Bentleigh East's most practical 307 wagon

young 4 old pug

Active member
Fellow Frogger
Joined
Jan 3, 2005
Messages
895
Location
Melbourne NSW
It's been a while...

Collection has changed again, currently have 16 pugs and sitting around my 40th or so... Changing career as well so needed a cheap practical car that i could live out of for a weekend if required. After 6 months of searching I found my base car. A late T5 DW10 for $400 out of NSW. After purchasing it drove it out to dads (north of albury) to replace starter motor, alternator, alt belt and tensioner on his front lawn them drove it back to Melbourne. Once back at work did normal 307 things like inner track rods, timing belt kit, crank pulley, major service, rear shockers, brakes and a new comm unit. Got a RWC and rego'd it.

Then the real fun started...

Ordered A $460 double din Radio out of one of my favourite ali-express stores (there are some quality suppliers if you know where to look) plus another $1500 out of 4WD Supercenter. Also grabbed a set of low profile roof cross bars from Repco and a IP67 multipin surface mount connector.

Then I cut a hole in the roof. (As you do).
 
Looks wierd compared to how it looks now.
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Anyway...

The hole.

So i cut a 27mm hole in the roof just to the left of the aerial mounting plate on the inside roof skin for the SM connection. I positioned it here due to strength offered and it also allowed room for the wiring to be routed without undue tension in the headlining "dome" near the rear interior light. 4 teeny holes then marked, checked and drilled out for the 4 itty bitty screws washers and nuts. Applied a small bead of silicone sealant that PSA recommend for instant gaskets (comes in a wonderful resealable trigger type compressed cylinder) and installed the plug socket. I then soldered wires to the plug bit and installed it into the socket bit.

Why on earth am I passing a 9 wire harness through the roof you ask? We'll get there... (this hole was drilled 10 months ago...)
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4WD Supercenter. Great stuff if you look after it and they deliver it to you.

So i got a 3/4 length roof rack, solar panel, solar regulator and a LED light bar. I also got a side awning and rear drawers but more on that later.

Actually before we progress further I must point out that there are 3 stages to the wiring in this car. Stage one is installed and safe but messy. Stage two is same as stage one but more complete strands of wire (less joins). Stage 3 is completely new scratch built harnesses once I have decided the location of every section, connection, routing etc Of that harness (I keep adding things..). Currently the car consists of stages two and three. Most of these photos are stage one.

I dummy fit the rack on the car to work out where wiring needed to be to not chaffe and also be able to reach everything. Once I was happy with that, the roof rack came off and went onto a 2 post hoist so I could work on both sides. Solar was installed and get was installed. Wiring to LED light bar was routed but light bar not installed. Harness was trimmed, insulated and soldered to the 7 way waterproof plug and then lowered onto the 307 room racks.
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At this stage my drawers had not arrived and I was due in bendigo for training that weekend. The wiring from the socket was routed above headlining and down the rear D pillar trim, out through the access panel and to a temporary 12V battery. This then had a fused 12 V socket coming off it (taken out of an RX4 wreck years ago) that my fridge plugged into. Secured the battery, secured the fridge, chucked the swag on the roof and drove out to bendigo for the weekend. (It was easter last year).
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First test, worked a treat. Especially once i remebered to pull out the awning horizontal polls...(why is this thing so floppy???!!!???) Stayed at a caravan park just incase something went wrong (it didnt). Was also the last time I stayed at a caravan park with this beast of a car.
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Ah yes, i installed this womderful device a few weeks prior as well. Double din, has everything you could want (No reverse camera as it's not really required when reversing a box on wheels).

Favourite app on screen while testing out the WiFi connection.
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DRAWERS ARRIVED!!!

These are again from 4WD SS. I got the measurements of the different fourbies that these are made for and cut out templates from cardboard to work out which ones would fit best in the back of the pug. In the end I went for the 2 drawer set up for a prado 120, which gave me about 30mm depth clearance and around 4mm either side. They did however require substantial modification to make them fit and then even more for my requirements that I'll go into later on.

The front bracket (front being drawer handles, so rear of car) had to be moved rear wards to allow access to the spare wheel winch. It then also needed to be trimmed with a 10mm recess. I could have moved the front bracket further back but the next set of holes would have made in questionable in its stability. The rear bracket was moved slightly forwards to allow solid mounting to the floor, As the 307 wagon have a plastic cubby hole right behind the seats. Fantastic for towbar stuff storage but a nightmare for bolting down a large heavy projectile.... It is however, as I found out later, a fantastic place for electrical devices to be mounted discreetly. The front frame of the drawers then sit on the metal striker trim.

