Boden's 405 Mi16 Rescue

BodenM

Member
Tadpole
Joined
Apr 15, 2019
Messages
30
Location
Brisbane
Hi all,

Over the last few months during my coronavirus-induced unemployment I've been in the process of fixing up a '92 405 Mi16. I figured many of you would enjoy seeing the details behind this so I'll be documenting the work I've done so far, and the work to be done in the future.

It first started off back in early May, when I spotted a sad looking Mi16 in need of a home on Gumtree. The owner was moving overseas, and needed to sell the car. A quick back and forth over Gumtree, a price was agreed on, and a few days, a border permit, and a hired trailer later, I was on my way down to Tweed Heads, where the car was parked in a shed in a storage facility. We pushed the car out, where it saw daylight for the first time in over a year.
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The car was in fairly decent shape cosmetically, other than a whopping big dent in the front left guard, a sun-abused plastidipped black roof, and the paint being in desperate need of a correction. No clear coat peel, which was a bonus though! However, on the mechanical side, the car needed a lot of TLC. The owner reported a timing belt that was flapping against the timing case, oil leaks from various places in the engine bay, and a cactus battery. Money was exchanged (with a bunch of spare parts and a hard copy of the Haynes manual thrown in), the car was pushed onto the trailer (hooking the middle muffler on the edge of the trailer in the process, crumpling it a bit and cracking the weld :mallet:), and we were back on the road, Brisbane-bound.
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Upon getting it home (and surprising my parents with yet another broken car), I threw the battery on a charger for a laugh to see if it could be revived. It looked good for the first hour or so, where the battery looked like it would accept a charge. Just after the 1hr mark though, the battery started getting real hot and smoking, so any hopes of reviving that battery were immediately dashed, and it was placed in the cluster of scrap batteries in the corner of the garage (after being left outside overnight to cool down). The following day, I ducked down to the local battery shop and bought a new battery for it, threw it in plus a splash of fresh fuel, and after a bit of cranking......
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It lives again! The starter motor was definitely not a happy chappy though, it took a fair bit of cranking before it started turning over at full speed. At this point, I wasted no time getting it into the garage and giving it a proper once-over before pulling it apart.
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It didn't look too bad from a quick surface level inspection, the distinctive sheen of leaked oil was visible all over the bottom of the sump and the subframe. After doing some research, it was decided that I also wanted to throw in a reground cam and redo all of the exterior oil seals on the engine, so it was now an engine out job. I wasted no time getting the front of the car on stands, and started unhooking things, and before you know it:
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The engine was hanging off the crane and well on its way to being out of the car. After much wiggling and crane adjusting later, the engine was totally out of the car and waiting for its examination
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As you can see, the motor and gearbox were absolutely FILTHY. This car had been leaking fluids from basically every orifice, for a fairly long while. Basically everything below the rocker covers was coated in a greasy mixture of oil, ATF, gearbox fluid and even CV grease. Time to crack out the neat degreaser and a pressure washer for an initial washdown......

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Ahh, there we go, much better. Still not perfect, but far far better than it was before. (continued in next post due to max. 10 images per post)
 
The engine bay was looking very lonely (and very greasy) with no engine in it.
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A mate of mine bought two Phase 2 405 SRDT wagons, one of them had Ph2 Mi16 wheels on it with barely used tyres so I bought them to replace the ugly rattlecanned 306 wheels with utterly shagged RE002s that came on the car.
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I also picked up a skidplate off one of the cars, real beefy thing, at least half a cm thick aluminium. Perfect for keeping the very expensive and very vulnerable alloy Mi16 sump safe from road hazards.
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Back to the engine, got the cam covers off, everything looking alright in there:
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Got the intake cam out without too much drama, except I the rotor button flange was stuck to the end of the cam by rust, so the cam was packaged up and sent off to Peter T for regrinding with the flange attached and distributor seal floating around on the end of the cam.
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With the intake cam in the mail, and FedEx taking their sweet ass time getting a delivery of parts from Spoox to me, it was time for a proper deep cleaning of the engine and gearbox. First things first, seperating the engine and gearbox, and getting the engine on the stand and the wiring harness off:
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With that out of the way, the cleaning could begin.
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After a mixture of undiluted degreaser, aluminium cleaner and elbow grease, I had a gearbox and engine as clean as the day it left the factory.
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(continued in next post)
 
Nice write up. Cant see any of your photos this end..
 
