Bentleigh East's most practical 307 wagon

This is the deep cycle output point in the center console. Again significant modification was required under the plate to make it fit. It's in the position of the coin holder. Deep cycle voltage on the right (engine was running when this was taken) and dual USB charger on the left under the rubber cap. So 2 charges in the rear a d 2 in the front. Again, these are incredibly handy. So simple but so handy. Specifically chose red for the front one as it's easier to see at night. Especially when the rear is set up as bed mode cause it's too cold outside (bendigo at 1am) to set up the swag and you are trying to plug your phone in to charge the dahm thing....

(experience)
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Brilliant, not sure swmbo would like to do this on hers though. Needs USB charging desperately though.
 
Wonderful craftsmanship.............. but why? Must be a little cramped compared to a Landcruiser??????? :confused:

I can think of three reasons for the Pug over larger vehicle

1/ Cost, hard to find $400 Landcruisers
2/ Fuel cost
3/ Must be much nicer to drive


I agree with the craftsmanship comment 100%
 
Wonderful craftsmanship.............. but why? Must be a little cramped compared to a Landcruiser??????? :confused:
I also have a Prado 150. 13l/100km versus 6l/100km. Plus the prado doesn't fit in underground car parks. Plus it's just me.

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I think this is brilliant. Excellent work.

I kind of want to see it with a subtle lift and some hybrid A/T tyres fitted like Cooper SRX or AT3 or similar. Mostly just for the visual appeal...
 
I also have a Prado 150. 13l/100km versus 6l/100km. Plus the prado doesn't fit in underground car parks. Plus it's just me.

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I'm amazed you can get that sort of ecomony from a prado .... have they started making them in deisel :confused:
 
Next step was wiring up to the main battery. I have installed a REDARC isolator, which has been installed in the plastic cubbyhole behind the rear seats in the floor. It's running a separate earth which is not visible. The power line then runs under the trim and down the LH side of the car just below the kick panels. There is a separate 60amp fuse inline along this line and it is placed in a readily accessible spot - under the LHF kick panel.
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Next step was wiring up to the main battery. I have installed a REDARC isolator, which has been installed in the plastic cubbyhole behind the rear seats in the floor. It's running a separate earth which is not visible. The power lime then runs under the trim and down the RH side of the car just below the kick panels. There is a separate 60amp fuse inline along this line and it is placed in a readily accessible spot - under the LHF kick panel.
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60amp fuse holder but fuse and wires not installed in this pic. The fuse older has it's own little cover so very very unlikely that it will short out.

The power cable then runs under the carpet and through the fire wall. I passed 14 separate wires through this same hole for future items that i may want to connect, then sealed it. Didn't want any fumes or moisture getting in. Pretty sure it's now the most water proof part of the entire car....
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LED light bar. This gets its power from the aux battery and is controlled via a relay mounted behind the back seats. It is switched by the high beams, inline with a switch mounted in the roof console. There are 2 spare switches in the console for use later if I add some other gizmo... I can also switch this light bar on via a switch in the back however it is currently not connected while I am preparing to install some more lights in the load area. Roof lining also removed 15 mins ago. It's a bit saggy after 455'550km and is being redone next week in black cloth. It's given me a god chance to properly route the UHF aerial along the inside of the roof. Winning.
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So I'm standing around after work one afternoon supervising an apprentice to make sure he didn't drop his car on his head. I'm looking at my bumper and back to the top of my toolbox where there has been an N5 front badge stuck to the top for about 5 years. Ah screw it... I reckon I can make this work. An hour later, a LOT of cutting with a air hacksaw and massaging with a die grinder and it's in. Completely different mounts. Looks great from a distance but up close it's a bit rough lol.
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At some stage I upgraded the low beams to LED units along with every T10 globe in the car. Even The indicator globes were upgraded. Again, Ali express. Now like I said there is a lot of crap on there but the products from the store CN360 are top notch. Min 1 year warranty on all of their stuff. Been using them for over 18months and never had a failure. Then I found audi style side indicators (where the light chases??) So i bought them. +2 street cred points. There are in a clear lense however I have done a few cosmetic upgrades over the last 3 weeks so I have a black set on order. The LED low beam globes are fantastic. Great visibility especially when wet. Mine are 6000k, anything higher I've found to be great to look at but useless as a form of lighting up the road in front of you (I do a lot of driving at night....) I have not upgraded the high beams yet as the light bar kinda surpasses it. However with 3 return trips to Brisbane scheduled over the next 13 months they will be changed out along with a pair of HID pencil beam spotties chucked on the roof rack. Maybe.
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Sound system. Sound system is currently going through some changes. There is a pioneer powered sub under the LH front seat, covered in underfloor insulation to muffle it down a bit. There are soumd stream 6.5 splits in both front doors. Until 2 hours ago there were 6.5 two-way soundstream speakers in the rear doors but they have now been changed out for a pair of JBL units (found the soundstream units to be to harsh up high). There is an amp under the RHF seat but I have never wired it up as there is no current need.... The speaker mounts needed to be made from scratch for all doors to fit the larger speakers. Apart from the tweeters being fit Into the front doors (dashmat was muffling the factor tweeter location), it all looks stock. Head units great, however not hooked up to comms unit and the lack of a volume knob is frustrating (touch screen only Until I remove the unit again and wire up the steering controls - Not currently on my priority list....). I'm sitting in my car at work (monitoring an idling car for work) listening to brass band music on Spotify while charging my phone via the aux battery usb charger. Oh yeah, the two front poverty pack seats were removed, thrown in the bin and replaced with a pair of T6 XSE buckets. MUCH more comfortable. They are the ones with the pattern that looks a bit like chef pants....
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Everyone needs a UHF. I often take this beast camping (this car has been places I don't think the designer ever thought it would go...) and my mate usually gets to the spot a day or so early. Usually have a fair idea of where but it's often in the middle of no where with no reception so after constantly using the handheld I ended up getting a cheapo UHF. Will be swapping it out for a GME soonish as this one isn't the greatest ever made... Again powered via aux battery and aerial goes up the RH a pillar, along the roof and out the tailgate to the back of the roof rack. Also in that picture there is a FM signal booster. Does it work? Yes, just. Was it worth it? Nah.
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That one time I got stuck and had to be dragged out by a 79 series... man I was removing chunks of dried mud out of the subframe for months !!!!
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I have always wanted to add an intercooler to this car. I had already worked out what main parts I would need out of a 406. And then about 3 months ago, a mate gave me his old 406 HDi. Hello. The poor pug needed so much work that i decided to use it as my donor car. (If anyone needs a 406 HDi in red with a trashed body and interior and 300'000km I have a free car in my back yard. It's missing some intercooler bits...). I took the manifold elbow joint, dozer, lower pipe, upper pipe and intercooler. On the 307 the turbo feeds straight into the inlet manifold though a selection of pipes and manifolds. I took these off and binned them. I found that the turbo on the 406 is slightly different to the 307. The angle of the boost discharge is different so I sourced a silicone pipe locally in Melbourne with a slight angle change. Shoved that onto the turbo and slid the pipe that runs under the engine on the 406 into the silicone pipe. It fits....kinda. I've reposition this pipe 3 times now. Basically very Friday night I Chuck it on a hoist and check/adjust it. I am probably going to have to get a custom lower pipe made up that fits properly. I have made up some crude brackets for which I have purposely not taken pictures of to hold plastic pipe in place as I had to cut off the original mounts allow intercooler pipe to slide on after shortening the plastic pipe (307 engine bay is smaller). The radiator support bar had to be massaged to prevent rubbing. Mind you it has been hit and bent many times before I got my hands on it... The plastic radiator/condensor/cooling fan assembly had to then be cut out to allow the intercooler. In time this will be replaced by a late T5 version that has been fitted with the DW10BTED engine, so the intercooler sits properly. In the end I did get the Intercooler to fit properly. It required a lot of adjustment to get the 406 top boost pipe to fit around air filter box without rubbing. Interestingly I did order in that pipe from the UK from a factory intercooler version of my car, but the 406 pipe ended up fitting better, although it was also shortened to fit nicely. 406 dozer is the bolted to the aluminium elbow joint which then goes and bolts perfectly to the inlet manifold/EGR pipe, completing the circuit. The above photos are from 5 different days.... It's taken a lot of fiddling and adjusting and although it's now reliable, I'm still not happy with it.

