you see any leak? Is the filler cap new?
 
No steam, no leaks in pressure test, new cap, nothing in oil. Everything has been totally apart and back together. Maybe a crack in the block that only appears when it is hot? On the rally in July it used a full bottle an a tight twisty 10 km stage but did a 26 km stage with only half gone, this was a faster stage using 3rd 4th and 5th.
 
Luckily I have a spare motor ready to install, built that during our first Covid lockdown! Special 1.6 205 project finished with many weeks to go in the current lock down. Presently scanning heaps of old rally documentation for the new rallypedia website which will be launched soon.
 
Seems you have covered most bases. There must be something visible to lose that much! Maybe start a new thread in technical for a wider audience 🙂
 
The starter that was on its way out finally conked out totally the other day, luckily I had already bought a later type starter from an XU10 406 to replace the old big body style starter, so I put that in last night, works a treat and I no longer have to second guess if the car will start, or carry a hammer and screwdriver to whack the solenoid with :mallet:
Intake manifold off first, way easier to get to the starter from above in an Mi16 than below :p
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The size difference between the new and old starters is hilarious, despite the new one being higher torque and higher speed
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New one fitted with a quick bit of wiring work to swap the spade terminal from the starter relay to a ring terminal
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PeterT said:
It's definitely easier to check it in 4th. It takes a bit longer to get there.:LOL:
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Finally got the time to check, if the tacho can be trusted it appears to hit limiter at around 7100-7200rpm
 
And for ultimate reliability do the relay on the starter mod, to save your key switch. Update starter with new brushes and solenoid and grease the gear. All cheap. and easy to do, Like your work, doing just the same to a xu10.
 
Matthew said:
And for ultimate reliability do the relay on the starter mod, to save your key switch. Update starter with new brushes and solenoid and grease the gear. All cheap. and easy to do, Like your work, doing just the same to a xu10.
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Yes, you can fit another relay up in the black box on the RH strut top. Then run the three wires down to the starter solenoid. Pick up an earth in/near the box.
 
Matthew said:
And for ultimate reliability do the relay on the starter mod, to save your key switch. Update starter with new brushes and solenoid and grease the gear. All cheap. and easy to do, Like your work, doing just the same to a xu10.
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PeterT said:
Yes, you can fit another relay up in the black box on the RH strut top. Then run the three wires down to the starter solenoid. Pick up an earth in/near the box.
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Previous owner has already done that to the car, no need for me to do it :p
 
Anyone know BodenM?

He had this car for sale on gumtree.

I contacted him and we found a price we were both seemed happy with. I asked if he was willing to run a compression test - while I was sorting out car transport to Orange from Brisbane. He was.

Took him a while to get numbers back, I replied straight after he did to orange pick up-time and payment. But never heard back. Then noticed the car was taken off gumtree. Multiple emails, no reply, but that may be due to them going via a gum tree server.

So I tried to contact on here too, but nothing.

Can understand if he decided he really didn't want to sell, or maybe someone else came in and offered more. But maybe he took it off gumtree ready for me to buy, but doing so also stopped our line of communication.

Hoping he doesn't think I just dropped out. Tried to figure it out but eventually gave up. Been a month or more now.

Thought, maybe a post here was worth a shot.
 
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