Love it - great to see you people taking the time to bring these back from the dead. Bloody awesome cars. Keen to follow progress. Love the colour!
 
Love the cleaning job you did on the engine. Well worth the time and effort.
 
Excellent work. It's great to see one being saved.
 
Nice write up. Cant see any of your photos this end..
I can see all the photos up to sending the cam to Peter T for re-grinding.
If I right click on the failed images, and open in new tab they show up. I think it's some forum fault.
Love it - great to see you people taking the time to bring these back from the dead. Bloody awesome cars. Keen to follow progress. Love the colour!
Love the cleaning job you did on the engine. Well worth the time and effort.
Excellent work. It's great to see one being saved.
Thanks guys! Yeah I have noticed the issue with photos, I think it's just a forum issue because if I refresh the page, the photos that are working change, some that worked before stop working and some that didn't start working.

Anyway, picking up from where we left off, a few days later a big box of parts from Spoox arrived from the UK with some tasty parts (as well as stuff that's hard to get locally), like an aluminium serpentine belt pulley, silicone oil breather hoses to replace the utterly rooted factory ones, and a short-shifter for the BE3 gearbox, plus a variety of seals and other bits and bobs.
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All excited, I went downstairs and started checking out the oil breather hose kit, only to realise I'd been sent a 205 GTi kit instead of the Mi16 kit!
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An email was sent off to Spoox, and while that email back and forth was taking place, things stalled for a little while while I waited for parts to arrive. A few weeks after that, a nice little package came back from Peter T with my freshly reground cam and EEPROM.
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Cue almost another month of waiting for Australia Post to return my breather hoses to the UK, then I finally got word that the correct breather hoses were in the mail, so it was time to pull the car back into the garage and crack on with getting it back together.
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Starting off with the small jobs, I got the new EEPROM installed into the ECU, dead easy job, it took more time to get the casing open than to install the chip.
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Got the water bypass pipe deleted, using an 8v XU lower water distribution housing (p/n 1336.H7, can be purchased locally from Run Auto Parts for $11 at time of writing), also fitted a new lower heater hose and water pump.
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It was time to reinstall the intake cam into the engine, so in it went, everything coated in a healthy dose of assembly lube, wouldn't want to take the nose off of a nice new cam.
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Not all was meant to be however, as I went to start torquing the cam bridge bolts down to their final spec, the bolt suddenly got loose. Bad thoughts immediately began to run through my head, as I pulled out half of a bolt from the hole. I started undoing all the cam bridge bolts, and after getting the offending cam bridge off, I was greatly relieved to discover the bolt had not snapped flush or below the surface of the head, and was in fact sticking about 5mm proud, so I was able to grab a pair of flat nosed pliers and (CAREFULLY) back the remaining part of the bolt out of its hole. Upon examining the remaining 23 bolts, they all showed signs of necking around the midsection of the bolt, indicating that (given that these bolts are not TTY) the last ham fisted gorilla who worked on this head overtightened the hell out of these bolts to the point that they had stretched. With an exasperated sigh, it was off to the local nut and bolt specialist to purchase 24 grade 12.9 M6x1 bolts and washers, because I sure as hell wasn't waiting for OEM Peugeot items nor was I willing to pay the huge price for them. Got them all in and torqued down to 10Nm with no problems, time will tell if this will cause any issues but I doubt it will.
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Once that was done, I proceeded to carefully clean the oil spray bars, replace the old o-rings that were totally rock hard and reinstall. Do note if you ever work on an Mi16 head, these spray bars are specific to the Mi16 head, and are not available from Peugeot, if you break any of the little plastic nipples you'll be up the proverbial creek without a paddle.
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Once that was done, it was time to tap in the new front and rear camshaft seals, and front main seal.
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(continued in next post)
 
Nice car, you'll love it. Unusual colour too, maybe it's worth saving that too.

Those plastic oil pipe connectors are the same for 205 cars, so that's a source in case you need some, but you need to slide them off the pipe and slide them on your pipe. Not easy to do, you need to clean the pipe perfectly and even then some of them will break because the plastic is aged. Most often one of the little wings that hold the o-ring breaks. I have managed to make a good set of oil lines because I had a few spare engines to pillage, but in my head I was making plans to machine those fittings from brass and silver solder them next time I am in there. It's not hard, just a pain in the dorongo.

I see you have a freshly ground intake camshaft. Did you reface the lifters? Check clearance? Adjust shimming?
 
Nice car, you'll love it. Unusual colour too, maybe it's worth saving that too.