Has it it made a difference? Yep.

No difference to acceleration but my gawd you can definitely feel the increase in torque. Fully loaded up this car would struggle to maintain 100km/hr up a hill, usually slowing down to 80km/hr (even after replacing the airflow meter which was stuffed). Now fully loaded with air con on and tested in 38 degree heat, it will slowly ACCELERATE up the same hills from 100km/hr. In 5th.

Consumption has also dropped. You need to remember that i have a chunky roof rack on top. It makes a difference. Was averaging 8l/100km combined and about 7l/100km on free way. The last 200km since I've filled up has been metro driving with one 20km freeway trip. It's sitting at 7.6l/100km. I can easily get 5.5L/100km on freeways at 100 with a/c off....

Really happy with this mod. Oh there is also a green cotton filter fitted. It's been there for the last 15'000km.
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So my mate bought a T5 307 CC sport for the engine and gearbox. To swap into his 207 1.4.... so I bought some bits off the CC for my car. The steering wheel and airbag where upgraded, along with the pedals. The clutch and brake covers just unbolt and bolt onto mine however the accelerator pedal needed to be changed over. Kinda of handy as the old one had a dodgy track that gave me issues at really annoying times. The cluster was switched over. All works fine, but need to look into the oil temp output in the cluster. Haven't looked in depth at wiring yet. I've learnt to ignore that constant flashing. And finally the Interior self dimming mirror was changed over. I had to disassemble both mirrors, then drill out the mirror base of my original mirror to accept the wiring for the CC mirror. It looks pretty stock, and now that the roof lining is out I can wire it in this weekend. Oh and I took the wheels too. I have a prado now so this just gets used for freeway work. I take the prado if I'm going bush. So it's fitted with the 17s off the CC. Definitely notice the slightly harsher ride. Upside is that it isn't as skittish as it was. With the gloss black mirror caps and the big wheels and intercooler it's now the sports edition haha.

Then I looked at the wheels, looked at the mirror caps and then gazed at my leftover plasti dip cans from when I used to own young Cavanaughs 406 SV......
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Roughly 5 coats of gunmetal grey then roughly 8 coats of grey metaliser. And black wheel bolt caps that are fitted to most new pugs. I also got a set of T6 rear lights, these improved the look of the car DRAMATICALLY. At the same time I upgraded the front indicator globes to a LED version. I had to wire in a resistor block on each loom to prevent the double flash.
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So i have a $400 car. So when my fridge kept over heating to to the heat I went and got professional ceramic window tinting installed. Retail is around $850. Man, the difference that it has made in the car is astonishing. That insanely hot day last week I had my a/c on fan speed 1. Worth. Every. Dollar.

Plus how awesome does it look. Not bad for nearly half a million km.

And a proper few pics of how it looks normally.

And that's where this build is currently up to.
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