Another R17 owner planning to upgrade

[Bowie]

Ah always wondered why that valve mattered.

Assumed the system was just balanced with the master cylinder sizes.

Are mechanical anti lock systems like this for emergency conditions common?

 

[COL]

These valves are coupled to the rear suspension and vary the braking effort depending on the load in the rear. There is a correct method to set these regulator valves as the linkage is adjustable.

From memory there is a 3 port and 4 port version depending on year and model.

Dismantling the valve cleaning and reinstalling it should be fine, as long as it don't leak.

If it does leak you can get a spare off Ebay.

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I bought some new old stock a few years back, I dismantled the valve washed the old rubber grease out as it had gone hard and re-lubed with some fresh rubber grease.

 

[Shoji]

Helps with the turn in on front wheel drive

5Door, Haven't done that yet, but keen

 

[Shoji]

Are they the same as R12? If so

Remdrukverdeler voor Renault 12.

Remdrukverdeler voor Renault 12, R15, R17. Onderdeelnummer: 7700685456. Klik op de foto voor afbeeldingen uit het P.R. boek.

www.renault12shop.com

I think mine might be jammed as it’s the only part of the system I didn’t touch and I’m getting the rears lock first on a hard stop. Certainly helps turn in!!

The part certainly is a bitch to get a part, but simple in terms of parts to free up.

 

[Shoji]

If the brake controller is like the one my car it works like this. It's a device to the rear brake lines. It has a tube angled down at the front and a ball bearing in it. Under normal, even hard braking the fluid transfer to the rears is unimpaired. Under emergency braking with a huge shock of fluid movement the ball bearing is forced up the tube and blocks fluid going to the rear brakes so they can't lock and you spin out.

Hi Tim, different to mine. No ball check. It's a small shaft levered to the mid suspension arm that once under load the lever pushes the piston to another spot and regulates the amount of fluid.

 

[Shoji]

These valves are coupled to the rear suspension and vary the braking effort depending on the load in the rear. There is a correct method to set these regulator valves as the linkage is adjustable.

From memory there is a 3 port and 4 port version depending on year and model.

Dismantling the valve cleaning and reinstalling it should be fine, as long as it don't leak.

If it does leak you can get a spare off Ebay.

Bendix 631476 311476b Brake Power Regulator for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Bendix 631476 311476b Brake Power Regulator at the best online prices at eBay!

www.ebay.com.au

I bought some new old stock a few years back, I dismantled the valve washed the old rubber grease out as it had gone hard and re-lubed with some fresh rubber grease.

As Col said

 

[Shoji]

Ah always wondered why that valve mattered.

Assumed the system was just balanced with the master cylinder sizes.

Are mechanical anti lock systems like this for emergency conditions common?

The little piston just meters the fluid from what I understand. Controlled to to give desired function.

 

[Sunroof]

Mine leaked fluid. I had some new seals made. They are very small but similar in shape to a normal oil seal. I got 5 at the time and I think I damaged 3 before I got one back in. They have to push through a very small hole. Cannot remember the size.

 

[Jensen]

Thanks Col. I bought that one on eBay. Same number of inlet/outlets as on my car.

 

[COL]

Thanks Col. I bought that one on eBay. Same number of inlet/outlets as on my car.

I bought a couple about 4 or 5 years ago because mine was leaking, just make sure that it hasn't been sitting on the shelf for years and the rubber grease has dried up. They are fairly easy to pull apart, wash out the old grease with metho and re-lube with with some fresh rubber grease

 

[Shoji]

I was about to take these rear springs down to the powder coaters. I've taken the tubing off to find the lower sections are well rusty. Probably 20% steel is gone. Water just sits inside the tubing and rusts. Someone here mentioned they used early commodore springs some time back.
Anyone have a good set? Or other ideas?

 

[schlitzaugen]

Rear R12 will fit, including wagon (which will raise the rear a bit, or you could cut them down to the same length).

 

[JohnW]

Most of that rust is on the non-working part of the spring. It's ugly but does it really matter? Ring David Cavanagh for a spring. I'd leave the plastic off too..... Good grief.

 

[Shoji]

Most of that rust is on the non-working part of the spring. It's ugly but does it really matter? Ring David Cavanagh for a spring. I'd leave the plastic off too..... Good grief.

Good idea John. Both to calling David and plastic idea. I figure if there is 20% metal missing then we have 20% more bounce. And dangerous.

 

[JohnW]

Good idea John. Both to calling David and plastic idea. I figure if there is 20% metal missing then we have 20% more bounce. And dangerous.

Not exactly. 20% missing on the least significant coil leads to more squish of the length with missing metal, so overall it will be ever so slightly firmer not more bounce. I reckon. Anyway, you've had it like that for years I imagine.....

 

[Shoji]

Not exactly. 20% missing on the least significant coil leads to more squish of the length with missing metal, so overall it will be ever so slightly firmer not more bounce. I reckon. Anyway, you've had it like that for years I imagine.....

Your right about squish

 

[Shoji]

A little painting after real work today with good stuff paint.
Big difference to the area just forward. The area between here and the engine bay still to do but will be the easiest. Bit by bit.

 

[Shoji]

Tried a bit of painting at lunch time. Will need two coats of the epoxy to cover the grey primer The paint is close to the original colour. And to note, the outside body paint is Ford blood orange and not original. Last owner had that done.

Programing a 123ignition

Programing a 123ignition

123ignitionusa.com

 

[JohnW]

Tried a bit of painting at lunch time. Will need two coats of the epoxy to cover the grey primer The paint is close to the original colour. And to note, the outside body paint is Ford blood orange and not original. Last owner had that done.

http://[URL]https://123ignitionusa.com/123ignition-lessons/

[/URL]

View attachment 123301

Wow, looks just great! Personally, I reckon the colour is just fine for the era. Nice work John.

 

[Shoji]

Wow, looks just great! Personally, I reckon the colour is just fine for the era. Nice work John.

Thanks John, right about the colour and period correctness. But when I painted the engine bay I thought keep it original colour. Plus the code is stamped under there, so it seems a shame to to mask it, gone forever.