Those plastic oil pipe connectors are the same for 205 cars, so that's a source in case you need some, but you need to slide them off the pipe and slide them on your pipe. Not easy to do, you need to clean the pipe perfectly and even then some of them will break because the plastic is aged. Most often one of the little wings that hold the o-ring breaks. I have managed to make a good set of oil lines because I had a few spare engines to pillage, but in my head I was making plans to machine those fittings from brass and silver solder them next time I am in there. It's not hard, just a pain in the dorongo.

I see you have a freshly ground intake camshaft. Did you reface the lifters? Check clearance? Adjust shimming?
I did check the lifters, they had a perfect mirror like finish on the top surface so I suspect they had been reground not too long ago, I considered it unnecessary. the XU9J4 head is shimless as well due to the hydraulic lifters, so no need to check clearances or adjust shims

Took a quick break to duck over to the local Fulcrum and got them to press the old rear torque bush out of the rear engine mount/halfshaft bracket and press in the Spoox Group N item.
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With the rest of the head work out of the way, it was time to get the engine retimed and the new SKF timing belt and tensioners installed. When I installed the cam I was careful to get it as close to the timing pin position as possible to minimise any chance of valve-piston contact or valve-valve contact when setting up the timing. I also installed the Spoox aluminium lower pulley and timing cover spools. Got it all installed, eyeballed the tension, spun it over by hand a few times and it was good to go, I got lucky and got the tension spot on the first time, and was able to easily insert and remove all 3 timing pins with minimal effort.
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With all the timing work out of the way, it was time for the timing belt cover and rocker cover (with new edge gasket, spark plug tube seals and center bolt hole seals) to go back on, and the motor was starting to look like a complete engine again. Still need to try and find a replacement rocker cover though, the aging and damage on mine is too great to repair easily.
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Tending to more ancilleries, I removed the water bypass pipe from the thermostat housing before tapping it with a 1/2" NPT tap and threading in a matching plug (with plenty of Loctite thread sealant). Begone, swollen and leaky rubber elbows. The whole shebang was then refitted to the engine with a healthy coating of RTV sealing it up. Given the location and how many hoses come off it the last thing I wanted was for it to start leaking coolant down into the flywheel and starter area and needing to be removed and resealed.
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The next day, I was greeted bright and early by the FedEx driver, with a delivery from the UK. The correct 405 Mi16 oil breather system hoses had finally arrived, and it was time to gleefully bin the crusty old hoses on the breathers and idle air valve in favour of the shiny new silicone ones.
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(continued in next post)
 
With the engine nearing completion it was time to start focusing attention on other parts of the car, namely the engine bay, which was in desperate need of a thorough degreasing and scrubbing, in the hopes that when working from underneath I wouldn't reach up and pull back an arm covered in a greasy mixture of dirt, oil, ATF and CV grease.
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I replaced the very crusty driver's side engine mount buffers with some new items:
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The wiring harness was also in need of repairs, particularly around the back of the engine where the leaking rocker cover and camshaft seals, and leaking PS pump fitting had been coating this poor piece of harness in fluids for years, to the point where the harness was barely holding together by a thread. Someone had previously attempted to patch the harness back together as well, not particularly well, but an attempt was definitely made.
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I completely cut off the damaged wires about 15cm back up the harness, and re-extended the harness with new wires and crimped on new connectors, then put some loom tubing on it to keep the wires neat and tidy.
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I also replaced the unused oil pressure sensor on the front of the block with an aftermarket item for use with an oil pressure gauge - an important item on any Mi16 that you plan to drive in anger lest you spin the bottom end bearings - or worse.
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Got the engine hung off the engine crane, meaning it was time to replace the rear main seal and refit the flywheel, clutch and wiring harness.
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After all that, the engine was ready to receive the gearbox again, at which point I also replaced both output seals and fitted the quickshifter
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Took the time to fit the King Springs lowering springs on Sachs shocks that came with the car, as well as replacing the ball joints and fitting 306 polyurethane control arm bushes and P bushes from Powerflex. (this is a pretty straight forward modification, just need to cut the front bush and crush tube down so it sits flush in the narrower control arm bushing hole, and the rear bush is a direct bolt-on).
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(continued in next post)
 