Spare wheel winch was now obscured by a big set of drawers. I removed the top surface of the fridge slide and removed the LH drawer. I then measured the location of the access hole. The top plastic cover was removed and discarded. The position didn't line up with an accessible point on the fridge slider or the drawer. I also wanted to keep it hidden so measured the spot, drilled the hole, found it to be wrong so drilled another hole.... Then enlarged the correct hole with a hole saw. Measured out hole location on fridge slide, checked it 3 times.and drilled a hole, checked it again them enlarged it with a hole saw. Voila. All lined up but hidden. To access spare wheel now, the fridge has to be moved to the right hand side, pull drawer out 10cm and pull liner reawards, slide out fridge slider 30cm to line up all holes. Use 17mm socket and extension. The hole In fridge slider is usually hidden by the fridge. I have since found a plug to put there when fridge is not fitted.
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With the drawers in and positioned it was then time to fit the wings. Again, like I came to find out all through this process With everything else, everything has required considerable modification to make it work. (I recently fitted an intercooler from a 406HDi and I'm still tweaking and adjusting that every weekend to make it perfect. More on that later...) The wings requires a lot of cutting of the supports and drilling of the frames to match the wheel arches. Each time was cut, eyeball, cut, eyeball, bolt on, refit drawers, check, remove drawers, unbolt, cut etc. I also had to remove a fair amount of the moulded plastic carpet liner (?) That goes from the floor over the wheel guards and under the black trim. Once that was done on either side it was much easier to make the front wing mounts fit as it appears that a 307 rear opening wider than a prado 120. Then cardboard templates were made of the surface area of the top sides and these were then cut from.the supplied wings, which give you two tidy storage areas where those two bungee pockets are on a stock 307 wagon. I use the LH cubbyhole for fridge power cables and spare usb cables (I have many usb outlets connected to the deep cycle battery. More on that later) and the RH cubbyhole is full of bungee cords and ratchet straps.

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Deep cycle battery.

Now modern peugeots aren't renowned for having spare usable space under the bonnet. Actually let me rephrase that. Modern Peugeots are not renowned for having any space under the bonnet.... From day 1 was always going to have a dual battery setup, and by day 1.5 I realised that the darn thing could only go in the boot. So i got myself a nice Big Deep cycle once I knew that i wasn't really restricted for space as it would be under the drawers. I removed the RH drawer and stripped it down to metal. Measured battery and made up template to determine positioning at rear of drawers. The battery ended up being narrower than the inside width of the drawers. Now these drawers run on a series of roller bearings bolted to the drawer frame with a piece of box section welded along the side of the drawer. I'm not explaining this set up very well.... I will be removing the drawers again in a few weeks to do a light upgrade so I'll take better photos then. Basically as this box section on the side of the drawer us wider than the battery, I was able to leave them stock standard. After measuring out the drawer I then cut a large section out of the RH drawer and then bent up th floor to make the back of the bow complete. Threw the battery in for a test fit and shoved the drawer back in, with some more adjustments and trimming I was able to get the clearance that i required. Basically the RH drawer is shorter than the LH drawer, which is fine , as it is permanently filled with basic camping kit. (Mil spec hennessy hammock, hennessy 4seasons insulation kit, foldup chair, pegs, hammer, poncho and tarp, spare gas bottles, basic utensil kit, bog roll etc). The rear drawer mount required extensive modification. The center section was cut out and eventually replaced with a flat brace that runs under the battery. The battery is clamped the the floor and for extra security there is a section of MDF between the top of the battery and underside of the top of the drawer frame and again another section of MDF between the back of the battery and the end of the modified drawer. There is also a chunky earth wire going down under the floor to a new earth point. Again, don't under estimate how much fiddling around this all takes lol.
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Here is a good pic of one of the trial fits. Battery is in with pre-MDF spacer (hello old pallet) and you can see the shortened drawer. From here there was a power cable that looped down through the plastic cavity mentioned earlier and into what I now use as the electrics bay. Like I said, this is dual battery set up. Solar is fed into the deep cycle battery, and when the engine is running the REDARC battery isolator kicks out and feeds the alternator output into the deep cycle. Now being the inquisitive person that i am, I wanted to monitor this, and I also wanted a better fridge power outlet than a dodgy AF looking setup using an RX4 aux socket!

Time for gadgetry and a fuse box :)
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This is a nice $100 fuse board from NARVA. This I the power distribution out of the Deep cycle. Everything comes out of here. Even The LED light bar is switched via relay off this source as I sometimes use it out in the bush for camp lighting. Slightly overkill but spreads a lot of light around. I found a 2 and 4 part power output board from Ali. The 4 way is in the boot on the LH side and the 2 way is in the center console.

The 4 way consists of dual USB charger, Digitial voltmeter, 12V socket and a switch. Since I have so many spare outputs on the fuse board, each one of these 4 has it's own separate fuse. Same with the 2 in the console. One dual USB charger and one Digital voltmeter. You don't realise how great it is to have 4 constant USB chargers on seemingly unlimited power until you drive a car that doesn't charge your devices when you are not in the car...
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So this is the black trim on the LH side.of the boot that the parcel shelf sits on. Due to the spare wheel winch debarkle, I have sinced managed to not cok up a hole. Yay. 4 holes measured and then the bracket screwed into place, then the 4 different gizmos offered into position. A stage 2 harness made up and routed ready to plug in.
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Installed but no power. The amount of people who see this and ask "is that standard cause mine doesnt have it" makes me know I've done an alright job.

This also shows The drawer wing mounts a little clearer - this is the LH side.
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Slightly blury but you get the idea. Left to right is 12V constant dual USB charger (also light up green under the rubber lid. Great for charging iPad overnight tucked into the LH drawer), 12V voltmeter (Again only hooked up to deep cycle), 12V socket for fridge, simple toggle switch (will be used for load area lights that are going in in the next few weeks). Great quality on these, they haven't melted, fallen out, fallen apart or broken. $25 delivered from Ali.
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This is all you see if you fold down the LH rear seat back. Most of the lower outputs are now used.
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