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With all the little jobs being done, it was finally time for the engine to go back in! Always much easier going back in than coming out :p
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With the engine back in, most of the hard work was done at this point, it was mostly a matter of getting the exhaust refitted, axles fitted, hoses reconnected and engine harness plugged into the chassis harness, which was all fine and dandy until I accidentally connected the engine harness ground to battery positive. Oops. Luckily the only damage was this grounding wire for the brake pad wear sensors, which I wasn't too concerned about anyway. Wrapped it up in electrical tape where the insulation was a bit melty.
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While working out the little bits and pieces, I remembered the small rubber ball on the L-pivot part of the shifter assembly was worn down and causing a very sloppy fore-aft action on the shifter. As a "temporary" solution I applied grease to one side of a piece of silicone intake piping joiner and RTV to the other, and jammed it behind the pivot ball. Eventually I will need to replace this part but until I can source a replacement this will do for the time being. I also found that I can't actually use the short shifter because the fixed ball joint the shifter linkage attaches to in order to constraint the shift rod movements actually sits in the way of where the shifter rod would have to go to actually fit onto it. Unfortunately Miles at Pug Racing has not yet restocked his 405 gear rods either, so until that happens I'm stuck using the stock shifter arm location (unless someone knows of a solution for using the quick shifter on a 405 without adjustable gear rods)
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It was time to start the car for the first time and start bleeding the coolant. I refilled the fluid in the gearbox, filled the oil and coolant in the engine, hit the starter while crossing my fingers, and eventually it coughed and spluttered into life before eventually settling into a smooth idle.
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I also decided to design and 3D print a pod filter adapter that was better than the off the shelf alternatives, this one has a smooth transition from the 3" inlet to the ~55x55mm or so airflow sensor inlet. Printed it from PLA for now but will be reprinting from ASA as PLA will not stand up to the heat of the engine bay for too long. If you want your own I have uploaded the model to Thingiverse, you can find the details here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4581991
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And with all that, the car was finally back on all 4 wheels, running, registered and driving!
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Quick trip to the exhaust shop to fix the exhaust I had to cut (thank you previous owner's exhaust shop for making the exhaust all one piece from the front pipe to the rear muffler :mallet: ) and it was ready to rip!

This pretty much brings the thread up to date with where the car is currently, I'm pretty much just driving it at the moment to shake out any teething issues that will arise while I put my *other* project car together (because nothing says smart like having two 30yo project cars at the same time right?). Have a quick pic from the other night hanging out with a friend and his immaculate AE82 Corolla Twin Cam:
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Awesome work. Well done. Engine was out last night in bits when I was reading and commenting and now its on the road within 12hr after a sleep!! Sounds awesome
 
Inspirational, nice work indeed. Love the sound the engine makes and cannot help but think that with a be3 box the gear linkages / connectors must be interchangeable and you can goto a more standard arrangement?
 
Inspirational, nice work indeed. Love the sound the engine makes and cannot help but think that with a be3 box the gear linkages / connectors must be interchangeable and you can goto a more standard arrangement?
not quite, the location of the gearbox in relation to the primary shifter rod is different in a 405 to other BE3 cars, so the rods themselves are different lengths.
 
OK, mine goes into a 205 so a little different to yours.
 
Awesome to see this thing back on the road -- love this colour.
 
When a solution to a problem doesn't readily exist - create your own.

The dizzy cap spacer/seal/doohickey on 1.9 Mi16s and BX 16vs is notoriously fragile and after 30yrs+ of exposure to heat, oil, ATF and potentially coolant, most of them are now ready to crumble at a moment's notice, which is exactly what mine did and started letting the distributor cap bolts back themselves out. New replacements are either difficult to find, or prohibitively expensive, and have to come from overseas as well, and in the time of human malware that means potentially weeks of waiting. I'm an impatient bastard, so that was out of the question. So what I've gone and done is start iterating on a 3D model of that piece and testing it on my own car. I'll make this model freely available once it is ready, should be some time in the next few weeks. In the mean time, I'm running this test piece on my car printed from ASA (for the 3D printing nerds among you the exact filament is FormFutura ApolloX), it should hold up to the heat and what not just fine. I'm hoping to end up with a result that is as close to 1:1 as possible to the original part, given I don't actually have an intact one to copy directly.

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got one here somewhere your welcome to! Your CAD skills are impressive too.
 
Not content with being a running car, tonight on my way home the Mi16 decided to pop the steam/bleed pipe out of the thermostat housing and piss coolant all over the engine bay. Great. Anyone happen to know offhand how big the hole is? Tempted to tap it to 1/8" or 1/4" NPT and thread in a fitting, if I don't just JB Weld the original pipe back in.
 
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